johny
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Everything posted by johny
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There must be a reason for that cutout in the insulator piece and it looks like it should be matched by gaskets that have the same shape - part number 147659. If you suspect an airleak you could try spraying the joints with Easystart or something similar while the engines running to see if theres any change in revs...
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Interesting, the original stud holes go right through to the interior but I suppose theres no real disadvantage if they dont....
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always thought the diff casing takes quite a bashing from the suspension loads both one sided and all together😮 Makes me a bit nervous about using a swing spring diff (4 hole) with a fixed spring in my Vitesse....
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Have you seen whats left of the bearing Pete?😄
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So really you can never see an improvement in power at partial revs because you could just open the throttle a bit more on the standard engine to equal the output from the tuned one! The curves should be identical until the throttle is full open on the standard engine at which point the tuned one will hopefully still have some power left to give...
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Yes ok I get it as the airflow restriction at partial opening is the carb butterfly not the filter but when fully open its down to filter/porting/valves👍Those power curves are a bit confusing then as dont they show an increase at all revs?
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If a different (richer) needle is needed to match the increased airflow then there must be more power being produced as doesnt more fuel + air = bigger bang? I would have thought the power curve would proportionally increase over standard across the complete rev range...
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Surely the two are connected less vacuum (K&N) = more air flow and vice versa?
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Wait a minute though, surely a K&N cant do both? Change fuelling across the rev range but only change airflow at max revs...
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I believe cast iron also has a habit of distorting after casting so should be left a while before machining (please note this aftermarket manufacturers!). The problem for refacing the braking surface is how to hold the drum to ensure its centred on the axle axis rather than the outside and I would have thought an old modified half shaft could be used. With a short section of half shaft held in the chuck the drum could then be reverse bolted to the hub and machined....
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Not very green either is it☹️
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Yes then that in turn pushes up the cost so it cant compete with new drums from a low cost labour country...
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I reckon the thinking these days is that youre cooling the contents of the radiator as you drive even though the thermostat is closed so the auto shutter system is to stop that...
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I think some moderns now have controlled radiator shutters which stay closed when you drive off until the engine is up to temperature - something else to go wrong of course😮
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The only thing that bugs me with motor factors is theres normally one price for joe public and another for garages so when Im standing there paying for something Im sure the mechanic next to me would get it with a substantial saving😡
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less likely as a shop supplies just in its area so needs repeat customers much more than an online business - the word will soon get round if it sells poor quality products...
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Loss of brake pressure, but has fixed itself?
johny replied to daverclasper's topic in Braking System
Yes I think thats why sometimes a slow pedal push can cause the port seal to leak but a stamp and its ok. Luckily thats the normal reaction if this happens driving😂 -
Loss of brake pressure, but has fixed itself?
johny replied to daverclasper's topic in Braking System
Both the main seal and reservoir return seal have to hold back the same full braking pressure. Heres the diagram from the manual and the small seal is part of a fairly delicate assembly which you need to check is still functioning correctly once the new rubber part is installed...
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Unfortunately these black marks are produced when stationary☹️ Must be something coming off the tyres to produce them?
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An old chisel down at right angles to the shaft between the flange and outer race? The problem with normal pullers is having the space to get the jaws in place. I think you need to at least get it started before you can use a puller....
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on motorbikes the concrete is supposed to draw out 'oils' so leaving the tyre drier and less sticky (very important) and its true that both my Triumph and bike leave black marks so something is happening....
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some sort of wedge in there and keep tapping it in all the way round - old screwdriver or chisel?
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oh dear, think diff needs to come out for an internal clean🙁
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sounds like a blown bulb? Try putting the sensor wire to earth rather than a test light... Ive just gone to LED bulbs for this as brighter and hopefully long lasting.
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The bearing is a push fit in the casing and sometimes needs a bit of assistance to pull out. Be careful not to damage or bend the sealing faces as they use no gasket. A bit of tapping with wood on the flange should knock it out....
