Colin Lindsay

Seems so, that photo was taken off the net a few minutes before my post. I tried a Bing search for 'flap seal rubber door trim' and got dozens of results. A firm called East Kent Trim Supplies seems to stock for the Herald - see profile 134 at the bottom right. http://www.classiccar-trim.com/phdi/p1.nsf/supppages/eastkent?opendocument&part=4

I've finally got the GT6 back on four wheels so next on the lift is the TR7. I think(!) the four lifting points are straightforward thanks to the photo I pinched off the TriumphExperience TR7/8 forums; some helpful poster has circled four points in red, but there are still some small points I want to clear up before putting the lift through the floor of the car whilst trying to get it off the ground. On each of the two front lifting points there is a small stud, about an inch long, that supposedly locates the jack Bottom left of photo you can see where one has been removed). My lifting pads are flat so I'll need to move inboard of these; is the floor still sufficiently strong to lift the car slightly inwards of these studs ie with the pad touching them? (Both my front floor pans are stove in, almost domed now, where the circular marking is in the photo due to POs being insufficiently careful about lifting the car, so there seems little room to manoeuvre). These circular areas, two front on the floor pans and two rear on the chassis arms are apparently NOT lifting points.) Should I use modified drilled pads to allow the stud to fit and so jack right on the factory point? At the rear point there are two tie-down brackets and both of mine are squashed almost flat. I can lift at this point and just squash them flatter, or what is the alternative? The rear subframe arms would do but that's not ideal for working on the rear suspension. Any ideas?

The preferred / original type was a single rubber flap, along the lines of the one in the photo below. Some of the versions of the tubular / round type are too thick, and won't allow the door to close sufficiently tightly, so that either the door sits proud of the bodywork, or else won't engage the locks at all.

That's nice!! Just a radio, or USB / aux input too? Where did you get that one from?

My brake pads are German, so I'm not going to conform either and from now on just won't stop at lights or junctions.

Tune in, press and hold the relevant station preset number, and it'll bleep to say that station is now stored. If it's forgetting them every time it's turned off, you haven't connected the yellow lead to a permanent live feed so that the memory stays powered and remembers the stations. I've now had mine for years and have no intention of changing, it's still one of the best I've ever owned. I've put a really cheap Chinese version (£11 off eBay) into the TR7 as a stop-gap as it's a small bodied version, no CD player to bulk it out so half the depth of a full-sized CD unit, but until I get the car running again I can't say how well it sounds.

Just a simple flap seal, how I miss Rarebits4classics for excellent stuff like that. Thankfully I bought a roll of the stuff from Bill for my 1200 that I haven't used yet, so can fall back on that. Round or oval seal won't allow the doors to close properly. One question Dave - is it a genuine factory convertible or a saloon conversion?

Amazing, isn't it? I have over 100 CDs on a USB stick in my car (still like to buy the actual physical CD though due to too many restrictions on downloads) The biggest decision these days is which head unit to buy to match the car. Rabbit - can you post a photo of your original radio and we can try to find a close modern match?

Only over a relatively long time, and you could probably coat it to minimise any reaction.

I think the max stored was about five, or that's what I've currently kept for some future reference or other..... most are deleted once they are read or replied to. I just find it very strange that this one has gone completely when all the others are still there, even older messages, so was wondering if he's left the club completely? (Taking my loaned items with him?)

Not so sure about the chicken but I've seen a bodged egg....

Famous quote from a few years back on a potential new purchase: "Does it take much oil?" "Aye it would take it, if it could get it...." Re John D - the oldish Triumph Restoration guide by Peter Williams and Lindsay Porter has a photo of a car with a remote oil filter adaptor, see the section on page 236, where they also state: "Herald and Spitfire owners learned long ago that fitting the correct Unipart oil filter (or EXACT equivalent) with an anti-drain valve, not just a look-alike, cures the problem."

Or is that Badger the bodge maker? Does he badge every bodge, or bodge every badge?

You actually need a curved bolt; I have one fitted to my own column joint and it lines up perfectly where a straight one won't. No idea where it originally came from but I always reuse it with a new nyloc.

It certainly gave me an easier life. (I fitted one to one of my other cars.... 😊 )

The Spitfire had a screw-on filter from new, so it all depends on the filter; you need an anti-drain version or it's the same as the old canister filters on the GT6. Sometimes something as simple as an oil and filter change can work wonders. Nathan - watch how quickly the green oil light extinguishes on startup, it should go out very quickly.

I had a Maestro City, it had nothing, not even five gears. I used to call in at my local breakers and get all of the optional parts off other cars, usually for pennies, and add them. By the time I sold it, it was quite a luxury 5-speed model.

Very easy to find (except when you really need one!) You can either buy a complete unit from somewhere like eBay and replace yours with that - it's sometimes simpler in the long run, especially if you need the car and so can just do a complete swap, or where the one you have is very rusty and starting to look moth-eaten and raggedy. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Spitfire-IV-SpitfireIV-1500-Twin-Speed-Heater-Matrix-Motor/323268189060?hash=item4b44491b84:g:seMAAOSwKtlWoiUF Seeing as how you've removed yours already, you'll get that small bit from any of the good(!) breakers - try Chic Doig, details in The Courier. you can e-mail him the photo to confirm the bit you need, especially if like me you never know the proper name for that bit..

I normally keep important messages and delete all the more common / answered ones to keep the mailbox clean, and as a result have messages from way back as a reference for certain things. I'm trying to locate a message / conversation from earlier in 2018 but it seems to have disappeared, even though I still have earlier messages from other members. Does this happen if someone leaves the forum - does all data, messages etc become deleted? I don't think forum posts do (photographs maybe) but does all else vanish? I need a certain member's details, including his home address, but only had them as part of a private mail conversation; consequently I don't have his user name or any other details in any other format. What's the situation regarding storage of messages?

I was joking?

That must be a late MK3. Very late, as in: we're not making any more of these, so what do we do with all this left over fuel hose?

I started to paint a ceiling earlier in the week. Gave up after four inches. Someone find me a painter.

You mean a badge?

That's the overflow from filler cap area so if it leaked two gallons, where's it coming from?

Thanks Paul, gotya now. Last time I saw that sort of thing was a petrol tank where the breather had failed and the pump sucked it almost completely flat; I trust that's not the case with this? The grommet at the top has to let air back in as the engine sucks the water back again; possibly if the bottle was hot and thereby softened it may distort like that?