JohnD

RD, An open pipe is just a touch antisocial, in an age, when cars are expected to produce only sweetness and light, not crank fumes. Positive crankcase ventilation has been in use since the 1950s. But if you don't want to recycle the fumes into the air intake (and I don't) a catch tank with a small filter on its vent will allow the worst of them to condense, and all you need to do is empty the rather yucky stuff out of the tank now and then. There are all sizes available, with all sorts of wingdings attached from baffles to sight-tubes, at all sorts of prices, but good ones for less than £20. See eBay! JOhn

Gordon, I left out a link to a conversion website (there are many) that shows the minimal reconnections that such a conversions needs - not a "pile"! And please, electrical minded or not, buy yourself a multimeter! Less than £10. John

theestimator, Suggest you live up to your nom d'Internet and do some measuring! What volts are available AT the alternator when running? Should between 14 and 15V. If low or high, then there may be an alternator fault, but as you say, that you be unlikely with a new one. "Pile of wires" where the Volts Regulator used to be? Shouldn't be. This MG site explains how to convert from dynamo to alternator, and basicly, it's connectinfg the right wires where the VR box used to be, not a tangle. My bet is, poor engine block earth. However much the alternator puts out, it has to return. Triumph provided a manky length of wire mesh, often rusted away or forgotten when an engine is put back in. Use a length of the same cable used for the starter motor - it has to carry that current too - from the block to a really, really good earth. The battery earth is best. John

Jim, Please consult the MSA Yearbook, (The Blue Book), Section K Safety. https://www.msauk.org/assets/153191commonregulationsforcompetitorssafetyk.pdf It's not specific for a GT6, but shows you the best way to secure the anchors and run the belts. The shoulder belts in particular should be as horizontal as possible. In that situation, using a cross tube of the roll cage is a good way to achieve this. See: http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/4470-4-point-harness/ It avoids the need for more holes in the shell. See Section K for details. The crotch belts should go through a hole in the seat, just in front of your crotch - many modern race seats provide one, and then be spread apart as widely as is practical. The objective is to prevent 'submarining', where the energy of an impact pushes the body downwards in the seat - bad for the spine and (less importantly!) for the legs. For specific examples, suggest you visit a race circuit where a GT6 is competing, and talk to the drivers. Classic Sports Car Club has Gt6s in the "Swinging 60s" series Their race calendar is here: http://www.classicsportscarclub.co.uk/?q=Calendar John

Peter, when you say "open", do you mean to drill out the top thread of the newly tapped stud holes? For Haggis, this is an essential part of the mod, as otherwise when you insert the stud, it will compress the metal around the hole. No probs, except on the face where the metal can expand upwards. This tiny bulge can support the gasket and head and cause the seal to fail. After tapping, the hole should be counterdrilled with a slightly larger bit, just enough to remove the top turn of the thread. Best done by the machine shop that deals with the block, but remind them of the necessity. John

They are fairly new, but as I only bought a new, conventional torque wrench a couple of years ago, I haven't got myself one. Nor, as it happens do any of the professionals I know, possibly because they have invested in conventional SnapOn TWs, treat them as precision instruments and have them calibrated every few years! This review of a few devices is complimentary about a torque adaptor, but also shows by testing how im[ortatnt it is the return your 'click' wrench to zero before putting it away: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/ccrp-1304-torque-wrench-testing/ John

Hmmmmmmmmmm. " Snap-On 1/2" Drive Electronic Flex-Head TechAngle® Torque Wrench " https://store.snapon.com/TechAngle-174-Models-2-Accuracy-Ratcheting-Flex-Head-1-2-Drive-Electronic-Flex-Head-TechAngle-Torque-Wrench-12-5-250-ft-lb--P760213.aspx $500 for an excellent,long-lifed SnapOn tool, that provides the same accuracy, from the same technology, as that torque gauge. I showed a 3/4" drive one just at random, yes, "cheaper models are available". Clarke sell one for £36: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/040215238/ SnapOn are fantastic tools, well worth it for a pro. John

