Colin Lindsay

How do you stick them all to the wall like that?

I don't think it's killing off interest in classics; if anything it's promoted them - you can see at a glance what cars are like, read generally accurate reviews, see the differences between models, good points and bad points, even buy them online and you know more or less what to pay; but what it has done is kill Clubs in the physical sense. Back in the day you had to go to Club meets to talk to like minded people or find spare parts, now you just go online and get it all for free.

Finding something online that has been overlooked and is selling for pennies is almost - but not quite - as good as rummaging through a parts bin and finding rare goodies in the depths that no-one else has seen. I miss that fun! Roll on the next good autojumble. Here's hoping Gt Malvern has a few.

The Internet was the end of that. Parts for sale everywhere and advice online for free, no need to go to autojumbles or club meets for help. Technology moved on and spoiled all the fun.

Shouldn't need it; the hoses are a suitable length and not really under great pressure so it's unliklely they could be blown right back and completely off the pipe. Frost actually sell a flaring machine for cooling pipes that puts a flange round the pipe to help hoses stay on, but it's big money for home use.

Mine got that; wash on Friday, polish on Sunday. And still not been out on the road yet... but looks nice and clean!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-911-SC-Carrera-930-genuine-dashboard-clock/324491479366?hash=item4b8d330946:g:E-0AAOSwzypgL3Zj Nice clock I'm sure but the price is a bit high... :0 You could always buy one with white hands and paint them? I've done that before on Smith's gauges.

Another two steps forward and one back routine, but things are more positive with the mechanical side of things. If only the bodywork would play ball. I had a bit more work on the engine, building it from bare block with pistons, camshaft and crank to something more like an engine. A quick check of the rear crank oil seal confirmed this is an early 39 bhp engine which has the scroll-type oil seal, so just needs cleaned up rather than replaced, as in the Estate engine which is five years later on in production and used a rubber seal. Oil runs back along the threads as they spin and then drips off onto this deflector plate and back into the sump. With that all fitted it was time for my nice alloy end-plate, which has been safely stored for almost ten years. Then it was time for the flywheel (diaphragm clutch conversion; I have two brand new B&B clutch sets salted away and it's a shame not to use one.) The modern flywheel bolts do not use the early tab washers, but are an interference fit and will stay put when torqued up - with a little help from threadlock. Of course, torquing up the engine did put a lot of sideways pressure on it... which overbalanced it off the pedestal it was sitting, on and a slow, majestic roll sideways would have to land on the only protruding part of the backplate... Both bent and distorted out of round. Having heard the tales of problems caused by distorted backplates I removed it again but then realised it's perfectly straight everywhere else, so it was sandwiched between two old steel plates and flattened again. By using a starter motor spacer I was able to mend it back to a perfect circle so happy days, it's now reused. The engine was now connected to the gearbox and early alloy bellhousing, not helped by the fact that the fitting kit I bought last year was supplied with over a dozen incorrect nuts; only the two starter motor nuts were correct. I had to pilfer some from the Estate kit that was from a different supplier, and was therefore correct. The engine and gearbox were then suspended from a hoist, from one piece of nylon rope - NOT recommended for anyone of a nervous disposition - then lowered and adjusted as the chassis was moved about in underneath so that it cleared the bulkhead. Bolts inserted, nuts tightened, and we have an engine and gearbox again, with the head resting in place until it can be properly painted. Rocker assembly is just set on top to prevent loss or damage on the bench... It's a bit morale boost, not to mention clears a bit of floor space, and means I can crack on with the engine ancillaries whilst waiting for the bodyworker to appear. As a diversion, with the relaxation of lockdown rules I had some of the local Club members over yesterday and did a bit of servicing on some of the Club cars. It was nice to have some company again and get some life about the place, including a real rarity - a genuine on-the-road Herald which is a 12/50-engined convertible, hence the rear badges; but in very nice condition and a pleasure to work on. Plenty of reference photos taken, above and below, before Barry reversed it out and took it away again. I'll get there, just as long as time and money are no problem and the right parts come along at the exact time they're required...

