Nick Jones

Mann 714/2 3/4" thread. Check Compact. Check internal NRV flap. Check (two in fact) internal relief valve. check (1.5 bar pop-off) https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Oil Filter/W 714~2 Work for me. Nick

Yeah, EGR on petrol engines brings actual efficiency benefits, with lesser contamination drawbacks. On diesels though, knocking the NOx down is the only gain, at the expense of reduced overall efficiency, increased CO2, fewer mpg, greater particulates output, and that’s before the additional effects of the engine being choked with soot kicks in. Pity engine management systems from about 2002 onwards are smart enough to see when the EGR cycle has been, err, reduced.

It has been my consistent observation, after a chance discovery many years ago, that these old Triumph engines really like the multi-electrode plugs, originally triples (Bosch W7DTC or WR7DTC), but these days more often quad are easier to find. My theory is that it is the side-electrode nature of these, which exposes the spark to the combustion chamber differently to conventional plugs, that is the key feature and the number of electrodes is actually irrelevant - though the multi-electrodes do last a very long time, which is their main intention. It's also been my observation that everyone who actually tries them, notices a difference for the better. As Richard notes, one potential problem area is gap. The multi-electrode plugs do come with a larger gap out of the box, purely because they are sold for cars with high voltage ignitions. If you are using any kind of electronic ignition with a sports coil, this will likely be fine, though there is some added risk of finding weakness in your HT system (leads, cap, rotor arm). For conventional points ignition the gap will be too large. The plugs can be re-gapped though it's trickier that conventional plugs and you use tube or wire gauges, not feeler blades. It is possible to get triple electrode NGKs too though prefer the Bosch one myself having had a few failures with NGK. Nick

Quite possibly, came to us with 140k (and nearly solid oil). This at about 175k. Never smoked. Even when driven at continuously at full throttle, which is the only way anything “powered” by a VAG SDI engine will actually move (the s is for slow). Didn’t use any oil either. Did a similar exercise on my 5 pot Audi TDI when it had done about 175k. It was nearly as bad in spite of meticulous maintenance. EGR was disabled at the same time. Now on 335k and still clean so I conclude that EGR is the cause. It’s always comfortably passed the MoT emissions first run since then too, whereas before it needed all 6 attempts to squeak through..... Nick

Which got there from the EGR and breather systems.... and ran down the valve stem from leaky valve stem seals....... before being baked on. Valve backs noticeably cleaner on engines with port FI rather than carb. Never owned a DI petrol and not planning to. DI diesels can have ports almost blocked by carbon deposits from EGR....... I doubt DI petrol get quite this bad, but even a 1/4 as bad.......!! BTW pics are of a VAG 1.7SDI inlet. It ran better when cleaned out. Got to agree on those pesky designers though. Lots clear advances in maintenance hostility in recent years, especially in the VAG stables. Nick

Rimmers are wrong. The late Mk3 self-adjusting (hah!) backplates are definitely not the same as Mk1 GT6 and Vitesse, though they would be interchangeable (with a number of other parts needed as well) if you wanted to convert to manual adjustment. As Clive and Rob are saying, I think they are common with Dolomite. Most likely 1850 and possibly 1500. I had an 1850 once and the self adjusters.... didn’t. Nick

If a decent number then why not get a machine shop to add the groove - only a couple of minutes work per bearing once set up..... Nick

Generally they go the distance without going slack. The only other I’ve seen with slack in the pinion bearings was utterly done after being run dry. Possibly the Dolly one had been previously messed with.

I agree that you would get different positions. To achieve the as-new preload you would likely have to tighten the nut/collapse the spacer a little more. However, you should return the nut to its previous position. You should not preload a used bearing set to the same degree as a new set. Nick Edit: Probably irrelevant aside, but I once owned a Dolly 1850, which has basically the same diff. The pinion seal leaked..... a lot. So I bought a new seal. But when crawled underneath to sort it I found significant play in the pinion bearing. The nut didn’t appear to have moved. I was surprised as there was no whining or vibration. Anyhow, more in hope than expectation I pulled the flange off, fitted the new seal and refitted the flange, tightening the nut just enough to remove all the play. Then topped up the oil and crossed my fingers. It was fine. Between us my brother and I put another 50k on the car. Plenty went wrong with it, blew two gearboxes and one engine.... but the diff was fine!

