NonMember

I'm not entirely convinced by the styling of the real thing, but that after-market conversion definitely does NOT suit the car.

That estate was already fairly elderly by the time of that photo - the Golf in front is R reg, so it's at least six years after end of Herald production.

Use a blower with a sealed / induction motor (most of them are, in fact) and there's no reason for there to be any sparks. If there were a spark, having extraction means that, at worst, you get a bit of an exhaust flame, because the bulk flow takes any ignition outside. For extra safety, fit a mesh filter shortly before the blower, and that will act as a flame block. In reality, though, I rather suspect that if the extraction is doing its job and keeping the spray booth atmosphere breathable, then the vapours are not sufficiently saturated to ignite.

Those "Scotchbrite" wheels are very good. They take paint and rust off even quicker than sanding discs but produce only a "brushed" surface on good metal.

The Mk1 Vitesse layout has ignition switch top left, choke below it, master light switch bottom right, and the heater controls (valve, fan switch, flap) across the top. Wiper controls are to the right of the instruments.

It definitely has a shelf life but it may not be too short (it's probably longer than the packaging says, like most things)

"Liquid Electrical Tape" is a kind of plasticised paint. You brush it on thick and let it dry, and it remains flexible and waterproof, rather like the insulation on the wires. If the join you're sealing is clean then it can work quite well.

As Phil says, that's not particularly LP. I used to have an Apollo HVLP setup with a turbine (think vacuum cleaner exhaust) instead of a compressor. I doubt that ever achieved more than 10psi but it gave a perfectly decent finish with very little overspray.

The most common problem with the manual pump is that one of the two one-way valves is missing or stuck open. Commonly it's the little ball-in-a-tube in the washer bottle that's gone. If you do want to go electric, pumps are readily available, as Colin says. You should probably change the pick-up valve for a filter (as the factory did when fitting electric washer pumps). What model of Spitfire? If it's a MkIV with the turn-to-wipe-and-push-to-squirt knob, then early Toledo's had a variant of that knob but designed for electric washer pump. The round-tail Spitfires' separate push button can be converted to an electric switch with a bit of ingenuity. Mine has a push switch fitted into the original aluminium recessed mount, but I've not yet got round to attaching the original knob to it.

I assumed from the context that ludwig meant you could buy a standard loom from, say, Rimmers or Canley or Fitchetts, but if you want any customization you'd have to do it yourself (and thus spoil the brand new loom). Buying from Autosparks, you can specify modifications, which they will incorporate "to factory quality".

Not for a GT6 but I bought a full wiring loom for my Mk3 Spitfire from them. I specified a few minor additions (headlight relays, electric fan, electric fuel pump with inertia switch). It fitted nicely and works great.

Which one? Does it work well?

I also have a long RSJ with a chain block. The first (possibly only, so far) thing it lifted in the new garage was the steel frame being fitted around the rim of the pit.

Yes, at least two of mine have had them, but they were both Vitesses. I'm not sure whether the bright trim was there on Heralds.

I could do with any spare offcuts of motivation. I got as far as removing the gearbox cover on the Spitfire (non-working overdrive, suspect low oil level) and poking a finger in the filler hole (didn't feel any oil there). Need motivation to refill and refit (possibly adding an access hole). But it also has a fault on the electric fan controller, so that needs replacing. The Vitesse now has a shiny pair of freshly painted headlight surrounds... just waiting for me to fit them.

Looks good - nicely refurbished "antique" (i.e. still shows its age but not in a bad way).

I've never used an engine stand but I'd have though the back plate could come off and the rear of the block be used.

Yes, he certainly has plenty of confidence but his understanding of what he's playing with appears severely limited.

Some people think the original 3/8" studs are too weak. I've never had a problem with them, myself, but then I don't let Thicktwit fitters attack them with their impact drivers.

I love the jet assisted GT6 - very Dan Dare!

It should be, if all you want is to clean up the end bit. Pull the inner back so it's clear of where you want to cut, then use a thin cutting disc on a grinder or Dremel. Use lots of speed and not much pressure.

Who would?

Ford "Silver Fox" was also a problem colour in that the paint adhesion wasn't good. That may explain why they kept re-formulating it.

When my dad had a garage added to our house where I grew up, in about 1974, the door was explicitly marked "Westland Garador". I remember him challenging the three of us boys to find the house's connection with helicopters.

My Vitesse was restored back in 1990 or so and painted a very dark green. I'm fairly sure, from what the restorer has since told me, that it's Jaguar British Racing Green (1967) - but it's nothing like Jaguar British Racing Green (1970) nor Jaguar British Racing Green (1975) nor any of the many metallic Jaguar British Racing Green shades. My local paint shop agreed that the 1967 JBRG looked a good match but unfortunately the formula for it contains lead and thus can no longer be sold. Best of luck finding a good match for yours.