Clive

Absolutely! When doing an engine I get a variety, and fit as "much" washer is as possible. I find a std, +5 and +10 will do most!

Just attach tow rope and pull it. They are wrong gearbox isn't pumped at all. Probably not a good idea to tow it 500 miles, but 10 will do no harm. Maybe they are confused with the TR7 5 speed box which does have an oil pump, or rather the 'puter has been given incorrect data when set up. Wire wheel thing sounds sort of fair. The spinners are put on so they tighten with going forward, so I guess could (notice could) get loose if towed a fair distance backwards. But I see their point, and credit to them for actually knowing that. Not something I would have thought of!

Koni available at a decent cost at bastuk, in Europe. Despite postage still the cheapest supplier. They make lots of alloy stuff for triumphs too..... Re using alternative bearings, have a google for nick Jones CV conversion. I have that, rear upright machined to use mgf bearing pack, but change to CV at the same time. I intend fitting a Subaru viscous LSD soon too.

With a midge, being lighter than the original car, will need a softer spring too. I am sure that would be in the build plans? I assume it is herald rear spring? How did you check the rear toe? Car loaded up with weight in seats and rolled around to get it settled? May be worth doing 4 wheel alignment too. Did my car in a very heathbrobinson manor. String around all 4 wheels at about 6" height (set using bricks or concrete blocks) and adjust all wheels so string just touches front and back of all tyres. Then used straight edges on bricks and tape measure to set toe front and rear, adjusting both sides equally. Car seems very happy, though with over 4k of abuse since May, I should recheck in case anything has settled. Incorrect rear toe can make a car truly horrible to drive.

I think classic mini are the correct size. As above Gary f is the man to speak to. However, I would seriously consider the CV option, yes more outlay, but with proper rotoflexes at least £150 each they look a sensible long term option.

No damage at all. Except to the wallet. Just fully drain the tank and fill with petrol. The difficult bit is disposing of the mixture after, nobody wants it for anything. I helped a friend out by sorting his car after just such an incident, and used the mix as a degreaser. Not brilliant, but gets a lot of crud out of stuff. Then finish off with a better solvent. Otherwise to the tip.......

No cutting etc required. When I converted my rotoflex GT6 back in the 90's it was very simple. There is an extension bracket that bolts to the chassis shock mounting (your car will have them) and slips between the body and chassis crossmember a few inches inboard of the shock mount. The difficult part is getting the correct length shock absorber. Do your research carefully here, I know even the club shop ones a possibly too long. I believe Gary Flynn found the correct ones when he did his vitesse. A better alternative may be to convert to CV shafts at the rear and use the normal type shock absorber, ideally Koni (still the best you can realistically buy)

kenlowe normally have a black box with a knob as pete says. This has a thin hollow copper tube that should go into the rad top hose (a bulb is on the end)

There is some stuff over on the CT forum a while ago about a very decent chap called Marcus. He rebuilt his engine, and paid plenty of attention to the oil galleries, including putting a VERY long drill right along them and drilling the problematic restriction through. May be worth a search? Using similar stuff on a 2.5 should result in a very nice engine!

get a bit of string, 2 tape measures, 2 bricks and 2 stright bits of metal about 600mm-1m long. An assistant, and about an hour or so. It will transform the car..... I guess I ought to stick mine on a weighbridge. Just out of interest. And John, not sure if canleys still sell the alloy lower wishbones? I have wondered about a fabricated version too, that would be much lighter.

Oops....well spotted! like to keep you on your toes! Brain thinking of too much at once, and worried about Pete......... And I need to investigate my heater, no matter what you get air blowing out the passenger footwell. Hopefully I can free the flap up, or whatever. Rest works perfectly. Just hope I don't need to change the heater, that is a pain.

the one on the right directs heat to screen or footwells. And if you pull the knob (easy Pete!) out it turns the heater fan on. Should be 2 stage. As to temp gauge, just turn the thermostat down a bit if you don't like it. Worrying you need to turn the heater on to cool the car though. Is teh fan really close (as in few mm) from the rad? it needs to be to get the full effect otherwise much of the air just goes sideways and does no cooling. Ideally it wants to be in a shroud (do-able but easiest to pinch one off a modern car!)

