Casper

The worst combination is a rotoflex axle under a non-roto tub using the non-roto cable guides. BTDT. C.

948 coupe. The thermostat housing is another dating clue. C.

If he wants to then yes. The OP didn't ask about the horn button or pencil, he asked about the wiring. It may well be that the wiring from the connections just under the dash is still good, but how would he tell if the loom as burnt out? C.

but you can't get to the slip ring (or the wire arrached to it) without removing the wheel. C.

I only use fuses that I know what the spec is. E.g.: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/675/glass-cartridge-fuse-30mm or http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/673/glass-cartridge-fuse-25mm I can't remember how long the fuses we need are, but the listing makes it quite clear whether they are rated for continuous or fusing. I have always understood that the fuse rating for Triumph cars, where quoted, is the fusing current. C.

Line 1 is correct for 1961 1200/1147 (up to engine GA34985*E ), not 1970 Line 2 is a nonsense. There were no 1200 engines in 1959 and all 1200 engines had 30mm carbs. The 28mm item is for a 948 engine 1959-1961 and the 'Details' should show 948, not 1200 Line 3 should read 1961 to 1970 as should the details. This item is for 1200/1147 from engine GA34986*E to end of production. I don't know where they got teir information from C.

but the B30ZIC 5 wasn't fitted to 1970 on. That should read 1200 (1147) 1961 C.

Knees behind it, pulling upwards Nut on the top of the column to prevent damage to threads and also to prevent the wheel from hitting you in the face, Spacer of some sort - try a socket Hit it hard with a hammer if that doesn't work, try a bigger hammer C.

AUD257 are the correct HS2 carbs for the Spitfire Mk 3 (if the tags actually are on the right carbs). Obviously they are best suited to a Spitfire engine but should be okay with the 13/60. Different models, different carbs, different breather arrangements. Breather could be sorted out later (if it was okay for 10 years it will be okay for a bit more. Best short term option is to fit a hose venting down at the bottom of the engine bay.

The volume is fine, but the frequency shouldn't match. From Wikipaedia: although Hella offer different frequencies http://www.hella.com/hella-sg/assets/media/Hella_Horns_Brochure_LoRes.pdf C.

If it has gone open circuit it is probably the contacts needing a clean. C.

Surely, the thermostat prevents 'over cooling'. i suspect the change may have been to save costs on extra and unnecessary parts. C.

Triumph Repair Time Schedule quotes 4.2 hours for 'Differential unit, Replace.' But then, of course, they were charging by the hour. C

Dome out. Gentle tap with a hammer and they increase in diameter as they flatten out very slightly. Some use a sealant as 'belt and braces' but it shouldn't be necessary. C.

I often hear this said, but Why? Surely the warm up time is controlled by the thermostat. C.

No. I think this is the big thing that causes people difficulty in understanding car electrics. What we refer to as an 'earth' in motor vehicle terms is, as John says, the chassis or body. In motor vehicle electrics these big lumps of metal, attached together, are really a huge wire, completing the circuit from the wire connected to the component, through the component, then to 'earth' and back to the battery. Another thing that can cause problems is where the switch is: Is it 'supply switched', so that the switch controls whether electricity is fed to the component (e.g. lights), or is it 'earth switched' when the component has an unswitched supply and the switch controls whether the electricity can reach 'earth' and back to the battery (e.g. wipers). Sometimes the component itself has a switch, such as the distributor points. Con

A 16g shim alters the toe by about 1.5 degrees C.

I, too have found modern replacements to be very stiff and reluctant to cancel. I swapped the spring from my old unit onto the new one and it's better. Still got my eye out for a second hand unit to keep as a spare. C.

True but the temperature of the coolant as a whole is controlled by the thermostat. Any nucleated boiling in the passageways of the head (where it's hottest and the cooling is required) will be affected by the pressure. My understanding was that the caps were increased to 13 lbs as 1. this was beneficial, and 2. the construction of the hoses had changed and they were able to take the pressure. Radiators designed for the 7lb cap will not normally take the 13 lb caps as the tabs are larger. But yours can. I run a 13 lb cap on a wide radiator on my 1200 (I had to open up the fitting to allow the wide tabs. BTW, I believe the cooling ability of a narrow rad is notionally the same as a wide one because the they are 3 row, compared to two row on the wide. They were of course cheaper, which is the main reason for the change. Over-cooling will not occur. Cooling is controlled by the thermostat, not the cooling ability of the radiator. Awaits flames C.

Another vote from me. Great service. Will even match keys from a photo if you don't have the code/key number. C.

and one click = 1/10th of a degree. 10 clicks per degree. (At the crank) C.

I can't remember the clicks, but 1 vernier mark = 4 degrees at the crank. C.

Misquoting Mark Twain - "the reports of my death have been greatly exaggerated." I don't know whether production has ceased, but there is still plenty out there: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pipe-thread-sealants/0691814/ http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hermetite-Red-Semi-Hardening-Gasket-Compound-125ml-/112347681259 and others That said, it probably wouldn't be my choice these days. C.

That's a Delaney Galley casing. Never fitted to Vitesse (I guess because the valve gets in the way of the larger engine. C.

The picture suggests that the relay is for LEDs. C.