"Electric torque wrench"?? Do you mean a buzzgun, a cordless impact driver? Most have no adjustment, or else a crude low/medium/high. EG http://www.acdelco-tools.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=79 "5 torque settings" No technician would rely on that, but set it low and then tighten with a proper torque wrench. Do you mean an electronic torque gauge? That goes between a breaker bar and the socket? EG http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Torque-Adaptor-Digital-3-4Sq-Drive-100-500Nm-STW292-Sealey?gclid=CPOhjPaTrM0CFfMV0wodJEgLEg "Accuracy +/- 2%" But you can check your torque wrench, by clamping the drive bar in a vice and weighting the handle with a large object of known mass, hung a measured distance from the drive bar. John

Philip, An AGM battery does have advantages over the conventional lead acid battery, in particular a rapid charge and discharge, and good performance in a deep-discharge cycle. But the last means using up all the useful charge and then recharging it again at once. They are still lead-acid batteries and they sulphate if allowed to stay discharged for long. See: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/absorbent_glass_mat_agm (the whole website is a mine of gold about batteries!) Ypu could end up with a very expensive, dead battery. Clive is quite right - spend the money on a trickle charger, or even better, a "float" charger, that senses the state of the battery continuously: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery John

This engine has been rebuilt, yes, haggis? So no crud, Pete. And it is a Mk2 engine, so no swaged in push rod tubes to leak oil from the 'cam follower chest' (a new term for me! but I know what you mean) Quote, " it has an awful oil leak on the left hand side of the block on the same side as the coil, distributor etc. This leak only occurs when the vehicle is hot and driving, when stationary hot or cold there is evidence of the leak but no sign of where it is coming from, its all over the side of the engine between the distributor pedestal and the alternator. It would seem to be cascading down from the head gasket level as everything above this is oil free." Dip stick. Oil is coming out and spraying that area of the block. It's been rebuilt, but is there still blow by, and excess crank chamber pressure? This can happen with a new engine, until the rings bed in, or if the bores have glazed. Do a compression test, looking for equality across the block, to ensure that a ring hasn't seized. And with it warmed up, take off the oil filler and feel the wind coming out - if it is a zephyr, all is well; if it is a mighty wind ...... After your first start, how did you drive it? Initial in-garage run should be 2-3.5K, varying it all the time, for 20 minutes to bed in the cam followers. Then on the road, foot hard down in third, so that the engine has to work hard - but don't bog it. This forces the rings against the bores, to bed them in. And on the overrun keep it in gear with the throttle closed, foot off pedal, engine braking. This generates the maximum vacuum in the bores, drawing up oil onto the wall and rings to lubricate them. Brrrrrrrrrrm! and coast down. Repeat, and repeat, and repeat. Drive like this wherever possible - eg not in busy traffic, in fact avoid traffic, and do so on more open roads where your antics will annoy no one! This avoids glazed, polished bores that do not seal and cause excess blow-by. Do this for as long as you can. 200 miles at least. Meanwhile, wrap some rag around the top of the dip tube, and see if I'm right. If not then warm it up, clean the block as much as possible, and drive it to the end of the road. And back, Repeat, until you see where the oil is coming from! Good luck! John

Jason, If adding fuel to the intakes doesn't get it to fire, then this is not a fuelling problem. So it's ignition, and like Paul says you need to check that you are not 180 degrees out. That means the distributor is firing No.4, when it should fire No. 1. Recall that any 4 cylinder engine has the pistons move in pairs. When No.1 is at Top Dead Centre (TDC) and the ignition fires its plug shortly before, No.4 is also at TDC but with both valves open at the end of one 4 strioke cycle and the beginning of the next. To get it right, set No.1 at TDC, and observe the valves. Are those on No.1 both closed? And those on No.4 slightly open, intake going down (opening) and exhaust coming up? Now look at the rotor arm. Is it pointing at the ignition lead for No.1? It should be! Don't worry about precision, just that the arm is pointing more or less at No.1 Now put the rocker cover and the dizzy cap back on, and do the static timing which is described in the Haynes and the Official workshop manuals, so as to be more precise about the position of the dizzie. Then go for a start, with the dizzie unclamped, so that you can rotate it very slightly, advancing and retarding the spark around TDC. You WILL get a start! Now you can accurately time the ignition with a strobe gun, if you have one! Good luck JOhn

JB Weld is an epoxy glue. See my previous reply, but I hope it seals the problem for you! John

