Gary Flinn

I fitted slightly longer studs to my Vitesse (Although the standard 3/8" UNF Type) when I fitted some D1 Replica alloys without removing the hub, have you tried to fit the new studs first at an angle then straightening them as they enter the hole in the hub? If they are extra long then you will definitely need to remove them or drill holes. Although the Rotoflex Hubs aren't normally as tight as the swing axle ones, they are still a pretty tight fit (Or should be!). I would still advise using a proper Triumph hub type puller to stop any possible damage to the flanges? Gary

I made some slightly Longer and thicker straight versions in Stainless steel when I rebuilt my Vitesse? I cut a slightly longer slot in them to help give more adjustment too Can you not file aware slightly the part that catches without compromising the strength?

I don't think this will fit Pete, the original finisher is narrower and from memory simply wedges between the door and Quarter light. Way back in the early 1980's I managed to get a full set of Inner and Outer weather strips and finishers from my local Leyland dealer, Service Motors The short Finisher next to the quarter light isn't vital and on a Vitesse you don't see it anyway, it's hidden by the door capping?

I've just had a look at a photo of my old Vitesse engine bay during it's restoration and the Cable from the Starter Solenoid to Battery runs that way, the brake pipe definitely runs behind the Heater box.

Looks like it needs a regrind on the Mains for sure, the Big end Journals don't look too clever either? These used to be available from TD Fitchetts at Telford (I purchased one for the rebuild of my Mk2 Vitesse engine way back). Not sure if they still have any left though?

Beware the dreaded E10 Fuel coming to your local garage soon! https://r1.ddlnk.net/6CY0-1WIQ-2C1C15FD614F99BCND1YA97C651BD6243892F/cr.aspx

I have had a few issues recently with starting and Rough running with my current Classic car which I suspect was down to oldish Fuel although I don't know for sure? After cleaning out a Needle Valve on the carb and adding some new Fuel the car started 2nd turn of the key and ran as smooth as ever?!! I've had recent E-Mail correspondence with Martin the guy who is the latest custodian of my old Vitesse and he told me the car recently refused to start after a 6 month lay-up. He drained the Fuel and replaced with new and the car started up 1st time? He also stated he's subsequently used the old drained fuel in his Petrol Lawn Mower and it was fine when used in that. There is no doubt this new modern Fuel can cause trouble with old cars, in particular the Carbs & Petrol pumps. I hope all you fellow classic car owners have changed your hoses to the Latest R9 or R14 Specification too.🤔

I have read about these possible cracking problems with that style of Cosmic wheel, presumably no way of carrying out any sort of repair with them being cast? I've also read similar story's regarding Magnesium Wheels manufactured in the 1960's becoming brittle and dangerous. Always liked the look of the Cosmics, it's a shame they aren't available new, I know JBW Wheels make Dunlop DI Replica's which are very popular, maybe they ought to do The Mk2 Cosmic's to suit Triumph & Ford vehicles, I'm sure they would sell well. PS - Just noticed that JBW Wheels do supply a similar style wheel to the Mk2 Cosmic's but only in 10" and 15" 5 Stud Gary Cosmic Mk2.html

I'm sure one of the suppliers does a Cover to suit in GRP or ABS?

Spot on, this Ethanol in fuel is doing weird things to old car fuel systems, Carbs & Fuel Pumps? Had a recent flooding problem on my car which I'm convinced was due to lack of use and crappy modern Petrol. Get out in your classics on a regular basis, that's the secret😉 I must use mine more🤔

They don't look good at all! I personally wouldn't risk driving the car with the Rotoflex couplings in that condition, if one lets go it can be nasty, ruin your drive shafts and you may end up spinning off the road? I have seen genuine ones for sale at Car shows and Auto-jumbles for reasonable prices, trouble is no Car shows at the moment although Auto-jumbles may be starting up soon now the restrictions on Outdoor markets have been lifted? Remember, keep an eye out on E-Bay they do come up occasionally, although be prepared to pay a premium.

