johny

Actually Colins probably right about getting a replacement speedo unless you enjoy a challenge. When theres items like this available it makes sense: TRIUMPH HERALD 13/60 "SMITHS" SPEEDOMETER--4.11 DIFF READING | eBay

Fraid its got to be the bearings where the drive enters the speedo. Apart from driving the mileage counters it also spins a magnet located very close to a disc which can rotate but is restricted by a spring. The faster the magnet spins the more the force applied to the disc by the magnetic field so the disc turns against the spring and moves the needle round. Hopefully with a bit penetrating oil (dont get it everywhere) and patience the bearings might free off...

yes thats pretty conclusive unless the cable somehow jams as you do it up into the back of the speedo. That is possible although the way you found the old cable broken at the gearbox suggests it was all working ok until the speedo seized...

Buy a replacement! What are you saying sir - this one can come apart, be freed off (maybe🤔), lubed and put back in service. Honestly nothing sophisticated in there although if you have to start actually dismantling the mech it will get more complicated....

Cant see any reason why the speedo couldnt seize. I would have thought its unusual but suppose the internals can dry out as they never normally get lubed....

Yes heres a new thrust for a six cylinder and I think it looks very similar to Karls good one with a copper coloured thrust face (you can just see the numbering stamped on the silver coloured reverse face in the first pic). As Rob says, an inspection of Karls crank is essential....

Looking at the photos again, was the undamaged thrust actually in the right way round? It looks old but new as I would have expected the surface to show some polishing....

yes one of those thrusts looks very strange - squashed and with chunks missing? They dont seem to match either... New ones will be thicker (even replacement standard size ones) so your endfloat will end up tighter. The manual should say what thickness new ones will be if you want to check. REMEMBER the white metal surface (usually has an oil channel or two in it like the better of your old ones) must rub against the crank ie facing away from the main bearing. Yes mistakes have been made before😲

Interesting but theres no outcome is there? The worst bit for me with your problem was Bastucks attitude....

yes must be in contact as theres a coil spring in the slave cylinder pushing the actuator rod outwards to take up all play. Otherwise youd have a sloppy pedal on first pressing the pedal....

yes all vitesse, GT6 and 1850 (single and 3 rail) used the same seal housing which is a different part number to the Spitfire version...

Yes if youre going to replace the thrusts you need to mic them and compare to the sizes available for new ones to get the end float correct...

Clive I suppose those shocks come shorter than standard and thats how the car is lowered?

certainly seem sensible to have a common bell housing but then Triumph werent always sensible😄

No sorry thats a common misconception - the springs are compressed by the weight of the car so unless you change that their length is fixed. What you need to do is do-up the adjustment rings so that the base of the springs moves upwards. Then, as the springs length must stay the same, the top mounting plate will be moved higher ie the car will be raised👍

Surely if the adaptors are different as shown by the measurements you have taken, the holes in the bell housings they fit in will have to be different? Heres this from Rimmers single rail page:

As I say theyre not really for adjusting the height of the car but for ensuring the damper can sit in the right position for different load weights and spring lengths. Its the same on motorbikes where the adjustment is just to keep the bike at the same ride height even with pillion and/or luggage. Heres a true height adjustable shock with the bottom ring being the one to raise or lower where the car sits...

Looks like theres different bell housings for scroll and lip type seals to fit single rail Spit boxes - certainly two different part numbers...

I think it looks like those dampers are set too low especially in the first pic where the top bump stop looks pretty close to the damper body. Thats good news as it means you should be able to adjust the bottom threaded rings to raise the car and also reduce the risk of reaching the end of damper travel, win, win!

Can you see the bores and whether theyre scored? Never heard of problems with little ends and if your compressions were good I would leave the pistons unless you want to go the whole hog😮 You have been so lucky with the crank bearings as usually by the time people hear them rattling the journals are damaged and a regrind is needed. I take it youve confirmed the crank is standard size (should be stamped on back of bearing shells) so now you need to think about which bearings to buy as theres different types, makes and prices. Vandervell seem to be the most highly regarded but are difficult to find plus expensive. Theyre the same construction as your originals, tri-metals but theres also cheaper bi-metal ones and each type has different characteristics... What do the thrust bearings look like and how much end float did the crank have? These also come in different thicknesses so you can get the right reading...

Unfortunately adjusting your front shocks isnt quite so simple as the height has to be set to leave the damper in the right position. In other words the damper should sit about 25% of the way off being fully extended so that it wont hit the stops in either direction. Obviously youve got a bit of margin to play with depending on where they sit now but otherwise I believe you can install spacers on top of the damper to increase ground clearance...

Should be club members only plus an appropriate deposit...

Just thought, if youre feeling rich the new oil pumps available are alloy bodied and look to be higher capacity (confirm this) than the originals like yours plus of course come with a gauze strainer....

Well! The hive mind was right for once😄 It looks like youve caught those bearings just in time as much more and you wear through the copper under layer to the steel backing and risk damaging the crank. I think the big ends may have been changed in the past as they normally go before the mains but anyway will need inspecting as well (dont mix up if being reused). Obviously the journals could be oval but its unlikely so, as Pete says, I would just replace the shells. Looking at the pump I wonder if the engine has been left a long time without being run as it looks almost rusty. However if within tolerance it shouldnt be any problem especially as less pressure will now be lost through the crank bearings...

I wonder if there isnt meant to be a steel ring embedded in the manifold hole that the PCV inserts into - this could be to stop the two alloy 'welding' together?