Colin Lindsay

There was never a factory option however why not buy one of the large cargo-area mats that are designed to be trimmed to any size? The one I have in the Freelander was £14.99 from Lidl a few years back and has lasted well despite the fact that I still haven't trimmed it to shape. Most of those that I've seen on the market are so large they would make two for the Gt6, at least...

I wonder who ordered the two yellow ones.... Nice to see that all that Government subsidising is productive...

I used a metal pot scrubber then a plastic version on my 1200 convertible pistons, along with both petrol and carb cleaner; they looked terrible at first, very sooty but no pitting and cleaned up very well - just be gentle and avoid any deep scratches. Unlike the Estate pistons these are being reused as the bores are slightly discoloured around the tops but suitable for reuse as is. The 1200 Estate pistons were very crusty and although it mostly cleaned off it needed a rebore and so new pistons and rings. The bore itself had a definite ring round it; I was able to feel it with a fingernail and although it felt almost insubstantial it took a bore out to +30 to remove it. I had hoped to get away without a rebore but despite the wear being very very light to the touch it was still quite bad in engine terms. Hope the photos help you work out what yours needs.

Some classics don't exactly fly off the lot either....

How much do the internals from the saloon box differ from the Vitesse? There's an empty gearbox casing on eBay at present for £12 - could you swap over the internals?

When I was pricing a rebore for the Herald engine I was quoted a price (quite hefty!) and this actually went up if the company did not supply the pistons and rings too, at quite an astronomical price. I went to another company who bored the block out to +30 and were happy that any good quality +30 piston and new rings would fit, so I was able to source the pistons and rings myself (from Paddocks) and saved about £300 overall.

You can buy converted heads on eBay, £395 plus £16 postage; this includes collection of your old head as an exchange unit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-2-LITRE-UNLEADED-HEAD-GT6-MK-1-2-VITESSE-MK1-2-EXCHANGE-RECON/113811613321?hash=item1a7fb36689:g:HFMAAOSwdX5c0Lno

Thanks Johnny; one of the reasons I post here is that it helps clear the mind wonderfully - a bit like thinking out loud - so extension removal it is. I reconditioned two 1200 gearboxes earlier in the year and darned if I could remember how I got the extension off, but I'm almost sure the drive came out first. As long as I know it'll come off over the speedo drive I'm all for it tomorrow.

It's yet another chicken and egg scenario. The speedo drive is stuck, and won't budge, so I'm trying to be very gentle with it and tease it out but the rear housing won't budge until it clears the gears. The rear housing is held in by the rear bearing clutching the shaft and won't budge as I suspect the speedo drive is also holding it in place, and I don't have a spare housing so don't want to break any of the little fins off by battering it. If one moves, the other will too. Patience, and perseverance. What I'm desperately fighting the urge to do is to put a drift into the small oil hole on the other side of the speedo drive and push it out... NO! (I don't think that would work anyway due to the design of the drive.. but it's a thought.)

First thing I thought of - it's the trip meter reset. Push in and turn, and watch the numbers on the odometer rotate.

I've butchered an old speedo cable to screw onto the threads to avoid damaging those; butchered as in: it used to be a complete speedo cable but pulling on it snapped the outer cover off... It's not moving at all, so plenty of penetrating oil and gentle tapping. I'm wary of heat on the alloy case... might end up with a shiny silver puddle....

Any tips for getting the speedo drive out? Stuck fast... and can't remove the rear extension casing until it comes out. There's nothing to put a puller on.

For sale: Triumph GT6 front brake pads. Fitted to my Triumph but never used.

You do wonder at some reviewers; I'm surprised someone didn't mark it down as it didn't spell their letters correctly.

Reminds me of a certain Triumph-based vehicle, too!

Almost the same lineup, and in colour too! Be like me - tighter than a duck's whatever - there are hundreds of photos on the Net, many are not copyright (usually watermarked) so search for Triumph Spitfire at Le Mans and browse happily away. Those wheels (magnesium?) would be worth a fortune today, or at least the modern versions as the originals would probably be beyond use due to corrosion and ageing. Here's where some of the cars ended up, too... minus the racing wheels...

They're standard-looking black shocks, nothing fancy - does that label read WORX towards the bottom right? (Top right in the photo) Seems to start with a blue 'W' but goes off round the corner.

It'll grow. Early days.

I'm going by Dr Slow's original post and the Monroe part number he provided for his rotoflex car, Doug; what I meant was that as the listed vehicles under that part number on this listing are all non-rotoflex, they can't fit both types. They should however fit GT6 from 1967 - 1968 and 1973s fixed and swing spring, (you might be able to claim the very first swing-spring models if they were built in 1972) so either the part number supplied in the first post is wrong, or the listing. Sorry for the confusion.

Here's an interesting pic - sorry, Babord for hi-jacking your original thread - but it may amuse GT6 owners; I found this one a year or two ago on a website that specialised in 'modernising' or 'streeting' older cars. This one was redrawn by a GT6 enthusiast and looks even more 'E-type' than it did back in the day. I wonder what Michelotti would have designed differently today?

Goshdurnit that was quick!! Shows how popular they are.... If the VW Beetle part is a fit can someone list the details in the 'Interchangeable Parts' section, for info of future enquirers?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-2-Pair-Alligator-Test-Lead-Clip-to-Male-Banana-Plug-Cord-Cable-1M-Red-Blac-2/223189253775?_trkparms=aid%3D1110009%26algo%3DSPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225076%26meid%3D0da48ae01c1540c39efbe5eab2c45165%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D333812534726%26itm%3D223189253775%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3Ddefault%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219 And the award for longest link of the year goes to: I've become very lazy in my old age so have bought these, and other kits like them, ready made - I've found them great for use in my own garage.

I was just about to put me feet in it and ask that those slots should be at the bottom? Then in the lower photo I saw the big clue...

The Unipart number drew a blank but these came up in a search for the Monroes: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Monroe-Original-Rear-Shock-Absorbers-Pair-R1543/390973781774 The seller lists them as suitable for all Heralds, Vitesse Spitfire and two models of GT6 1972 - 1973 which seems strange to me if the rotoflex versions differ from the non-roto. Rimmers list both Spax and GAZ versions of the GSA280 but does this require the bracket conversion? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spax-Adjustable-Rear-Shock-Absorber-Triumph-GT6-Mk2-Mk3-Rotoflex-68-70/311987463504?hash=item48a3e6e550:g:muMAAOSwETJZ74ka The club sells the full conversion kit including brackets and shocks: https://shop.tssc.org.uk/product/gazrotoconvk-rotoflex-rear-shock-conversion

This one of mine (gearbox) came second in a Tina Turner hairstyle lookalike contest a few years back... you can see from the threads narrowing towards the top that it's tapered.