Colin Lindsay

Perhaps there should be an exemption from MOT testers under 40 years old? I've never had trouble with my local testers, but an over-the-counter conversation in Halfords, when I happened to mention that one of my cars was running over-rich, led to the advice of replacing one of the O2 sensors. When I explained that it didn't have one, I got a very sagely nod of the head, and the reply: "That's the reason, then."

I wonder if there is anyway that an adjustable bracket could be used in that area, so as to avoid drilling through the chassis? Just some kind of clamp that adjusts by screw-tightening against the forward face of the chassis crossmember, so as to use the strength of the chassis when towing, but avoids having to actually cut it? It's just the bodger in me thinking out loud, and as Dave says holes there might not be a bad idea, given the amount of water he found...

GT6 does have the fly-off handbrake, or is meant to. Was the later handbrake cranked due to having thicker seats, and so needed a steeper angle to allow the driver to grip it easily?

Half a ton of metal has arrived from the shotblaster; it was a ton when I sent it..... I got lazy and with my compressor only deciding to work when it wants to this was a quicker solution. He remembered blasting Herald parts for me back in 2008, and was amazed when I gave him the same parts again, still in primer, to be blasted a second time.... I must get that car started! Anyway the TR7 subframe has come up a treat, and has been etch-primed, rustproofed and is now in a coat of stonechip ready for the topcoat. Once painted I'll fill it with Waxoyl before refitting. I bit the bullet and went for polybushes all round. Expensive, but they look nice... The lower links were blasted, but in a fit of pennypinching I intended to reuse the original balljoints. Then, in a fit of remorse at being a miser, I decided they'd be full of blast grit, and was proved right once I took the rubber caps off. Corner cutting never works in the long run. I beat the old ones out with a large hammer - works for me - and pressed the new ones in using a vice before fitting the large circlip. My back muscles are still aching from hanging on the vice handle.They're a tight fit. That large circlip needs about four hands too. It's a job I'm glad to have completed, and got out of the way. I've no intention of taking these bits apart again, ever. I'm using polybushes on these too, and on the anti-roll bar. I'm stalled a bit as AJM Engineering can't machine the top cones to take the uprated strut top bearings until next week at the earliest. I'll just have to start on the propshaft and diff until they can fit me in. I can't complain as all it costs me is biscuits, and for a really big job - chocolate biscuits. For M&S Extremely Chocolatey Biscuits they'd sell me a 50% share in the business, but I've no room for all the machinery. All of the other bits, including the radiator support bracket, are now in their first light sprinkling of black primer ready for a few more coats and then the topcoat of gloss black. After that, le reassembly, as our French neighbours say.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-CBS-Locking-Petrol-Cap-Austin-Metro-3-Lug/370530378736?hash=item564554e3f0:g:3kgAAMXQxzZRflbL This one below is quite interesting in that it comes with an adaptor, so you could fit the adaptor then use any two-pin petrol cap - they're much more common. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Herald-Vitesse-Locking-Petrol-Cap-Kit-1959-to-1971/332479749063?hash=item4d69565bc7:g:9WAAAOSwSPBaU4BY

Ever had any dealings with these guys? https://www.gbsprings.co.uk/heritage-car-springs/

I'd try Holden too: https://www.holden.co.uk/c/electrical/lighting/interior_lamps I see they're listing that Rimmers light as a Rover P5 interior lamp; but they also have quite a nice looking model half way down the page, part number 010.446

So we're talking about replacing the original Triumph engine with a modern? (Hits Clive an exasperated slap) It's hardly fair to compare the BHP then, or any other characteristic. I'm sure my Mondeo is more comfortable and certainly quieter than my GT6, and better suited to long journeys. It won't help the OP get more power out of a Vitesse engine, though...

So what engine are we talking about?

Clive beat me to it, but that's the gen. Never tried to obtain a Courier spring - how difficult are they to find?

