johny
-
Posts
7,710 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
44
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Everything posted by johny
-
Removing wooden dash facia from Vitesse (67, MK1 2 Litre)
johny replied to daverclasper's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
You need a short screwdriver and use it upside down, pretty much blind, to undo the two screws in the roof of the glove box👍 -
I think maybe I need to replace my 50 yr old spring washers...
-
Have you tightened your gearbox nuts while it was off or is just mine that seem to loosen off?
-
If the floor was just left exposed otherwise, Im not surprised the seat option was taken up so often...
-
oh yes I see youre looking for the door ones. Well Paddock have them at 45p each plus del and VAT so not bad if you include with other bits...
-
But theyre meant to slide onto the edge of cardboard so dont cover the hole or give support all the way round it. Also I think theyre the narrow size I was referring to...
-
I see the under dash mill board comes complete with fitting kit from the main suppliers but cant make out what they are and they dont seem to be sold separately....
-
This came up recently and believe theres two widths of those clips...
-
3 mystery GT6's: White DHP 7L, Red XEL 459K & Blue PKE 775G
johny replied to Mike Duffy's topic in My car's history
Could do with one on the Vitesse because I can definitely feel the steering getting lighter above 70mph and thats with 183kg of cast iron lump up front😲 -
Agreed. They wont be Bosch or Durite but some far eastern offering but should do the job ok
-
well the problem must be after the connector next to item 11 in the wiring diagram as the supply is still getting to the main beam indicator 12. Then as all 4 main beams dont work the high resistance has to be common to all so its either the connections between that first connector and the second or (more likely) in the earth return from the bulbs which unlike whats shown are not separate....
-
Heres the manual photo and I think yours will adjust a little further yet... Another possibility is to use the inner hole on the compensator which would angle it back more but at the loss of some mechanical advantage - have to see if its worth the trade off?
-
Hmmm that points to relay contact resistance generating heat which isnt good and can lead to a downward spiral. Are they genuine quality relays?
-
Not worried about the warm relay as the coil has resistance and current flowing through it which equals watts in the form of heat of which theres not much dissipation so the temperature will rise slightly...
-
The problem I can see Pete is diagnosing which bearing it is so although it could be a cheap n easy repair most people go for replacing everything at great cost. I suppose you could argue that if one bearing has gone the others cant be far behind?
-
Yes sorry got mixed up between those two repairers🥴
-
Hopefully crownwheel and pinnion are good. It could just be an output shaft bearing which is pretty straight forward to replace but unfortunately difficult to diagnose so a complete change of bearings and associated set up maybe required. Chris Witor has a good reputation for this work...
-
no, no it comes complete as a bit of a job to take a rack apart...
-
Definitely but I think most types of lights do...
-
Whats the problem with it?
-
well I dont like the idea of the steering being too tight but a little play isnt a show stopper. Just take it into account until you can get it changed - order the replacement and pay the exchange deposit so then you can swop the racks over at the same time...
-
The main Triumph spares dealers supply recon units and theyre probably all done by the same third party so its just a case of comparing prices...
-
I think the cable can be replaced from underneath without removing the tunnel although it will require a certain dexterity. Pretty sure that was what was what we did on my non OD Vitesse. Did you take the speedo out of its case and lube it or just from the outside?
-
Im afraid you have a worn rack and as usual the teeth are loose in the straight ahead position as thats where its been most used but not at the ends. Now you either have it right in one place or the other but not both without replacing it. However are you sure all the play is in the rack as it can be deceptive and it could be combined with wear in the rack ball joints, the track rod ball joints or even suspension components?
-
How did the cost compare Unkel?