Some time ago, I noticed that new reproduction trunnions had a steel plate swaged into the bottom, as doug notes, instead of being solid bronze (not brass). I suggested then to seal the bottom inside with an epoxy glue, a lot easier than soldering. This may not be possible once they have been used, as the leaking seam will be full of oil, and the glue will not bind to the metal, while soldering will fail likewise. Brazing may work, as it's hotter and may vapourise/burn the oil out, but any will work best on new (and cleaned) units. John

Pete, I'm sorry, I cannot imagine why you haven't had a reply, as I remember the question! And feel sure I did reply. But Hey! That's computers for you. The Spitfire Squadron was a team name from the HeyDay of TSSC racing, when six race Spitfires could easily be gathered to enter the 750MC's Birkett Six Hour Relay Race. In fact, in the 90s I organised a second team of Spitfires, "Team TSSC" - see pic below. It was a wonderful event that got cars of every type on track at once, from 750 Series, Austin7 based specials to racing Bentleys from WO's own hands. As there could be forty or more teams, each with a car on track at once, it was a whole day of continuous motorsport, that became a regular, end-of-season jolly for most of UK's racers. And Triumphs played their part. But Triumph racers became thin on the ground, and the Hadfield's (a racing family if there ever was, Mr., Mrs. and Master Hadfield too) moved on. They honoured me by asking if I'd take on the Squadron, that they had organised for years. So for several years, I did, although it's name came to include GT6s and my Vitesse. But after the 2008 race, when we were one of the only half-dozen classic car teams in an even bigger field of fifty-five teams at Silverstone, it became obvious that those who drove moderns were intolerant of slower cars, in a way that drivers in the Old Birkett would have declared a very bad show. My drivers (and I) were cut up and even damaged by, I'm sad to say, incompetent race drivers - it is a non-contact sport, after all. The Last Spitfire Squadron team, 2008. After that, I couldn't get a team together, and the Spitfire Squadron went into retirement, although my Vitesse stills bears the Team Logo. But a "pace-car" for the Squadron? The Team was only ever entered for the Birkett, that employs a pace car for dangerously positioned break-downs and crashes, the same way as F1, but that is the race organisers' car. And in the years before my "ownership", the teams were almost always Spitfires. I'm sorry, but although I do have some records of the Squadron's teams, none feature the cars' registration numbers. So please, if Jim Fullbrook will scan these documents and let me see them, I'll try to tally them up, if I can. John

Before you do this heavy job, read the page on Diff noises at Canley Classics: http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/rear-end-noises/ It may change your mind about what is the problem. John

I fear that when we own and run such old cars, it is incumbent on us to maintain them properly. "Motorists" used to be exhorted to check their tyre pressures every time they went out, to check the fluids weekly and grease the suspension every few months. Modern cars are not only a light year more reliable, but they check themselves! I have a slightly less that perfectly sealing tyre on one wheel of my modern, and every few months it tells me - low pressure! In fact, the pressure is less than 5 psi lower than ideal, and it gets pumped up. We cannot let that extraordinary reliability make us forget that our cars are from that previous era. As you say, yours was a clutch fluid leak, not brakes, which could be rather more embarrassing. A quick check under the bonnet and a critical look at the tyres should be a rule before each trip, IMHO. I really don't think that this was a sudden failure, instead one that you would have noted on a journey and taken the right action, even if it stranded you, but regular checks can reveal a problem long before it become critical. John

Over on the French site Amicale Spitfire, Bruno Monteil has posted some thermal imaging pictures of a running Spitfire engine. Relevant by comparison to the straight six. No surprises or unexpected hot spots, but useful to see! http://www.amicalesp...e.fr/thermo.php John

EXCELLENT! Thank you, Casper! Not only one of the best pics of SofS, but it shows the lovely wooded aspect of Crystal Palace. I have ordered my own copy. And yes, I forgot the pale blue TR4, but looking at all the other entrants, it's not a good turn out for Triumph. I chatted to many Triumph owners who visited the event, but none AFAIK, apart from Andy, who were members of this or any Triumph club. If I didn't live so far away, I'd join Sevenoaks, a most active motor club that organises many different events, in all motorsport diciplines: http://www.sevenoaksmotorclub.com/ If you keep an eye on their website, I'm sure that next years Motorsport at the Palace will come up. John

