Casper

http://herald-tips-tricks.wikidot.com/body-interior:radio-installation There are three screws at the front of the coin tray in the gearbox tunnel (if original). They are for the radio support - don't unscrew all at the same time. If you have (or get) the Courier CD from the club shop, there are full details in Issue 223 C.

Washing up liquid contains salt (hence advice to wash off immediately. Car shampoo has the same lubrication effect, but less likely to encourage corrosion. C.

Yes. Three rail gearboxes all pretty much the same, but later ones had synchro on first, I think. C.

Some more info in another place: http://goo.gl/U5fprq C.

I assume that's the swing spring. My record show: Front camber: 2.75 deg pos (most would wish less positive, or slight negative). Front castor 4 deg Toe will be about 0 - 1/16" Rear toe 0 - 1/16" I don't know where I got that from but it will be about right. It's the same as the Mk 2/early Mk 3. The main issue is balance l/right, eyc. All measurements laden. 150 lb (if i remember correctly), each seat C.

I have and it's done 13 years without problems. it may fail, and if it does, I will be content with the service it has given me. Just for info - how long was it since you did yours? C.

Plain as standard. If you are buying note that some new pattern ones have a curved section and just don't look right. C.

1. How have you 'checked' them? Because they are an active part of the suspension as well as the transmission they are normally under tension and play cannot be determined. 2. Again, they are under tension when driving, but less so on the overrun and it is here they clunk (and/or click). Often, the clunk is also evident on cornering as the inner wheel is under less stress than the outer. 3. I think you should look at the UJs 4. Check out http://www.rarebits4classics.net/#!hints--tips/cdwh Clicking and clunking are two different and closely related issues. Good luck C.

Very sad to hear. Farewell, Bill (not that Bill). Condolences to Carol. C.

They are shipped from Frimley. Just to balance all the good reports, my ignitor packed up after a week. I'm now on a second hand SimonBBC and happy C.

. . . and getting the pins back in can be a bit of a challenge (tweezers or long nose pliers). A used bicycle spoke is useful for pushing them out. C.

If you can get it apart you may well find a code on the barrel (I did). www.keytrader.co.uk. may well be able to help. Really nice chaps. C.

http://www.winsintltd.co.uk/ (N.F.I.) or any one of other traders in used parts. C.

That will be pretty much any Triumph ! Just basic maintenance and service will teach you a lot, and most cars have at least some 'issues' that need resolving. (Browse this, and other, message boards to see the many and varied queries new owners raise). I suggest you don't look for anything approaching a 'project'. At your budget, buy the best you can. There will be plenty to do. C.

I use a Champion L104 filter from Halfrauds but there are other similar. C.

Yes, getting the tank out is a bit of a hassle as there is little clearance. I suggest you DON'T try removing the drain plug. You do need to remove the bracket that hold the boot stay, and the filler grommet. Standing in the boot while you wiggle stuff around can help. It won't come out however you try, then suddenly, it's out. See: http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/240-fuel-tank-capacity-herald-1360/ and: http://triumphherald1360.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/fuel-tank.html Rinsing it out while you can will prevent sediment getting ionto your fuel lines but you should fit an in-line filter anyway. Normally in the boot, rather than before the pump, although either will do. C.

From the Owners' Repair Manual: Choke 21.5 Main Jet 112.5 Air correction jet 175 Pilot Jet 45 Pilot air bleed 85 Econostat petrol jet 100 Econostat air bleed 1.2 Accelerator pump - set on short stroke (outer slot) Chris Longhurst did an article in the Courier years ago (about 1985) giving different jet listings for the different versions of the engines and the later ones used a 115 Econostat jet, although he didn't think it made much difference. In case it matters, and for what it is worth he also says: ""One point should be made about floats in PSE1 carburettors. If a plastic float is fitted, the washer under the needle valve should be part number 512658; if a brass float is fitted, use washer 510742. The washers are a different thickness" I've no idea how thick those part numbers are, but obviously this could be a problem if the bowl is overfilling. C.

and you only want a shallow (semi-) dished one. Deep dish looks daft IMHO. C.

While it's all apart, how about checking you have the correct jets in you 'new' solex. The B30PSE1 was used for a variety of engines in its day. C.

I think these are more strictly described as 'tie down' loops, but no doubt they would cope with a gentle tow. I've seen some at autojumbles and they (the ones I have seen - possibly not original) seemed a little flimsy. C.

Try: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleSpecific/T3/info/headlamp/headlamp.htm 1. On older type diffusion patterns you can see quite clearly where the glass is moulded so as to make the light kick up.. 2. High output Halogens, coupled with black tape may generate a local hotspot and POSSIBLY cause lens to crack. C.

For my Les Leston with a similar problem I had a friend turn one up out of wood and with a bit of fettling and fiddling to retain the horn push, make earth, etc. it's been fine for a good few years. Stained and varnished to match the wood rim. C.

Make sure it's the Fullers Earth type, not the paper type. C.

To be fair, when correct it only just misses the A post (windscreen pillar), and I guess it might make a difference as to how far back the seat is adjusted. C.

Good to see you Jeremy. Looking forward to seeing your car for real C.