Anglefire

We had bacon butty in the morning after the youngest got back from work. (actually on a toasted bagel - best way to have them even though it’s slightly contrary given the tradition of the bagel 😂)

Our chippy has been open a few weeks. We have been the once but don’t have it too often. my neighbour had just got her 5* hygiene rating just before the lockdown to start an Indian takeaway service from home. that got held up a few weeks but I think she is starting up next week now she has her boxes and suppliers sorted. did have a sample for lunch yesterday and it was very good. So will try and sample a proper takeaway from her soon.

Yes I did - a nice cold one out of the fridge we have brought into service because our main fridge keeps filling up as we have more stuff that needs to be in it - (it normally lives in the car - its a very efficient camping fridge that uses very little power and will go down to -18'c if needed.) Had it with sausage egg, beans and chips Lovely

I know someone who fitted one and he reckons it overcools. I just went for a full width one from Canley Classics https://www.canleyclassics.com/heating-and-cooling/spitfire-full-width-radiator Fits properly and does the job in my view - yes its a bit more money (About £50) but worth it in my opinion.

I replaced my wiper motor today as the old one was well past its best and didn't park and looked crap to be honest. Got one from Canley classic's plugged it in and it didn't work Took the cowling off to check the switch - no good - but did have power - didn't have power at the plug apart from the permanent feed for the park function. After much faffing and frustration - came down to a poor earth. The bolt the two earth's are tied to wasn't fully home. 🙄 Need a beer now as I could have finished it about an hour earlier 😜

With the fuel pipe routed that way, is there enough play for any engine movement? I'm guessing there must be - but it would concern me if I'm honest. I wouldn't be concerned with the heater going through the expansion loop particularly - though there could be an argument it would heat up the clutch fluid - but not enough to cause an issue I wouldn't have thought.

That sounds like my Modern - the auto box starts in first - but is in 2nd quicker than you can say the first part of "A" and only drops back into first if you actually stop. (DSG box in a Skoda Superb)

I’ve seen a lot worse to be fair. It will need a top coat fairly quickly as I think undercoat is porous

Looking at the standard of welding from YouTube video's - you have done a good job - and anyway it seems to me that you don't need to be a good welder, just good with a grinder 🤣

Perhaps multi grade wasn’t popular back in the day? I know my vw beetle 1200 was on sae30 oil and none detergent too. Changed every 3000miles. Oil filter was a gauze mesh in the sump.

But in a carb the temperature change is not significant- compared to inside an engine. So the thickness at the operating temperature in would have expected to be similar?

It’s the grade that SU recommend - but 20/50 is what triumph recommended. take your pick. I actually bought some 20Sae chain oil and use it in mine. But when it runs out I shall just use engine oil.

Try YouTube. It pretty much is my goto these days as there is not much that hasn’t been video!

If you had watched binky, you would know that tea is the essential ingredient

Oops. I didn’t read on to the next page before posting 😂

Would the water content (primarily thinking of the water injection products) in effect raise the compression ratio as well as vaporising and expanding when the bang occurs? or at least the theory.

And your point is what exactly 😂😂

Rh is indeed a relative measure so simply changing the air temperature from low to high will reduce the humidity. going the other way then the amount of water vapour in the air remains the same - until it gets to dew point, which is the point the air can no longer hold the amount of water that is in it so it falls out as liquid (rain!) I can do the sums to get the amount of water in the air. there is a lot more to this than I suggest but is interesting as Clive says. given forced air engines nearly all (modern ones 100%) have intercoolers to reduce the charge air Temperature then there has to be something to it - though those temperatures are significantly higher than normally aspirated engines I will get some loggers setup in the engine bay when this is all over and see if there is anything significant going on

Ok, I'll do it another way. at 15'C and 75% RH (Not unreasonable) the density of air is 0.0062453kg/m3 That same air heated to 75'C now has an RH of 3% (Its not gone below dew point which is still 10'C, so no vapour has been removed) It now has a density of 0.0053295kg/m3 That's a difference of less than 1% Do the same thing with 15'C air at 50% and heat it to 75'C and the dew point is now -6 so the air density has changed and id now denser but by less than 1% As I say, I don't think its significant most of the time and there must be other reasons for the cold air theory. (I used https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/air-density to get the raw data)

To be honest, I think temperature changes are fairly insignificant when you compare the density of air with respect to humidity. Air Temp Air Pressure Air Density Difference % change from previous 5'C Dry Air 1000pa 0.0125245kg/m3 25'C Dry Air 1000pa 0.0116843kg/m3 0.0008402 7% 50'C Dry Air 1000pa 0.0107804kg/m3 0.0009039 8% 75'C Dry Air 1000pa 0.0100063kg/m3 0.0007741 8% Air Temp RH Air Pressure Air Density 15'C 25% 1000pa 0.0101416kg/m3 15'C 50% 1000pa 0.0081935kg/m3 0.0019481 24% 15'C 75% 1000pa 0.0062453kg/m3 0.0019482 31% Of course the reality is a mixture of all of that because for a given outside condition, the air entering the engine will be different as heating it will reduce the RH and the RH going down increased the density, but the rising temperature will have dropped the density.

Hi John, I wasn't thinking that deep actually - but what you have written is interesting - I do like these sort of sums! - I was more thinking of the practical "feel" when driving hard! I don't do them as it's not my area of expertise, but similar calculations are done in air conditioning ductwork for maximum speeds - though ultimately everything is rule of thumb with maximum speeds for given noise ratings (NR) - occupied spaces are normally between 2 and 10m/s (400-2000ft/min)

It probably relates more to emissions that anything else (As a thought - no science!)

They won't do any harm - though they "could" restrict the amount of air available to the engine - but in truth I doubt its of significance unless you are running on the red line all of the time - racing for example. Perhaps @JohnD could provide some wisdom?

I really must get my temperature loggers lashed up to the car to measure the temperature in front of and by the filters to see how much temperature difference there actually is. I suspect very little, but more than happy to be proven wrong. 😀

And some pictures. The one hose is very long - compared to the other one - but sweeps around quite nicely.