PeteH

Sounds daft, but is the passenger side cone in the right place?. Pete

I think the word could be “verdigris”. Loves copper.!

Colin, l had similar issue when I first remounted the bonnet. My solution was similar, involving panel hammer and dolly on the rear edge of the wheel arches both sides, which allowed the bonnet gaps to close up properly. In my case I assume that some error crept in, due to having made repair to said items involving their removal.?. anyway👍 that’s the end of it? Pete

If you have access to a welder?. Drive a large nut over the damaged square, weld the nut to the the Plug, you can then use a socket to remove the plug, which with any luck will have eased with the heat from the welding?. Pete

Tell me about it!!!. I`m still removing and replacing the Cill`s, to attempt to get them to line through and look "right". Pete

Took some photo`s of my Engine Earlier, For reference, and the Plug does indeed appear to be a tapered square head type:-

Don`t know if this is of any assist?. The dimension from the Bulkhead to the top of the overider bracket (above). is 880mm. Passenger side. And 882mm Driver side. Pete

Often clearing the cache will do it, reset’s the system, but it slows up some new searches. Pete

Huge swathes of "industry" use crimped connections, not just the automotive side. Properly made, there will be little to go wrong. Decent ratchet crimpers are to be had if you do online search. Just run a Battery conection front to rear on my (7.5M) camper, tests out well and the "drop" is negligable. Not everyone will do it, but I (as often as I rember) dip the wire end into some Vasseline before crimping up, (old habbit`s die hard) a throwback to marine work, where corrosion can be a big problem. On "classic" work I can see the the "purist`s" might look down their noses, at multicoloured crimps. But we all have choices, and so long as it`s safe and reliable?. Heatshrink sleeving can be useful. (and an old hairdryer). Pete

Another "Vote" for beer, although Oil is getting (even) more expensive lately. (Oil and filter for a 2009 Mercedes Sprinter = £123, (2020) and that is now 20% higher!!, Damn Putin!!) Jury`s out on Electric fans, (My View). Where`s the "new"/"old"thread?. Pete

13/60. Engine Parts (Canley 114774) shows what appears to be a Tapered plug. (as does the Vittesse 2L parts list) Used properly, it will seal, without "goriila" pressure, PTFE wouldnt hurt, although It should not be necessary. Looking at the O-P`s photo. The Sump does appear to have a decent flat face? if so it should take a shoulder`d plug and seal washer?, if you can find one. Which to my mind, is the better "engineering". Pete

Look for one that uses an "Allen" type fitting.? Similar?. Pete

My Lathe toolpost spanner is a dead ringer for those square ends.👍. I thought the correct Plug was straight and Had a Copper Washer seal?. Am I wrong or right?. I will now have to slope off and look at the 13/60 Sump?????. (Maybe in Morning) Pete

I`ll bet back in the 1960`s That sapped power from the (alleged) 60bhp!!. Bad enough seeing the fuel consumption rise on SWMBO`s modern when it`s switched in!. Pete

The other Plaque, should read K. I. S. S. Overcomplicating anything, leads to:- Stress, High B.P. And a rapidly emptying bank account.😭 Pete

You mean the next ice age that we where heading for back in the 1980`s?. Pete

My thinking has returned to the "Bonnet hinge tube assembly" (12 612479). And the problems Colin has/had with his 13/60.?. On that one I theorised that the curve of the tube had been effectively "squashed" and this had reduced the height of the bonnet front, using the Bonnet attaching link via the slot to effect adjustment then emphasises any error elswhere. The tube assembly could easily be deformed in my view, by (say) someone having sat on the bonnet, in it`s past?. Pete

We had one, who was known, to us "choirboys" as being (shall we say) "Suspect". Pete

That sounds like my knees?.😁. Spent more time on them (working) than our Vicar does. Pete

Just had a look an the 13/60. This is the current arangement on that.:- And the bonnet" gap" line. (and all the Motorhome "tat" stored on top, pending it`s being relocated back, following the latest "expedition" in wire tracing !!🙃) Pete Pete.

Shrunk in the wash?😁 Pete

I must have a closer look at mine now, I did not pick up on that. what I now notice Colin, is that mine is below the exhaust manifold not between the inlet/exh manifolds? Pete

The “trick” was to wind a grommet from hemp. Coated with “boss” white they filled a shed load of jointing issues. Even on LP steam. Some factories virtually survived on such simple devices. Especially with Yorkshire born “Gaffers”. On triple expansion steam engines in the old Trawlers it was often the only thing between a Tow and getting home on your own. Pete

Ian, Is the any mileage in just shortening the tappet screws. It`s 40+years since I went playing with a Vitesse Engine. But most have just a Square on the end for adjustment and a Lock screw, Careful work with a dremel or similar might reduce the clearance sufficiently?. OR thinking laterally, maybe there is enough thickness in the alloy Cover to do a little judicious fettling?. With the engine running satisfactorily as is, that too may be an option?. Pete

I realise I may be wrong here, but if you have 40thou shims under the pedestals, removing them and having 40thou ground off the valve stem length (if they will stand it) should lower the whole?. Then it`s up to the adjuster?. 40thou is just a tad over 1mm?. Do you still have the old valves?. If so, check the length from the valve face to the Collet notch, and the Overall Length, there could be an error there?. Someone told me, that non o/e stuff, often is used in more than one engine?. With the same part number coming up on different marques? Pete