What a blast! Thanks for dropping by in the paddock, Andy - good to see you again! Mjit, Motorsport at the Palace has been happening annually since 2010, when Sevenoaks and District MC had the brilliant idea of reviving what remains if the old CP GP circuit as a sprint event. It's been so successful that SDMC has engaged a professional promotion company to run it this year - and very well too. If you think it is under publicised complain to them! For it was under entered by only two other Triumphs. Rob Welsh with his T2000 (with a BMW 2.5L engine!) and Clive Letherby's TR6, billed as having 4L, but no idea what, as the owner was never around when I visited. Both are members of 7Oaks, but not of this or any Marque club like this one. Which was sad, as no other Triumpheros shared this gorgeous event! Everyone got five runs a day, two practice and three that counted, or rather one of three, and the fastest was the important one. That may sound minimal, but it's once an hour, which is completely different from a race meeting where you may be active once in the AM and once in the PM. And how active! The course is short - about 700 meters - and I don't think I breath during a run, there so much else to do. Certainly, I arrive at the finish line, breathless and gasping. It's held in classic spring/hillclimb fashion. When called, you queue for the start line, where a valiant and hardworking team of marshals manhandle your car so that a 'timing strut', an upright strip on the bumper, just doesn't break a light beam. When the light goes green you start in your own time, breaking the beam and starting the clock, which is stopped again by a beam on the finish line. In between, there are acute bends, a hairpin, three straights and one of the hairiest corners, North Tower, in the country. Narrow, closely surrounded by trees and bushes, it has at least three apices, each of which must be hit just right to make best speed. It's not easy! I'm proud to have gained two seconds over the two days, down to 43.38. I have no pics as yet of SofS on track - Andy, please? John

Asbestosis (Lung fibrosis that stops you breathing) and mesothelioma (a lung cancer) are diseases we rarely see today. Like typhoid, whooping cough, Diphtheria and many other diseases that public health has almost abolished, they have lost their terror and people treat them as trivial. And so we get outbreaks of, say, measles, like the mini-epidemic in Swansea in 2013. Measles, you say, Pah! A trivial disease - and you are so wrong. It kills 2-3% of those who catch it, can cause blindness, swelling of the brain, deafness and pneumonia. In the Swansea outbreak a man did die, although he was already ill, and the lack of other deaths was due to good medical care. In the same way, the industrial diseases of asbestosis that were rife before the 1980s when laws were passed in many countries to control its use, have been forgotten - because public health has stopped them happening. You're not doomed, but you could be unlucky. Asbestosis is a disease that usually affects those who have used the stuff for a long time, but mesothelioma can occur after trivial exposure, and only occurs with asbestos. I know of a farmer who died of the tumour and his only traceable exposure was to build a barn roof with asbestos. To strive to use asbestos brake linings is perverse, when modern ones are so good,and to treat it as safe in small quantities just silly. John John

Or, you can ride the motorway with a friend counting the 100 meter posts. So many in a minute, or how long to pass, say ten, and then it's mere arithmetic. Sad to say the 100m pots are not well maintained, so test drive first to find a run of upright ones. It's all to get you out in your Triumph! John

A problem is that as soon as you have the plug out, a jet of oil spouts out, hits the chassis rail, splashes everywhere, and runs back ot forwards along the rail, making a mess. My solution? A piece of folded cardboard, that sits over the rail, catches the flood and directs it down into the bucket, bowl or dolly bathtub (I stole it from my daughter, twenty years ago) I hope this pic shows how the idea works. Any old card will standup even to hot oil for long enough to do the job, and then is of course thrown away. Cereal packets seem ideal! JOhn

Back to the subject. Road & Stage Motorsport, Morecambe can get rear brake shoes relined with Mintex. I'm on my tablet or I would post a link, but Google for them and give the lovely Julie a ring. John

Don't sell yourself short, Mish! How I tested those sensors was very simple. Camp stove on bench; battery set up to energise a sensor, gauge and volts regulator, with the sensor under test held in a water pan on the stove. Multimeter set up to measure sensor resistance. As it happened, the multimeter I had then had a temp probe of its own, so I could switch from Ohms to degrees C with a click of the rotary switch. As you say, an IR gun would do as well, but paint the inside of the pan black. Guns don't do well on a shiny surface. Pic below. John

Agree with Andy. Published this before, but anyway: Purple as it should be. Yellow and Blue, old,but I've seen this on three month old sensors. JOhn