johny
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Everything posted by johny
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Driver's door needs to be SLAMMED hard to close
johny replied to micmak's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
Wow at this late stage it might be a bit difficult! I imagine sealant was put between the overlap of the two halves and this will have stuck them😩 Good luck and remember to copaslip any bolts you undo to try and keep them free for any future work... -
Ok how about removing all plugs and then connect number one lead to a plug touching earth. With ignition on turn engine over by hand watching timing mark and the plug. Adjust to produce spark at right position...
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Herald estate 13/60 front suapension
johny replied to iana's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Have a good check though as they can look horrible but still have plenty of life. Metalastic were quality🤗 -
As I say very pleased with mine but it is almost 4" narrower than the standard rad so if you can fit something wider you should be able to reduce the thickness especially as the first is much more effective for cooling than the second...
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If I did mine again I would use an escort mk 1/2 aluminium rad. Some are the same dimensions as the original and going by the efficiency of my civic unit you could probably use a thinner 2 row version and then of course the fan could also go to one side to give maximum clearance. The pipe connections would still need to be hooked up but thats more straight forward than the civic rad....
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Ok. I doubt it because thats a 4 row version plus the aluminium fan shroud will add even more width! I used a 3 row, spal fan direct on core and did away with the old crank fan boss to give approx 15mm clearance...
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No, it needs mounting brackets fitting and right angle hoses on both connections that meet the standard hoses via a short lengths of aluminium tube. The latter is probably the same as you would have to do with that rad youre looking at...
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Ive got the same after Johns recommendation and Im very pleased with it although mine is more of a home made installation with no fancy welding involved😁
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Unfortunately the choice for the vitesse is quite limited. There are a couple of other offerings on ebay with the proper connections but north of 444 pounds! Its annoying as theres much more choice for TR6 which is quite similar but goes a bit too deep for the vitesse...
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The standard hoses definitely arent going to fit without modification Paul. The original rad had curved pipes top and bottom to meet the hoses which that unit doesnt have plus the inlet is further towards the centre. Im sure you could make up something but its too expensive to have to do that!
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Herald estate 13/60 front suapension
johny replied to iana's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
As long as the bushes are the same type ie not urethane one side and rubber the other I cant see a problem. Its not F1😁 Same with trunnions although if one side worn the other is likely to be the same. However bear in mind what people have found with ugly original components far outlasting new pattern replacements.... -
Yes I didnt fit the block thinking of camber as original spring sat so well but read lowering back helps to reduce oversteer. Seems then that I might not need the increased toe in as well👍
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Beware also that its not beyond the realms of possibility of reusing old Stanpart packaging or even it being made new to hold pattern parts. The value of some original new parts can be so much higher that its becoming worth doing this☹️
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Yes the front suspension can have its camber set with shims while the rear on a Herald can really only have its toe in/out adjusted with shims. Its clear when you see the drawings...
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Thats true John, any idea what the 0.5" lowering block will have done for my rear camber?
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I thought the fronts looked pretty good anyway and no camber adjustment on rear☹️
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Yes Ive just done a D type and wouldnt do a complete strip but have replaced all o rings and cleaned oil ways as cheap and easy to do. Presume J version similar👍
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Well youve only got to undo the nuts enough to slip in a shim and then tighten up. Start getting the penetrating oil on them now👍
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Easy to make and fit shims as long as the rear outrigger bolts come undone ok. Toe out makes turns easier and quicker but not too much....
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Well I think fronts look pretty even so you probably brake well before bends as is correct, maybe they could take a bit more pressure as Pete says. For the rears you could try an extra shim or two on the tie bars. Ive recently removed two each side on my Vitesse as the back used to come round too much on round abouts😳 Its worked a treat although I did put in a 0.5" lowering block at the same time. Yet to see how it affects tyre wear...
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Have the tyres been swopped around Chris? The fronts look more evenly worn than the rears which is unusual...
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Looks like the starter solenoid has failed.
johny replied to SpitfireGeorge's topic in Electrical System
The original was probably the round type with manual push button but they seem to be harder to find and more expensive than the square version... -
Strange about your blanking plug but I know there were different designs. Can only think the 3mm is to ensure iron core of plunger is correctly located in coil of solenoid before operation (reduces initial pull in current?) and maybe also then doesnt have too much speed when it whacks into the arm....
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The triumph workshop manuals available for free download on vitessesteve.co.uk have J type OD diagrams with part names but not numbers. Either the Dolomite Sprint or maybe later TR6 ones will probably be most helpful...
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Just being cautious I think Pete. Rulloyd at rest is the operating rod nut set 3mm away from the arm as per the manual? In the vid it looks to be a bit more....
