Steve P

Only if you give it a load of oil leaks as well. S

I have a 3:63 (4 hole) on my 1500 Herald with a fixed spring,i was going to ask about the addition of a Courier spring with a 1 inch lowering block to it, too much load?. Steve

Back in the day, i put a washer behind the spring to imrove oil pressure on my Mini before i sold it.Deception?! no a performance improvement. S

Seal may well be rubbish as a lot of the modern repros are, last one i did some years ago on my Vitesse, I put it in the oven to soften it first. Steve

My Vitesse suffers from it sometimes in the winter as its kept in an unheated lockup, i guess its from degraded seals on the rim. Although it`s possible (likely) the rear bulb and wiring connections aren`t air tight. Steve

I hate to correct uncle Pete, but he keeps saying silly Negative camber when i think he means positive camber,(runs away and hides). S

Never any start up rattles on my Vitesse, instant pressure and good pressure once hot, fwiw i use a Fram filter at about 45 degrees with the spin on conversion and VR1 oil. Others will have their own opinions. Steve

Well I`ve just fitted a refurbed Vitesse brake master, along with 4 pot calipers so i will see how that performs. Clutch one can stay. Few things i would change on that Vitesse..Wire wheels, wheelbarrow exhaust and those crappy pancake filters. Nice car though. S

The master cylinders on my 13/60 are the other way round with the clutch one having the additional reservoir?. Steve

Got one on the way from Wins already,mailed him after my post and he replied within 5 minutes. Steve

I think i figured this out, one side has the water shield for the felt seal and one doesn`t. And i think a previous owner has rebuilt it with the felt seal with the metal ring on the upright rather than the hub, that`s definitely how it came off. All i need is to source a water seal ring, anyone know if they are available as the usual suspects all say NLA?. Steve

Here`s a copy from Rimmers, when dismantled, mine doesn`t have No. 8 on the parts image, the felt seal and metal ring are pressed on to the upright facing the hub?. Removed by lightly tapping the metal ring off the upright.

I`m confused, i`m talking about the metal carrier which taps onto the upright to hold the seal against the rear hub bearing, i was told to put a dab of Loctite on the metal ring to hold it?. Problem is the new one is a bigger inner diameter than the old one. See attached from Rimmers:https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GHS110 Steve

Back to the rebuild, i have noticed when doing the drivers side, the felt seal and carrier which comes with the bearing kit from Canleys, is larger than the one i took off. It doesn`t fit snugly on the upright as the old one does, also i noticed when fitted with the hub on, the seal and retainer rotates with the hub, i remembered i re-used the old retainer with a new felt seal on the other side. Wrong part or just poor modern equivalents?. Steve

The Work listed above is never 6 weeks,2 at the very most by an unskilled gorilla! Just a con. Steve

Interesting weekend, was planning to rebuild the drivers side yesterday, ended up in A+E all day, had a sore calf muscle, turns out to be DVT in my left leg. Injections yesterday and blood thinners starting today, scary. Steve

Definitely a must have NOT for me now, i don`t know why, but it turned to jelly and gummed up the whole engine meaning a complete rebuild..Again. Steve

I used that in a brand new engine, gummed the whole engine up and killed it. Steve

Is it that photo or does it look like the nut has come off and the wheel/hub etc has followed it?. Mine broke at the keyway so hardly any left sticking out like that. Steve

Hello Roger, It`s fairly straight forward, i just accumulated all the MK 2 parts over time, and then all you need is the wishbone mounting brackets which you weld onto the chassis. They are available from Canleys and maybe other suppliers. Then it`s just a case of building it all up. Only difference is the handbrake cables, it takes some careful setting up as the movement of the hub up and down affects the tension of the handbrake cable, but once setup properly it is fine,i would say better than before. I just didn`t want the 3 wheels on my wagon feeling again, or the 8 hour recovery from Cornwall. I have another set ready to go on my Herald 1500, just done the Trunnionless conversion on that as well.(see Hub advice thread). Maybe i like tinkering. Steve

I have said before on here, i had one fail on my MK 1 Vitesse going up a hill in Cornwall on the 2012 RBRR exiting a roundabout.The wheel departed with the hub attached. The break was at the keyway, i was looking at the shaft yesterday funnily enough as i kept it in my garage. I went for the Roto-CV shaft conversion for peace of mind, i have owned the car since 1985 so don`t know if they were original, the odometer shows 90k miles. I put it down to running a tuned 2.5 engine and saloon gearbox putting around 170 bhp out, maybe over stressing the shafts original limits. I remember Chris Sherrington using a similar modern version of shafts on his T6, ( Sommers Bros?). Around the £8-900 mark i think. Steve

That's what they look like to me,HS6 on a short tract manifold with Sprint dash pots. I have the same on my 2.5 Vitesse except that I have the long tract manifold which apparently flows better.Mine is flowed and modified by GT so it definitely does.Not sure if the long one would fit under a GT6 bonnet. Steve

On my Mk 1 Vitesse when i got it, with presumably the same setup as your 6,it was terrible and hopped around corners, this was due to a worn spring and knackered dampers that had no rebound at all. Steve

Ok it appears I have as shown in the diagram, all back together now ,just need to go round and check everything is tightened up and put the wheel on and move on to the other side. Steve

Does it crunch when changing down, my Herald always does if you forget to take it out of overdrive?. Steve