Colin Lindsay
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Everything posted by Colin Lindsay
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That's the bottom line. A good solid car will be worth working on; anything else ends up a real money pit. I've had a few in my time...
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I put a TR5 camshaft into the GT6; it was terrible and I removed it very quickly. I just couldn't get it to run well at all.
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GT6. Headlinig/rear vents. Advice needed.
Colin Lindsay replied to chrishawley's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
Can you post a photo, Chris, then we can advise? The best I can do this morning is to post a photo taken from Mike Costigan's 'Guide to Originality' book; I can't find a single photo of this area anywhere on the Net but it may give you an idea of how it looks, compared to yours.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MX5-Mk1-Rear-Boot-Light-Brake-Light/123768956523?hash=item1cd134666b:g:KR4AAOSw6r5c3BWK That's an earlier version in the link; the one in the photo below lasted from 1999 to 2005. The Nissan Micra version is also very nice, as is the BMW Mini version, but you can buy stand-alone versions that will fit any car - a search for Universal High Level Rear Brake Light throws up quite a few.
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None of the cordless versions in two of my local branches; that leaves me one final port of call for tomorrow. I like the look of the battery charger. I also like the look of the windscreen cleaner... mine's almost grey on the inside, just found that out this morning when the car was cold...
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Yes, we had one of those, I suppose good in the dark, but the bit that freaked me out was that it turned off all the gauges, which dropped to zero - bar the speedo, which was now only illuminated for about two-thirds of the face.
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Nice!! I'm assuming the yellow tin isn't the acid you used ( ) but what did you use to get it so pristine looking?
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I thought that was just my idea!! I use two, both tops off old washing machines, for laying out parts of carbs etc in order of disassembly; you can write on them with a non-permanent marker and then wipe clean for next time. Great minds think alike!
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The stirrers taste better than the coffee in most, but go for the short stubby ones rather than the long thin ones - it may come down to the particular coffee shop but there are versions that are an inch shorter and a lot stiffer. I was mixing filler yesterday and they worked great. Of course you can always use two together for extra stiffness. You can also use wooden lollypop sticks, £1 for 50 in my local Poundshop. Never thought of using ear wax as cavity protection, after all it comes from a cavity and my ears have never rusted...
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Members will probably come down in favour of Lucas, but I run a Delco in the GT6 that was rebuilt by H+H solutions and it hasn't let me down yet. I've also got a Delco alternator for the Herald, just to be different!
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Starbucks or Costa Coffee - or in fact almost any coffee shop - next time you're in, lift a handful of the wooden stirrers. They're great for digging out old grease, prising trim off, stirring paint, mixing filler or cleaning out your ears.
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It really is poor - water is all over the car and in large drops on the bonnet, where the cover was hanging free between roof and front edge, so it's obviously come right through. The roof and rear screen were stuck to the cover with moisture. I really intended them for light outdoor use ie wheel the car out while I'm blasting or undersealing one of the others, or need a bit more room temporarily, but that test period was only 24 hours at most and it would have been less bother to put the car outside uncovered. So: I may return one, but keep the other two as indoor dust covers on unused cars. They're good value for that, especially as all of my old sheets end up being used for other things like home diy.
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And the verdict on the outdoor waterproof covers is: RUBBISH. The GT6 is soaking. 24 hours out, heavy rain last night, and it's just gone straight through. Use them as an indoor dust cover only.
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That will save a lot of skin - good idea!
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For doors undo any of the bolts - those holding the glass runners, for example - a few threads and earth to the bare unpainted metal now uncovered on the bolt shank.
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The sneaky ******** I ran a compatibility check and that one came up. I'll have to contact them now to make them aware.
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dashboard veneer attachment...
Colin Lindsay replied to ChrisTasmania's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
The long chromed screws go through both wood and surround and a spire nut / lock washer tightens at the rear. That's it! It doesn't attach to any of the bodywork. I usually fit the surround first and route the cables and wiring before adding the wooden front; that way you're less likely to damage the veneer. -
I'll give you a tip. Try harder.
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I used to find it on country roads at night - no streetlights, no other cars, just the headlights and the glow of the gauges. Turn them off and it's a different world, just the road ahead.
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Two things here - I know it's early morning and the coffee isn't working... but - changing the sump plug won't fish things out of your diff and secondly, if that's copper, it won't be magnetic... However this is a shorter version: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ferrari-360-Modena-Spider-Challenge-Magnetic-Sump-Plug-Neodymium-magnet/202657588889?fits=Car+Make%3ATriumph|Model%3ASpitfire|Cars+Type%3A1500|Cars+Year%3A1980|Plat_Gen%3A--|Variant%3A--+[1962-1980]+Convertible&epid=5017012088&hash=item2f2f556699:g:HqcAAOSwBLlU-DNg
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Being in Sconny Botland I'd have thought Chic Doig would be relatively close to you (unless you're really far North), he should have a good selection of second-hand ones.
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That one came from a Triumph Show, either Stoneleigh or Stafford, but they're widely available, including on eBay - just make sure they're Triumph compatible. (One on at present but at a whopping £17.99)
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GT6 is outside under its' new cover while I'm undersealing the TR7.... and it's absolutely BUCKETING down! This will be the acid test for the new cover...
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So what happens if you follow their advice of 'Never buy the first Spitfire you look at' and the it turns out to be a real cracker and miles better than any that follow?
