johny

hmmm not sure that solution is going to impress the OP🤣

Also best to do the final tightening of the bolts of any rubber suspension bushes once the cars back on the ground and wheels in normal position. This ensures the bushes arent under tension all the time....

Mk2 at least, looks like a diaphragm in the WSM...

I read of one case where the replacement diaphragm didnt last 5 minutes and certainly pattern rubber parts in general seem to be pretty poor☹️

Cant see any reason to not keep the originals. Mine are so why take the risk of replacing with a pattern part?

Yes its an option but the kits are a good proportion of the price of a new pump and also changing the valves in the old unit is a bit fiddly which puts some people off overhauling. If going to an electric pump I think the time to do it is when the engine is running perfectly so that if theres any change you know its probably down to the modification....

Trouble is you could go to all that work (wiring, plumbing, cut off safety switch etc) not to mention cost and still be no better off☹️

Ha, sounds like we should have Henry Fords kingpins in our cars!

Yes Lotus did as well but I suspect in both cases it was what was available at the time and at the right price. Dont get me wrong its not a bad suspension but would have been so much better with two ball joints...

Cor it says they were phased out in the 30s so dont think any competitor of the Herald etc was still using them!

Hmmm wonder what other manufacturers design solution was at the time?

Probably both👍

Cant see why anyone would chose a thread and bush system over a ball joint unless it was for cost. Maybe Im missing something but youve got two things to wear, a bolt that rusts in the bush, a thread that needs oiling regularly and then can even break off😮

Cant recommend anything but what worries me with vacuum is the possibility of pulling air in around the threads of the bleed nipple. I did one recently using a large syringe to pull fluid through and if I applied too much suction bubbles appeared from said thread....

Must admit I think the front trunnions are one of the worst design features of our Triumphs and cant understand why, except for cost reasons, ball joints werent used. I would do the modern conversion except for cost reasons...

But surely the original set up is also an open cage bearing and that gets an oil supply? I can see a bearing with built in outer race will probably suffer from lack of oil so how about this: tip machined to accept 12 x 15 inner race sleeve (cut to correct length). then fit 13mm long 15 x 20 open cage needle roller which runs in 20 x 24 outer race sleeve (cut to correct length and reduce OD (22mm?) to suit bore machined in input shaft)...

I guess you mean the centre punch marks just above the triangle which as Pete says is standard. So yes I think the engine must have been apart and someone wanted to remember where each piston went and put a number of punches to match the cylinder number👍

Thats possible but also have to bear in mind the axial movement of the mainshaft relative to the input so the races inner and outer would need to be wider than the bearing itself just as the original was🤔

yes dont think its something to change very often and now that, on average, our old cars do so little mileage probably once per owner is enough!

Hmmm looks like Mr Black there just installed the bearing without worrying about any lube implications. Its true the lube hole on many gearboxes comes out at the mouth of the input shaft bearing and possibly will be unaffected by the shaft being bored to a larger size but the fact that the new bearings rollers are now encased rather than exposed as in a caged bearing I feel could really stop oil getting in....

Trouble is if the input is bored doesnt the new bearing surface need case hardening again☹️

yes electric fans is quite a common topic and can generate strong views. The feeling seems to be that a standard cooling system in good condition can work perfectly in the UK with the original mechanical fan and that if you need additional cooling then something is wrong. Certainly its worth remembering that our cars temperature gauges will move up and down in use while modern cars (if fitted) have theirs fixed by the electronics and only change when theres a problem. Also if a high temperature is experienced on the move (more than 5mph) changing the fan wont make much difference as it wont increase the cooling air flow by much so the fault lies elsewhere. Saying all this some people (myself included) do just like the comfort of knowing they have the extra cooling available from an electric fan for when they are stuck in traffic. Mine also helps circulate air under the bonnet as well as running on a while after engine turn off which is when there can be a spike in the coolant temperature.

What does the stuff that came out look like?

Yes definitely should be screwed on as far as possible while leaving the range of rotation to allow lock to lock steering movement. Saying that cant see that a turn or two short would lead to such rapid wear of the thread...

I think that refers to rocking of the trunnion on the VL indicating play in the thread.... These will be pattern part trunnions and like many of the bits supplied now I do wonder how similar they are to original specification. Brass for example wouldnt be as good OR as expensive as phosphor bronze🤔