Casper

Dave, The seats are NOT handed. If fitted correctly a seat should reach the windscreen when tilted forward (because it avoids the A post).. mishmosh - have you ever wondered why Standard Triunph didn't use crude bolts through the floorpan ? C.

Bodge ! Get new ones. Cheap and effective. C.

Yes, you should be able to separate the seat sub-frame from the runners, but usually you will have to remove one of the fixing bolts (can't remember if front or rear). Without checking, I think the holes on the runners should be to the rear. It is not unusual for seats to be fitted incorrectly, and yes, the runners do get bent. Fettling can be worthwhile. Runners, etc. should be clean with just a smidgen of grease, but the seats do get a bit sticky (not a problem for a one driver car). C. Edt: Seat Fitting Components and terminology: Seat runners - fitted to the floor, have holes for the adjuster to register in. Subframe - runs on runners, includes adjuster lever on one side only. Has two brackets on the front, each with two holes arranged ONE ABOVE the other. On one side the bracket is square and straight, and on the other side the holes are set forward, so the bracket is shaped like a B. Seat frame - on which seat is built. Brackets at the front have two holes arranged ONE BEHIND the other. Seat runners should be fitted with holes to the rear, fixed with 5/16" UNF bolts. Captive nut on turret at the rear is FQ3406 (should be available from the usual suspects). The subframes are handed: you should have a pair. They should be fitted so that the adjuster lever is nearest the transmission tunnel. This adjuster should mate with the holes in the seat runner (but won't if the seat runner has been fitted back to front). This ensures that the holes on the bracket on the door side are a smidgen further forward than the transmission tunnel side, i.e. the B shaped bracket is nearest the door. Choose between the high and the low hole on the seat subframe. This adjusts rake and/or height (with blocks). Use the foremost hole on the seat frame bracket for the door side (ie the side where the sub-frame holes are further forward) and the rearmost hole on the tunnel side. This means that the seat sits square on the subframe. The fact that the pivot point is slightly angled, means that when the seat is tipped forward, the top moves inwards and does not hit the A post/windscreen surround. Hope all that helps. C.

My bookmark is for the forum with View New Content. From the list I can easily tell the posts I'm interested in. C.

Twin Stromberg (1 1/4") carbs and manifolds were available from Alexander Tuning (and perhaps others). The usual route is to use twin 1/4" SUs using an inlet manifold from a Mk 1 or Mk 2 Spitfire. There are a number of relatively minor issues even going down this route. PM me with your email address and I can send you a Word doc with some useful info. (Be quick or you won't get it 'til after the weekend.) BTW, if your car is before November 1964 it has the lower powered engine anyway. The 'Hot Cam' Herald was from Engine No. GA178101HE <edit> Silly me, I see yours is a '65 but it might be worth checking the engine number anyway Twin Carbs (SU) were a factory option, or an aftermarket accessory C.

Get a grip ! I can manage that pretty well with a 1200 Herald (slightly sorted). My first thought on reading your original post was "Why ?". Get your GT6 working properly with the factory setup and you will have adequate torque, acceleration, flexibility and top speed for a road car. C.

http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/engine-number-identification-chart MkII 2.5 Pi Saloon, Estate That accounts for most of it, up to the HE. can't help with the BW, unless it was originally mated to a Borg Warner overdrive C.

Welcome. I'll be elsewhere but I'm sure you'll find someone to chat with. Tell us about your car. C.

Should have come in January: http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/229-replica-tax-disc/ see also: http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/263-tssc-tax-disc/ But I also got one with my renewal. Suggest you give the club a call. C.

