Casper

Take a look at this - it shows how the diff works, and yes, if one wheel stays still (probably, as Pete suggests, due to rust), the other will still turn If you watch to the end - don't do this at home! C.

Is a long driveshaft a possibility? C.

. . . and few were open in the small hours, when I was returning from a night out. C.

This thread has drifted a little, but I seem to recall that John Kipping transcribed the maintenance log for the Africa proving trip but I don't know where to find it. One thing I recall is that the rear radius arms were subsequently given a 'kink' to avoid contact with the bodywork. C.

. . . and there's this: http://www.triumphinitaly.it/lingue.asp?yn0=r0&6F=n46vp1y1&xF=EDJ&6G=yn0&xG=F back in 1961 with a bog basic 948 on a Mk 1 chassis.

They look like standard Spitfire wheels to me. With Dunlop C41 cross plies. C.

Sloshing with fuel should get rid of the bits, but not the varnish and goo, nor the rust. I suggest you use the POR Marine clean, but you may need to do it a couple of times. http://www.frost.co.uk/cleaner-degreaser-por15-marine-clean.html see also: http://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-repair-my-fuel-tank then, because there will still be rust, and you may have exposed fresh metal, I would de-rust and phosphate it it with metal prep: .http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-prep-metal-ready.html I have no connection and I know the stuff is expensive but it works well. I expect someone will advise Cola, vinegar or milkstone remover (all work to a certain extent) but I have used the POR products and rely on them and both beat me! I wouldn't advise gravel - it's a bu**er to get out The process can be pretty time consuming. C.

Someone must have some ideas. Zoom discovered that gas operated shocks were better than oil. Stick to 80 profile tyres (depending on width) Springs are a mystery to me, but you might need good ground clearance. Ensure cooling system is effective. Dusty tracks doesn't sound great for a CV. Think about a wind deflector rear screen thing (in other circumstances I think they are for Wuusses). If operating at altitude, it runs weak. Consider low octane fuel might be all you can get, so don't knock up the CR too high. Or pack some Octane booster. Any other ideas? C.

Does the club museum still have Zoom? Zoom was a concourse winning Vitesse (?2L Mk 1) owned by John Thomason. It was prepared by John Kipping for an African rally (forget the exact details) and they campaigned it with success. There were some failures, and I think it ended up in Paris a little like Herbie, with continued re-welding as bits fell off. It was a wonderful adventure. Details of all the prep, and the trip are in the Courier. Go to the club shop and buy yourself a Courier CD set. Someone will give the approximate date. After a bit of tidying up, the car was in the club museum. Edit_ Having found my CD set I can tell you that it was the Peking-Paris 1997, celebrating the 1907 rally. The first Courier article was in June 1997, issue 204 under the title of 'Spirit of Adventure'. Articles covered the history, vehicle preparation and modifications, as well as the trip itself. The finish was reached in March 1998, issue 213. A Postscript in the April issue 214 details the various failure/maintenance required throughout the trip Obviously, the car was prepared for something harsher than you envisage, but I'm sure you would find useful information in the very entertaining series of articles. C. Edit_ And don't forget the original African 'proving' trip for the launch of the Herald 948 cc . These cars can do it!

Yes and yes. Consider a solid dtate one from eBay C.

Don't forget that it should be adjustable.

Post 4 doesn't mention where it was, but I have seen dashboard buttons/switches too many times. C.

If I bought an expensive steering wheel boss for a Triumph (specify model) I would expect it to work properly with the usual equipment. I have modified a few cheapo steering wheel horn systems in the past, and fitting a dashboard button is the mark of a bodger. C.

Brilliant set of photos throughout. C.

I've heard of it and thought of doing it, but I've never seen one either in the flesh (metal) or photo. C.

Decent set at a fairish price may be worth considering depending on the state of yours. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-VITESSE-BUMPER-SET-HERALD-/182186450697 C.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-TRIUMPH-VITESSE-HERALD-LUCAS-L636-REAR-LIGHT-LENS-/291804705340

Original items not east to come by, and anyone who knows what he has will be asking a high price. Even more difficult to find an intact ally trim (I had to make mine from an old treadplate protector and it's not quite 'right'). The radio mount is separate from the speaker enclosure, and the speaker shown above is not the most common fitment. if you have a Courier CD (from the Club shop) and you should have, you will find the Radiomobile instructions in Courier 223, January 1999. C.

Honeybourne Mouldings do the period mount as shown in pic above. Fibreglass obvioulsy. No idea as to quality. Presumably no bright ally trim. £40 C.

Let us know how you get on. Take some pics as you go, and post on here. Something I ought to have done. C.

# 155496 Switch, twin speed and electric pump, as fitted to (some) late Spit/GT6, some Dolomites, etc. I believe there were different versions of the same item. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/fFcAAOSwbPxXP1QO/$_1.JPG NLA at Canleys. Geoff at Wins lists for Dolomite at £80 or £30 good used, but you would need to check it is electric wash. http://www.winsintltd.co.uk/electrical4.html A little ingenuity and a push to make switch should convert your old switch. Done it a few times, but most recently with the early, under-dash type of pumps. i think this is the switch that have used most often: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/718/plastic-starter-switch-with-rubber-cover : If it has aluminium capsule, then here's how: Un-swage the base plate. Replace with plate drilled to take switch, together with some form of spring and guide for pushrod (I use a cut down lid from a plastic bottle the right size, and the bulb reversed as a spring. Reswage. Wire up. If the capsule is plastic, I've not done it. I often buy used switches at Autojumbles so I can convert as required when my son's buy a new car ! C

Several www references state it as correct for Mk2 2 litre: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2H2NJt34OffYmJhZWM1MzUtMWY4YS00NDdkLTkwZDMtNGJjNmQ4OWIxMGRj/edit?pref=2&pli=1#! C

Car Type Lucas / Delco No. Stanpart No. Vacuum Vac Adv Unit No. Mech Adv at Dizzie Vitesse 6 Lucas 25D6 40865 208914 3-7 8 14 Vitesse 6 Delco D200 7953046 211407 2-7 8 14 from HB15001 Vitesse 6 Delco D202 7953070 211414 6-11 6 9 from HB16302 Vitesse 6 LE Lucas 25D6 40866 209050 15 Vitesse 2 Litre HE Lucas 22D6 41168 6-20 10 9 Vitesse 2 Litre Mk 2 Lucas 22D6 41273 2-10- 12 11 You could always give it a try. It's hardly going to break the engine. You could swap the advance control if you strip it. C.

These are the mirrors i would recommend for a Mk 2 2000 door mounting for aesthetic reasons. BUT -The listing says they are flat glass. You will find a massive improvement if you fit convex glass. If you look at the field of view in the photo you will see that the photo is of convex glass mirrors, not flat C..

The choice is not flat or oval, its's flat or convex. The shape is for you to decide (others may advise) but my recommendation is that whatever shape you go for, make sure they have convex mirrors. Especially if you fit door mirrors. C.