I never have in about 10 engine rebuilds. I just put a pin in and felt for play.

Agreed, it took me 10 mins to do my sump, and that included checking by bolting the sump in place (no gasket, just a couple of bolts done up) to see if there was clearance.

Mine was a 2.5S engine in my vitesse. The pulley on that had power steering pulley too, so I just bolted on a vitesse pulley instead. As said, no issues at all over many thousands of mine, and it was an everyday car too (as in literally everyday, and driven hard)

I did, and had no issues in about 40k. As long as it has a rubber damper strip (I an certain all the 6 pot pulleys do)

Indeed strap drive props seem to have issues with balance, there was a bit about it in the old Kipping catalogue (possibly on the canleys site now?) Anyway, I would get one with a sliding spline or CV at one end, it will make life much easier when it comes to fitting and future removal. And yes, all heralds use the same length prop irrespective of type. see below, spit use the same length for 1-IV, early had 3 synchro box and IV had the 4 synchro http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/propshaft-problems/

Early spitfire had them, not so sure about GT6. Easy swap IF you can find one. I gave mine to a deserving project a few years ago, I think I would get too confused having a fly-off in juts one car. I struggle to use the correct arm for indicators! I think I have read a normal handbrake can be converted to fly-off, but that is all I can remember about it. Maybe worth a good search...

Non roto on a swing spring, about 2 hours on the driveway....last did it in 2008, the morning of teh RBRR as the diff fitted was leaking, and I woke up early doing the maths and realised it wouldn't make 2000 miles without going dry.... All fitted by 9.30am! Roto is tirckier, the rotoflexes are very springy! While in there check the lower trunnion bolt, it it is free worth taking out and clean/lubricate.

Correct hose rating is R9, do not accept the older R6 as "that is what we always supply" as it isn't suitable for alcohol-containing fuels which is what we have to use. I ended up getting a roll of Goodyear greenshield from the states. Luckily a friend was about to come over and visit, saving the hefty postage and customs charges!

People take leaves out of springs, or an old trick turn leaf (3rd smallest IIRC) upside down and it flattens the spring. Or fit a GT6 spring.....allsorts have been done over the years, some work, some don't

Rotoflex or non-rotoflex? If non rotoflex, Exhaust off, undo the shafts from the diff, and the prop. They can be left in situ. Undo the spring studs from the top of the diff (cover plate inside the car) Trolley jack under the diff, undo the front mounts, then the rears (not so easy!) and lower the diff, it has to angle pointing down at the front. Rotoflex, I suspect you need a spring lifter, undo the spring eye bolts, and possibly the lower wishbone (easiest from the chassis bracket) otherwise the same. I think.

Chuck the whole lot of vinegar in, it is weak and quite dilute. Run with rad cap off would be my advice, you may well get a fair amount of CO2 generated. Yep, run up to temp, and then leave it. Reactions are twice as fast for every 10degree rise in temp. So going from 20 to 80 will be about 64x faster. We like speed! Leave overnight if you wish, I can't see vinegar doing any harm in that timescale. And yes, a simple flush after, ideally hose pressed against the block drain plug.

Now that is where my memory is bad. Been donkeys years since I had swung-axle cars. I think a lifter makes it easier, the arch of the spring is quite marked. Have a look in the wsm, online here is required (note, herald and earlier vitesse basically the same) https://www.box.com/s/c970f3ab0c2635962ef5

Not sure which vitesse you have. If rotoflex, you will need a spring-lifter (diagram in the workshop manual, buy/beg/steal one) Bit of a faff to fit, but do-able with thought/patience/correct tools and a big hammer. Plenty of tea/biscuits too. Non-roto is easier. New spring, canleys sell british made ones.