Seat Fitting Components and terminology: Seat runners - fitted to the floor, have holes for the adjuster to register in. Subframe - runs on runners, includes adjuster lever on one side only. Has two brackets on the front, each with two holes arranged ONE ABOVE the other. On one side the bracket is square and straight, and on the other side the holes are set forward, so the bracket is shaped like a B. Seat frame - on which seat is built. Brackets at the front have two holes arranged ONE BEHIND the other. The subframes are handed: you should have a pair. They should be fitted so that the adjuster lever is nearest the transmission tunnel. This adjuster should mate with the holes in the seat runner (but won't if the seat runner has been fitted back to front). This ensures that the holes on the bracket on the door side are a smidgen further forward than the transmission tunnel side, i.e. the B shaped bracket is nearest the door. Choose between the high and the low hole on the seat subframe. As suggested - this adjusts rake and/or height (with blocks). Use the foremost hole on the seat bracket for the door side (ie the side where the sub-frame holes are further forward) and the rearmost hole on the tunnel side. This means that the seat sits square on the subframe. The fact that the pivot point is slightly angled, means that when the seat is tipped forward, the top moves inwards and does not hit the A post/windscreen surround. C.

If you want to become an instant expert you could do no better than getting a Courier CD (from Club Shop) and reading the very interesting series by Carl Heinlein in Courier 158 (Aug 1993), 159 (Sep 1993) and 160 (Oct 1992). Worth a read. C.

From the photos it looks to me that the horn pencil doesn't reach. You may need to adjust the steering column outer to raise the contact ring. I don't know how the 'new' horn button works, but you may need to improvise from first principles. C.

Does the 12v at the (side/tail light) fuse stay or go when you go from dip to main? If it stays, the fault is in the wiring to, or at the lights (probably earth). If it goes, there is something in the switches/wiring before the fuse that isn't right. As I think you know, the rear/side light supply should have noting to do with the main/dip switch. If you have problems with your brake lights as well, definitely suspect earth (although I have just had a brake light switch fail). C.

Can't speak for the French but I think the Latin would be something like alleviatus, or alleviare from the root levis (light in weight) rather than a word from the root lumen light with which we see. I do like Alleggerita but I think the Jag/sporting association of Lightweight works best for me. Don't want to get mistaken for with an Allegro. C.

It's a bit of a dodgy arrangement. It does push on and should have a rubber doughnut 'gasket' (P/N A147) between the valve and the inlet. The valve is held to the inlet by a stepped clamp screwed to the heater box. Edit - Brainfade (now got a D-G) see Steve's post below. C.

Not a Spitfire specialist, but I would make sure the fuse connections are okay, perhaps sticking a meter on it. Same circuit also serves front sidelights. Do they stay on? If so, I agree with John. C.

GT4S is Herald. The 2 litre cars have a different profile for the rear underfloor and need a different system. C.

What it says on the casting does NOT indicate the type. What you need to check is: The type of dust seal: 16P use bellows seals that do NOT have a retaining ring/spring. 16PB/M16PB have a smaller seal held by a retaining ring/spring. And, the retaining pins: 16P use large (1/4") retaining pins 16PB/M16PB use smaller (3/16") retaining pins. Bleed nipple heads If 10mm hex = inconclusive If 7/16" AF hex = 99% sure not M16PB If 16PB/M16PB, then: Pads GBP144 or substitute (may need filing to clear) Repair Kit 519731 Pad fitting kit (if required) GBK1002 If 16P Pads GBP144 or substitute (may need drilling and/or filing) Repair Kit 601960

If you have the Courier CD then there is a very interesting series by Carl Heinlein in Courier 158 (Aug 1993), 159 (Sep 1993) and 160 (Oct 1992) Worth a read. C.

I think the previous link will get you the right thing, but be aware there are transfers and stickers. Transfer is 'correct', if it matters. Both give the same instructions. C.

While you are at it, fit a stud and nut to the rear N/S overrider instead of the bolts, then if you need to remove this you won't need to take the tank out. C.

Beat me to it, Darren. C.

I'm with you for the reasons stated in post 26. I've got my account set up to show New Content and from that list you can fairly easily see what's what. C.

M/Cylinder is different C.

I forget the date, but when 'Zoom' the Vitesse was being prepared for the (was it?) Capetown to Paris challenge with John Kipping and John Thomason, JK used a Mk 1 engine and Mk 2 head to get what he believed to be the 'best' possible option. All this was covered in the Courier. Zoom used to be on display at the Club HQ. Refer to your CD or get one from the shop ! C.