PeteH

I have so far trial fitted the mx5 seats to the 13/60. Without headrest they clear the hood frame Until I get A new hood fitted I won’t know if the headrest will clear Pete

I considered that too, but from a strictly engineering viewpoint such heat transfer surface is minimal?. Maybe a hangover from earlier models of car which used the engine?. What is a puzzle too, would be the fact that C-I and Alloy, have different expansion rates, to the point that I would be reluctant to bolt them to gether, in two planes, if I was doing the designing?. Bit of a Mystery?, I wonder if anyone know`s the definitive answer?. In Colin`s situation I would be inclined towards removing the stud (if possible) and fettling the bracket, interposing a washer and the rebolting. Or even putting a "c" washer in if the stub won`t come out?. Pete

I`ve had them Repair a screen, with success?, but taking out scratches?, is IMV problematic. And, as Pete pointed out, would potentially leave an area under the blade which would never properly clear. It would /might be an MOT fail? I know it does not apply to the bulk of "our" cars, Up to `82 being exempt? but still. I`m still on the lookout for a Herald screen, mine shatterd during removal 😭. There are a couple about from various sources. but all too far away to collect for me at the present time. Rightly no one want`s to "guarantee" safe delivery of a "fragile" item, so freight is the biggest risk. Pete

What I know about My car, is that the head Has been off, as it was replaced with an "unleaded" conversion from Club Shop in the 90`s. I can only speculate that when reinstalling it the two manifolds where pulled up togther with Throttle bracket in between and the manifold bolts then hardened up? Canley Show :- https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-herald-13/60&diagram=triumph-herald-13/60-manifold-details But no indication that the bracket is monted there?. No indication on the Accellerator Dig:- https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-herald-13/60&diagram=triumph-herald-13/60-acceleration-control I am inclined to the thought that the mount is supposed to be from where Stevo`s is? and not as Mine?. But why the stud and Nut Bolt on the centre in the first place?. Pete

Just had a look at mine?. It`s hardened up and (very) tight.? I am thinking, it may have to be hardened up BEFORE hardening up the Exhaust and Inlet manifold Bolts?. Pete

As kid`s,That had a whole different context to it. And was the source of much hilarity, when the word re-appeared in Star Trek. 😂. More so when some band came out with a song "Star Trekin". Pete.

The ones on mine, at least 4 where so weak i cut them off and replaced them. The sill`s themselves where in surprisingly good condition just some front end refurbishment, where they fasten to the Tubs. Pete

It`s the current ongoing job on the 13/60, getting them aligned and secured is a bit of a Nightmare!, the tabs should have "oval" holes , I assume to allow flexibility of alignment?. I`ve used self drilling self tap screws. The most awkward are those at the rear, which screw up from inside the rear Section. I "toy`d" with the idea of welding them on altogether!. Pete

Hi. Looks like some project?. The big issue is How the chassis is. Mine turned out to have more chassis issues. Hence the full body off "restoration" (ongoing). Looking at the pic`s. This was`nt at a Farm in the Stamford area was it?. I looked at one similar, back in 2015, The seller wanting far more then than I would put up. Onward and upward👍 Pete

Not sure how much "help" this may be but, This is what I found:- I measured the distance between the pivot bolt and the lowest bolt on the support bracket, as +- 7". At this the bonnet, lines and gaps look as:- The Connecting Brackets are original, (size) set on the maximum height possible. Pete.

The last Time I saw the one for the 13/60, it looked decent nick, however having started to "refurbish" the Tunnel cover with F-G resin and mat. My thought is to maybe coat it as well?. In the interest of prolonging life?. Pete

Somewhere on this forum, there is a "distertation", which shows a DIY method, I think Curtesy of "uncle Pete". involving lenghts of wood and string?. A trawl of the Chassis and suspension thread might be in order?. Your obviously closer to that point than I. I`m only just starting to Paint Prep;. Once primed all my seams will be covered with a flexible sealer where not obvious. and some more sound insulation is in the pipeline too. Pete

Likely, someone in theIr wisdom thought the manner in which the ends where formed was lacking strength? and chose to stiffen the attachment point?. Probably a "modification" in early existance, and not factory?. In fact I would not be surprised, should you remove said item, that you may not find traces of cracking in the original?. Pete

I`ll, see if I can get some pic`s Sunday. At this time the car is surrounded by stuff I threw out of the Motorhome locker, to get at the electrics!, without breaking my back in the process. Pete

IF in doubt, a quick measure would be to run a Jump cable between the Battery Negative and the one of the Starter motor bolts which should prove (Or not) the viability of the Earthing?. A BAD earth will shunt current all over the shop looking for a return path. Throttle cables are favourite. But smaller earth cables can suffer too. Pete

The Number intrigues me, 1) It`s a HULL Registration (RH), 2) Its a 1971 Reg so even if a 1970 build it should be a 13/60 Bonnet?. Or where they producing the two models in Tandem?. And those over ridders dont look "right" either? Pete

I had the opposite thought, It`s less flexible in cold temperatures, My thought was to do it on a sunny day on the drive. Now all we need is the Heatwave.👍😁 Pete

Loking at the Canley Drawing, it appears to be effectively a two part cable with a sleeve in the centre where it passes through the Bulkhead? https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-herald-13/60&diagram=triumph-herald-13/60-acceleration-control Pete

Colin, I was thinking along the lines of using a Jack or similar, between the end of the Tube(s) and the most forward support bracket, to see if the "gap" could be modified, If however you have it removed it may be possible to achieve the same with a length of Scaffold tube or similar?. Do you know what distance you have (roughly)?. I`ll measure the 13/60 later this a.m. and post up. Pete

When I was doing mine, (still at it) I theorised that the Curve of the tubular support had compressed?. Never measured the distance, but that would make getting the front of bonnet line High enough?. People having sat on the bannet for example could set it down?. Pete

If you are contemplating a sale, Don`t do the paint. As N-M says, you will not get the cost back. and what you potentially lose will not be as much as the cost of the paint job. The other point is valid too, If I was veiwing a fresh paint job there would be the "suspicion" that it could be part of a cover up?. Pete

Whilst it may have little bearing on the current situation. I note the throttle cable arm is not in line with the adjusting screw?. It there damage, or "stiction" to/on the actual spindle?. If excessive wear on the spindle and bearing Air will be drawn into the body affecting the performance> Pete

I could do with something similar?. Pete

Looking at the state of that tap fitting, I would be extremely cautious of trying the get it out. Pete

The biggest problem is, as I discovered, that over time virtually all paint will fade. Chris` A`s idea is maybe the best way of getting a match for the colours as it is. I was repainting a door and wing on a Fiat Punto some years back. I took, part of, the mangled wing to a supplier and they matched it such that it was difficult to notice any colour change at all. especaily after I "ran it out" into the rear panels. Failing anything else I would seriously consider taking a Door, or even the boot lid? Pete