This is from an old thread about Rotoflex couplings:- "When I was struggling to find genuine Metalastic donuts about ten years ago - for a reasonable price - I found some in stock at Bailey Morris Propshafts, in Cambridge ? They were new manufacture by Trelleborg, who have bought the rights to the Metalastic brand and are made to the same standard. Trelleborg make a lot of different size donuts as they are commonly used in propshaft couplings. Might be worth a try... Gav" I've no idea if Trelleberg still make the Rotoflex coupling to original Specification, I do remember them being near on £200 Each though! Some of the reproduction Couplings last longer than others, not sure if the ones with the letters G&M are long lasting or not? One things for sure it is a time consuming and often unpleasant job to replace them and I can see why the CV conversions are very popular. I was lucky that when I rebuilt my rear Rotoflex suspension, genuine Metalastic couplings where still available from James Paddocks, I reckon I paid £45 each for genuine ones in the Unipart Boxes, they are still on the car to the best of my knowledge 12 years and around 15,000 miles after fitting? PS - You may get lucky and find genuine ones on E-Bay?

155 or 165 width is ideal for a 4.5J Rim? I had 175/70 Uniroyal Rain experts on 5.5J rims on my old Vitesse. They looked good, worked well in the Wet or dry and the steering was manageable if a bit heavy when parking, but fine when up to speed?

Why not disconnect the LT lead to the coil and crank over till the Oil light goes out and you get a reading on your gauge? Like Colin says, it can take several seconds for the Oil filter to fill up and pressure to build up (Presumably you have changed the Filter too?).

What about this beauty currently for sale? https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1234076

I reckon the Mk1 2 Litre Vitesse was Black, the later Mk2 Silver. Although knowing Standard Triumph it may have changed on the 2 Litre Mk1 halfway through Production!

I've found an image of one very rusty bump stop posted by a guy called Chris from Tasmania back in May 2017! Here's the Image, doesn't help you with dimensions though I'm afraid😐

Phil As stated by Gav the Mk2 Vitesse had a bump stop for the end of the Leaf spring to contact on full bump because there is no stop on the Lever arm dampers on full bump only on full droop. I'm afraid I don't have any Photo's of the location, I know I had to repair mine as they are very prone to rusting, I'm sure someone on here posted some Photographs and queries on there Mk2 Vitesse with regards to repairs. You will also find you will need to remove your Handbrake guides from your Mk2 rear tub and weld onto the Herald Tub, its well worth while reinforcing these with extra metal when you weld them in place, they have a habit of failing and pulling away from the tub due to Metal fatigue over time. Regards Gary

Could very well be the OS UJ Making the noise, its normally very difficult to find any play because everything is under tension (Unless things have got really bad!) Worn UJ's can make knocking or ticking noises relevant to road speed and the halfshaft ones are normally the first to wear, its important when replacing them to ensure the correct thickness circlips are used to ensure no end-float (Is that the right word?) in the new UJ Cups.

Haggis My comments adjacent your queries? Regards Gary

Later cars simply had a hole with a Rubber flap over it?

Have you measured the Free Arc and Eye to Eye measurements as per the chart posted by Clive? Hopefully similar to the measurements detailed for the Mk1 Vitesse, your ride quality should be much improved with no bottoming out now😊

One of the reasons for a harsh ride on both types of Vitesse rear suspension is seized bolts and in particular the trunnions. If Adjustable dampers are fitted and adjusted with to hard a setting, this can also give a harsh and choppy ride.. The Mk2 Vitesse with the standard Lever Arm Dampers in good condition gives a good ride, probably better than the early Swing Axle suspension? Regards Gary

I Take it you have drained the old fuel and put some new in the Tank? 12 year old petrol will be no good.

The rear brake pipe links across and is fixed to the underside of the rear tub on the Mk2 Vitesse, with the clip shown as Item 39 on the Link shown by Clive and as below. I think the position of the clip is slightly forward of the chassis bridge.