Nick Jones

Don't think so. It's quite difficult to tell if there is play as with the hub fully home, it's inner end is (or should be) an interference fit on the unsplined shoulder section of the shaft, so you won't feel any backlash, though you may get a pronounced click or clack from the offending corner when going from forward to reverse and vice versa. To confuse matters they sometimes click without undoing your hub nut! You can check the backlash with hub removed just enough to get it off the shoulder - use a bar across the stubs to get a bit more leverage, I don't think hand pressure on the hub diameter alone is enough. The other thing to check which I should have mentioned before is that you have the correct thick, hardened washer under the nut? Nick

It’s probably telling you that the splines are knackered in the hub flange or on the shaft. It’s the relative movement between them that is undoing the nut. New nut plus loctite might hold it and is worth a try, but I have my doubts. Nick

Yep, that’s the one. I’m not using it my new Blackline Torsten diff though, that’s got a fully synthetic GL5 in it. Yet to be autobahn proven...... Nick.

Been using the Redline shockproof in my Vitesse for about 15 years. It’s blood red..... and stays that colour even after hooning up and down the autobahns, unlike the stuff I used before which would go black and lumpy after one trip.... It is expensive but not as expensive as a diff.... Nick

Yes, it’ll be fine. I’ve been using it in my Vitesse for decades. It’s a Toyota gearbox 🤫, but I’ve used it in Triumph gearboxes too with good results. Nick

Fixed but on the little rubber bushes that like to turn to dust or goo Nick

Same trick with ATF might not be so daft...... Some sludge in the bottom of an old, well-used engine is pretty much inevitable. Lots of semi-modern VAG cars have known issues with it and blockage of the oil pickup strainer...... which leads to bad things..... Nick

GT6 took us out yesterday (maybe 40 miles) and me to work today, which is about the same. Gave it the 1000 mile oil change yesterday too. Nick

20%? I’d say that’ll make a noticeable difference and the stronger spring will give a richer mix, explaining your plug colour imbalance, though the jet heights are the same. Nick

On the later cars, the ones with 1000tpm speedos the calibration was set by the drive gear..... and Dolly 1500s had 3.89 diffs..... Nick

You can buy genuine Girling at Merlin Motorsport, Demon Tweaks, Raceparts etc. Start around £75 Trouble with the NOS stuff now is that it is nOs. That is old..... and the rubber seals have a finite life. Nick

As already mentioned the 1500 single rail box is actually stronger than than the original 3 rail Vitesse/GT6 box in a couple of key areas, so no cause for great alarm. Gearing shouldn’t be too bad provided you stick with the original 3.63 diff, though first will be a bit short.

This!

This - so much easier to get the joint apart if the tubes haven't been deformed by a U-clamp Nick

I do like mikalor clamps, but the short operating range does make getting the right one tricky, especially when using on hoses where a certain amount of squish is called for. Tend to keep them for exhausts and even then get two sizes to hedge my bets.... Nick

Question complicated by at least two different crank pulley diameters and different diameter pulleys on alternators...... I know that the belt on my Vitesse has no chance of fitting my GT6 and vice versa. Nick

Indeed..... it does say all that on the container.... Also always add powder to water, not water to powder and start with cold water, it will get plenty hot on its own. Nick

Impressively crusty!😮 Caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) available as powder for drain cleaning is very effective against fossilised hydrocarbons but won’t eat the steel tank. It might eat solder/braze and definitely will eat aluminium though. It’s what I used to clean my PI saloon tank and GT6 tank. Nick

Torque is what kills gearboxes. So anything 2.5 will challenge the original Triumph offering which is marginal for the 2L. Yes, it’s a nice box when in good fettle with a sweet change and nice ratios, but not strong enough. There some things that can be done to improve matters to some extent with a bit of parts-bin raiding, but the other problem now is that there are very few NOS parts left, the repro parts mostly a bit dubious and the used parts in circulation have been circulating for a long time..... In my experience, opening any 6 cylinder, small-chassis gearbox will reveal significant wear and or damage. Mainshaft tip, layshaft, inside of laygear cluster..... chunks off reverse gear, worn synchro hubs.... I dismantled three plus an 1850 single rail in an effort to gather enough parts for one decent working box and still had to cough up for a new mainshaft and have some machining done. The end result is a gearbox with the big mainshaft tip that actually works pretty well, just a bit noisier than I would like and an OD which is very slow to engage in spite of being fully stripped, cleaned and reassembled with new seals. A disappointment after significant effort and expense. This box is now surplus to requirements...... Ian has already linked to my MX5 box conversion thread on Sideways Tech forum. It’s in, it works, I’m using the car...... however there are several very good reasons why this is not a common conversion as you will see if you read the thread. I have no idea whether this is the first/only one. I understand Vitesse Transmissions in Hinckley are working on a conversion kit for the GT6/Vitesse based on the Mazda MX5 NC to add to their existing range, but I don’t think they are there yet. If they can come up with one that is DIY fit-able by anyone competent to change a clutch (say), they will have done really well IMO. Modified MX5 NA box in situ And with the unmodified tunnel cover fitted Possible? Yes. Easy? Hell no! Nick

Alloy water pump housing is a reasonable weight saving and right up front. Likewise the radiator. I wouldn’t bother with end plates. The front is too small for worthwhile saving and the rear can bend even in steel form. Nick

They will! Try ‘em!

It’s getting harder to find non-resistive plugs, especially multi-electrode, as the vast majority of the national fleet now requires them. I’m not sure what the problem is supposed to be using them on the conventional ignition systems.... The other potential issue using multi-electrode plugs with conventional ignition is they will come gapped for high-energy ignitions and ideally need the gaps shutting down a bit. Or fitting electronic ignition. Bosch non-resistive triple W7DTC As above but resistive WR7DTC Both the above getting harder to find now, especially non-resistive The easy to find ones are the WR78 which are quad electrode and resistive. I have set working just fine in my GT6 with points ignition...... They’ve proved pretty fouling resistant too as that engine had a real oil problem until the rings seated. Nick

+1 for multi-electrode. Been using them for decades. Triumphs love them. Bosch are my favourite. Nick

I’d use some form of lock ‘n seal fluid. Nick

As Pete says, I think you have it timed to no 4 not no 1. Nick