Anglefire

Our first dishwasher was top of the range - used 2 programs I think. Broke when the youngest climbed in and the circuit board went wrong as was more than a new machine. So bought the same make (Bosch) but simpler - but took the better idea bits out of the old one and the bottom trim piece.

Doug. Driving in the uk - at least on the main roads and motorway network is tedious and boring much of the time and stressful. I have to do a lot for work (though the last 3months or so have dropped significantly due to a job in London and I let the train take the strain) But driving country lanes can be more fun in any car but more so in the spitfire - and driving abroad (not done it in the spit yet) is generally a lot less stressful and that is particularly due to less traffic (except the obvious hot spots of Paris Brussels etc) and the roads just seem easier to drive. I did Calais to south of munich in one day in the summer - over 600miles - and was fine. Not sure I’d want to do that sort of mileage in the uk in a day and feel ok at the end.

I’ve just been thinking (a rare thing indeed) and most of the current “Toys” are for “safety” - it will brake itself at low speed and at higher speed will buzz and put a red warning on the dash. but I’m convinced it’s because you are so insulated by the cars comfort from the world outside that they have to add the toys to remind you. Old cars on the other hand you can feel the road beneath you and you know the limit of adhesion just by the seat of your bum and the feel of the steering.

Adaptive cruise is also very good in traffic. I wouldn’t be without cruise on my daily. I’ve had it for most of the last 15years or so - v reg was my first car with cruise. I did have 2 years with a defender which didn’t have it.

And all that was £50k? Pretty incredible given nothing in the list is considered unusual these days.

My previous car, a BMW 530D M sport, had a "Sport" display as one of the many toys and it showed a dial of both torque and power - occasionally I looked at it and it was surprising how little around either dial either went in normal driving - yes I could get the power around to dial to 250+ bhp but it was very short lived and was a proper holigan! driving at 70mph and it was 50 or 60 bhp from memory.

I would venture all of them pretty much! and more. The cruise on my Skoda is active and I’m pretty sure standard across the model range - abs I think is a legal requirement these days.

Iron? Don’t use one very often. My casual shirts and trousers don’t need it and my work clothes don’t get it - I used to iron them but by the time you’ve driven anywhere they are creased anyway so stopped about 2-3 years ago. I probably iron something three times a year?

Our Samsung is 4 years old - replaced a Dyson we had had for about 15 years which after the initial niggles fixed under warranty was brilliant but the bearing went finally. Just had about 5 or 6 weeks of pain with the Samsung. It has a 5 year warranty but has taken 5 visits to fix it (I hope!) 3 with new parts, two with the wrong parts - though the 2nd visit was with "incorrect" parts that were fitted (including a new drum) on visit 5. I suspect if the parts declared not correct on visit 2 were actually fitted then, it would have been fixed at that point and the replacement main board was not needed. Did feel like it was a Land Rover main dealers service department and just had the parts bin thrown at it

In My old Land Rover discovery (2006) it was very hard to replace (used to be near impossible until recently I think) the head unit in the cars with the better stereo - because it was the master unit for one (fibre) of the comms networks (it had three, high speed, low speed and fibre ). One way was to do a lot of messing and reconfiguring of the config file to get it downgraded as well as network changes. And as said before, the clock on the dash would disappear. (It the firmware was the later version ) I never bothered- it was ok - made a noise. As it was originally designed by ford I would think the mondeo is very similar.

To me the pittings doesn't look too bad - but temper that with the fact that I know nothing! If it were me and I'd got the engine that far into bits, I would change it - I bought a new one for my spitfire from Newmans Cams - not sure if your engine is in this list http://www.erstellen.co.uk/newman-cams/PRICELIST-BROCHURE_2019-TRIUMPH.pdf You obviously have the issue of shipping and the price doesn't include the new followers - which will have to be new for the warranty, but not necessarily theirs. A reprofiled cam is another option - but you have to take into consideration the hardening of the lobes and whether they reharden them after the new profile is cut or not (Or if you can!) becuase if the hardening has been breached, you will be changing it again fairly quickly.

No offence taken. I don’t know what I’ll use yet. Not sure I have much at all in mine at the moment. There isn’t much under the foot well at the moment so anything I think will be an improvement 😂

I aim to change my carpets - and will fit some form of sound deadening material - but not sure I could cope with heavy - not given my current weight 🤣🤣

I bought was given one of these for Christmas https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FKHNF4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Can't comment on its efficacy as I've not used it yet! Hopefully will over the next few days - when I either have finished the tiling or have to take a break from it!

If it was me I would hard wire it to a 13A fused outlet and not a plug and socket. Or an isolator. Ideally on a separate circuit.

Why stainless? I didn't think stainless was always the best material due to it not being as strong (in some parameters at least). Curious that's all!

Mine arrived yesterday with the courier 👍

If you do have waxstats on your carbs - and the 1500 did as far as I know (Mine did!) then you can remove them with either a kit of bits to convert to conventional jets or use a couple of pennies. Instructions on how to do the latter are here http://ekalakal.com/gallery/albums/userpics/SU_Waxstat_Jet_Tube_Conversion.pdf

Put it back to points 😂 not uncommon for electronic ignition to fail either.

Fuel starvation as Pete alluded to Either the wrong pump is fitted (even if you can these days) or restriction in the fuel lines. Given it will accelerate for a short while it’s going to be fuel line related 95% sure. If they aren’t new, then I would fit R9 rubber in place - and get it from somewhere like the club shop as you know it will be the correct stuff and not fake stuff.

Do look interesting - though I can't remember the last time I was out in the dark! But when did that factor into any buying decision? The big thing for me would be the reduction in current.

A friend of mine mother had a reliant kitten. And the gearbox has to be rebuilt. So he took it apart and had it all nicely laid out ready for rebuilding. his mother came along a tidied it all up. 😳 hadn’t a clue what bit matched what bit. So he had to beat guess. Did work again - though he wasn’t happy. 😂

One serious suggestion I have is to have lots of small containers to put the various bits in for the main components - for example, a box for the rocker shaft and nuts/bolts, box for carbs etc. Makes it a lot easier when you come to put it all back together. Even if you plan to replace most, you will know what should go where! And buy good quality parts - particularly bearings and the internal bits. Don't buy stuff just because it's cheap!

Thanks Colin - that looks interesting - my limitation will be the length of the hoses. But there is enough to get the cooler in front of the rad and in a decent position.

I did a review on the apartment I was staying in when I was down the smoke for the last couple of weeks. Somehow it was rated as "Good" - but given its actually very hard to give a bad one since there is only one option of less than good and 3 for good or better, its bias. Still I did write some words that did give more detail!