Whilst waiting for the oven to heat up I've been searching online. https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/phpbb/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3226 No torque details, I joined this forum so as to post that question, 13 years after the last reply... https://mgclife.home.blog/2017/04/25/girling-brake-caliper-rebuild/ This guy advocates 40 on the outer bolts and 70 on the inner (type 16 with four bolts) MGA site says: torque to a 'reasonable' spec. https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/22966-girling-caliper-torque-setting/ TR Register says 50 - 70 depending on the bolt size. Revington TR are not committing to anything: Girling do not advise splitting these callipers (not single casting TR3 type). However, when you have split them and realized you shouldn't have, you will need an 'O' ring to put them back together.We keep 2 types509044TR3A seal inner to outer calliper body.RTR4028TR4-6 seal inner to outer calliper body calliper. 16p type calliperThese seals are as close as we can get to the original, however, as Girling offer no information on them we cannot guarantee their fitness for purpose. In other words, use them at your own risk! The Lotus Elan forum is divided between splitters and non-splitters; some have never found it necessary and others think that if you split them you may forget to refit the rubber seal. https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/triumph-spitfire-front-brake-calipers This would appear the most specific so far; they recommend a torque setting of 30 lb/ft according to the Caterham / Lotus 7 assembly manual. Incidentally what's an M O R torque setting?

I've checked three calipers today and none have any markings on the bolts.

The diff serial number is along the rib, dead centre. As you can see you may need to clean a lot of grime of first.

Haven't got Smiths but have a Keinzle (German make); same green light as the Triumph gauges. I think it's larger, though, maybe 2.5 inches / 60 mill approx?

So those little Halfords Argon / Co2 bottles will last about 5 minutes?

Owners want to attend shows for free, or use the facilities of the club for free. Everyone wants events but won't pay, or the benefit and assistance of the TSSC, but won't pay. I'm always asked: what do I get for my money? They should be asking: what have I lost by not supporting? I know owners who will spend thousands on uprating their Triumphs but not £40 on membership as they 'can't afford it'... The Standard motor Club will do nothing for anyone who isn't a member: "Do not waste our volunteers valuable time if you are not prepared to join". I wonder how they survive at £39 annual membership? As for Clive's comment: "Better than being all MG. And us being left at home." That's the option these days? I feel we deserve more than that. I do so hate being the poor relation...

Reverse pushes the pin in to complete the circuit. Yours sounds like it's back to front!

With regards to the overrider it's hard to get access to do anything else; the nut is probably just rotating inside the cage. Grind the bolt head off and sort out the captive nut in the overrider as necessary but replace the bolt with a length of threaded rod, then you'll only ever have to unscrew the nut from inside the boot.

That's a two-edged sword... I've been to joint MG / Triumph Shows, and especially remember the parts suppliers and the autojumble... MG... MG... MG... MG... MG... Triumph.... MG... MG... MG... MG... we're outnumbered and sometimes it can feel like the poor relation. Most of the suppliers who supply both Marques concentrated on the MG end of things. Surely there are more than just two great British marques who hold shows and events, and we could get together with someone more our own size??

I've never used the one I split; it's still in two halves however unless they used special one-use bolts to hold them together I reckon the correct torque could be attained, if we could work out what it is. For the caliper to be forced apart against the bolts, the pistons would need to be exerting terrific force against the pads; and if they separate under normal light braking it would seem they were never properly tightened up in the first place. It's funny I never saw Pete's reply; must check the bolts. I don't mess about with brakes, they're not something you can even think of bodging, but it's something worth looking into. Wonder how the reconditioners do it?

I remember the two large levers, one yellow knob one red, for high and low gearing. Does that count?

That will work as the coolant will flow into the rad from cold. Why do you suspect it's stuck open? Car not warming up?

There's a great quote about the GT6 vs the MGB in one of our Triumph books; goes something along the lines of "The GT6 was a pretty Italian car designed in the era of pretty Italian cars, whilst the MGB had a heavy rear axle, dated styling and all the charm of a J4 van...."

One of the old RG series? Nice for originality, worth about a tenner if you try to sell it. I'd keep it for the original look and hide a more modern player somewhere in the car.

Some of the kits sold online have the seal included (some don't) in fact some have more than one. Might be worth contacting the seller to see if he'll measure. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-Delco-BD27-7971387-Fuel-Pump-Repair-Kit-for-Vauxhall-Viva-1256cc-HC-1976-on/332460537105?hash=item4d68313511%3Ag%3Aun4AAOSw~AVYrDse&LH_ItemCondition=1000

I bought my first Spitfire as they were always regarded as a poor second to MGs; having been involved in rallying Midgets in the 1970s I just wanted a change. I always found the MG to be quite dated, the Spitfire was a much more modern design, yet as I grew older I sort of did a 360 and preferred the older styling. MGB GTs were everywhere but I never saw a GT6 until I joined the TSSC so again I loved the rarity. It's like the MX5; there's a lot of rivalry, a lot of proud owners out there and while I'll tease them from time to time they're just the same as the rest of us with their preferred Marque. Good points and bad in all!

Technically they're both operating above the norm ie the guitar pedal pushes the sound beyond standard and the overdrive makes the car go faster for the same revs. Under drive is where you leave the car... as opposed to inder garage.