That's the exact post I was looking for, so thanks for that! I'm wondering if it's as simple as just selecting ' all words' as opposed to 'any', which gives me millions of results all at once...

You just beat me to it... photos available if you want to see what one looks like!

11 is normal for the convertible; my 1200 Estate only has about six or seven.

Guys and gals - any computer gurus out there can advise on how to narrow down a search? I'm trying to track down a post from early last summer which concerned the Practical Classics Triumph Herald / Vitesse Restoration Guide. If I search for the phrase above, it gives me absolutely every post that any of the words appear in, which is millions. I tried again but can't search for another so many seconds, so I wait. This time I put the word AND in between the words. It gives me every post containing the word 'and.' If I search the forum, it's usually for a set phrase, not every word which that phrase contains. Any ideas on how to narrow down a search, so that I get a manageable number of results?

It must have been hair-raising, going by Tim's hair..

I think the early cars had smaller crank bearings, certainly the centre ones on the crank, while the end ones were large; then Triumph went and made them all the same size, so the later bearings are all the same, but a different size to any of the earlier ones. Consequently you'll need to source four bearings, of two different sizes, none of which fit the later engines. If someone here doesn't have the spec, the size you need will be on the side of the old bearings (I don't have any reference data to hand showing the original dimensions) so if you can get a look at those, any good modern bearing company can advise on a suitable replacement. Pistons are probably all the same, but I'm not sure, given that the crank was strengthened, if the con rods are different. Start a thread in the restoration section and post plenty of photos; it's always appreciated by those who later on may do the same.

Looks good enough; those are correct Vitesse / GT6 trims and now that I can see it clearly, if the hub caps are all like that they're good for years with a bit of polish every so often. (Ignore my earlier post about the circular-holed trims; for some reason I mistakenly remembered the car as a 13/60, and had to read the earlier posts to confirm it's a Vitesse!)

Add to that: usually lots of noise, becomes uncomfortable to drive in normal use or on long journeys, and becomes expensive to insure.

Looks good! How's the interior?

Lack of available water, Pete - Scarva canal having silted up quite a bit, it wouldn't even float let alone sink. I must admit I'd be more worried about wet carpets in a U-boat than I ever was in a Triumph... (Das Boot.. isn't that where you keep das jack and das spare wheel?)

It all depends on what floorpan you have; are they original or where they ever replaced? Most floorpans available these days are a one-size-fits-all, usually designed for late Spitfires, and so earlier seats which are narrower won't line up with the mounting holes. When I had the floorpans in my early GT6 replaced, only two of the holes lined up, and I had to ignore the captive nuts on one side and drill new holes for the original seat runners. As the guys have posted already, that's a non-adjustable frame that someone has made themselves and so they've had to adapt the fittings. You should be able to obtain original runners and attach the seats as originally fitted, if you want to.

This is Mobil1 0-40W?

https://uk.motor1.com/news/304975/john-harold-haynes-dead-aged-80/ Sad news, John Haynes is no more. Never tried his U-Boat Owners Manual.... but he's been a great reference for almost every car I ever owned.

Didn't they do it right the first time?

I've always thought that silver wheels came on the 13/60, earlier cars had white; but it appears that although almost every Herald I've ever had had white wheels, some books, like Mike Costigan's excellent guide claim that all had silver except for the 12/50 and a few 1200s that slipped through the net. Hub caps look ok but those are a bit... dull... silver painted, maybe? Add a nice set of shiny ones to Santa's wishlist for next Christmas. I can't see if your car has wheel trims around the hubcaps or if it's just paint, but your car should have chrome trims with circular holes - not rectangular. sometimes period aftermarket trims were added by owners and they've a different pattern yet again. Mike's book is an excellent guide to our cars, but shop around as you can find it a lot cheaper than this one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Herald-Vitesse-Complete-Guide-by-Mike-Costigan/352592524131?hash=item521826f363:g:oOMAAOSw~61cWFm0