For the collapsible spacer type there is no nut torque. This is because you gradually tighten the nut until the correct bearing preload is achieved. That is measured by determining the torque needed to turn the pinion assembly and should be done with the carrier out. If you just want to change the seal, you need to mark the nut, flange and shaft. Then undo carefully counting turns. After swapping seals, screw the nut back on the same number of turns, to you marks. Nick

Good job. You’ve done a lot in the time available! Somewhat stressful working to the daily driver deadline! Nick

Why has the load on the brackets changed..... ? The boot lid still weighs the same...... unless the strut is too long and fighting the stop on the hinges? Or do you mean the excess pressure over and above what is needed to actually hold the lid up? That’ll drop over time as the nitrogen charge escapes the gas spring.... At least you don’t have the shock loads from that daft ratchety thing the factory fitted doing the unexpected. Nick

Yeah..... counting the ones in the cars I’ve got 7 here (yeah..... I know). All double notch. I’ve got a couple more at my lock-up which are double notch. Possibly the couple of 4.11s I had in my Herald (including its original) were singles and I’ve forgotten. To be fair, most of the collection are from later cars which obviously skews things. Nick

I’m no power lifter but a Bare 6 pot block is liftable by one if you have to. More than I care to pick up, but I can and have done. The early straight sided ones are a bit lighter than the bubble blocks. Easy two man lift, which is much more sensible. Once you start adding parts, especially crank, two man or hoist becomes the only way. Nick

You likely will never see one of the single cut-out ones..... They mostly seem to be bent to some extent (front to back). They straighten easily enough.

The gear is just the running witness Mark. That lobe is goosed though. Worth considering the Spit Mk3 grind or Newman PH1 which will wake up the midrange a little without spoiling tractability or idle. Nick

We like the Halfords 063. Just had to recycle one date stamped 2004. Been the garage slave battery the last couple of years but was still coping with weekly use up to then. Not sure who makes the Halfords ones but they are decent and reasonably priced, especially if you have a trade card Nick

Strongly advise against putting any personal or card details on the Great Magazines site. It is not secure. Wife had her debit card cloned after using their site a couple of weeks ago. They are aware of the problem. Nick

I think setting fire to your overalls is optional Pete...... I prefer not to. Aim is to heat the electrodes and insulator to the point where the deposits burn away and residue brushed away. Nick Edit: If you have an NGK plug that has stopped working after a petrol soaking (flooding), this probably won’t help. I’ve not found anything that recovers them.

Dunno about mostly....... most of the bits that rust most enthusiastically (floors, outriggers etc) are still steel..... or were.... Nick

I’d say that was a Spitfire lever. Too long for GT6 and too angled to be Herald/Vitesse Nick

Not on OE ones there isn’t. Nor on most replacements. Just the Moss ones that I’m aware of. Something strange in the close up pic next to the oil hole where it looks like a wear “Island” left by the relief on the shaft has suddenly started seeing contact...... Shaft retaining screw come out allowing the shaft to turn? Or cam change increasing movement range? Nick

Don’t think that matters? Suppose it might depend on the actual manifold will fit around the inlet. Be aware that it probably will affect the jetting (needle choice) Nick

Eh?? What about the 4-2-1 John, which works in exactly the same way as the 6-3-1 on a six, linking the paired cylinder ports for the scavenge effect? This is the one you want on any road driven 4 pot IMO and there are several on the market to choose from. Assuming the OP has a 13/60 Herald then the manifold sold for the Mk3, Mk4 or 1500 Spitfire will fit. Nick

This stuff I think. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-114439-victor-reinz-reinzosil-high-temperature-silicon-sealing-compound.aspx I wouldn’t bother to lift a head purely to deal with a bit of sweating/misting. Mine is starting to do it again after about 5 years/ 18k in spite of the extra sealing. Only when the car has had a thrashing though. I think it’s telling me something about the breather capacity (inadequate) Nick