Nigel Clark

No, I don't think so. The Rover SD1 2.6 litre engine was coded PE166. Your P76 had a BL E series engine according to Wikipedia. Nigel

A Rover 2600 engine transplanted into a Triumph seems rather appropriate, as this 6 cylinder OHC design was intended to replace the OHV sixes in Triumph's big saloons. That plan was of course cancelled when the BL's Rover Triumph division decided to rationalise and build the Rover SD1 as their only large passenger car, withdrawing the big Triumph saloons and estates. Nigel

I bought a steel version from Jigsaw (now sadly gone) and it has the extra threaded holes Ian describes. The Club Shop version also has these holes: https://shop.tssc.org.uk/search?search_api_views_fulltext=sealing+block Nigel

My impression is that demand is currently driving prices up for good, usable classics. Expect this trend to continue through the summer. Post lock down, enthusiasts seem to want to get their hands on classics they can drive straightaway rather than a project or fixer upper. Nigel

All Vitesse 2 litre models left the factory with Girling 16P imperial calipers. That's not to say that metric replacements couldn't have been fitted later. My 72 GT6 has one imperial and one metric caliper when I bought it 20 years ago! Nigel

I'm a big fan of multi electrode plugs in our engines, but unlike Pete I've never found any problem with resistive versions. Bosch WR78 or NGK BUR6ET are widely available and from my experience work well, better than standard plugs. There's more info in earlier threads on this forum. Nigel

The torque for sump bolts is 8-10 lb ft according to the manual, but even that can be too much for the threads in the alloy sealing block. A good quality gasket with the bolts nipped up little more than finger tight will suffice. Also consider whether the gasket between front engine plate and block may be leaking, hard to distinguish from a problem with the sealing block. Again, this join needs a good quality gasket plus sealant, Reinzosil or Three Bond 1215 work well. Traditional gasket jointing compounds don't always work for this join, something I learned the hard way! Nigel

And the designer of the Renault Alpine was none other than Giovanni Michelloti. Nigel

Grey paintwork and minimal chrome is a very fashionable automotive look currently. Just give it a polish and drive it! Seriously, that looks like a super project. Good luck! Nigel

That looks a decent car but as Roger says it's priced at the top end of good 4As, looks like a dealer price and quite strong if it's a private sale. Roger knows everything worth knowing about 4As, so his advice is as good as you will ever get. The advert seems to imply the Surrey top is available separately. It's well worth having... perhaps a good haggling point if you decide this is the car for you? As for the thirst of the Webers, I wouldn't worry unless it was my only car and a daily workhorse. As a fun car, just enjoy the acceleration and the Webers' unique induction music as you put your foot down. Nigel

Good luck with the Alpine, a lovely looking sixties car. Series 5 with the 1725cc engine and 5 main bearing crank is the one I would choose. Please let us know how you get on. Nigel

Sorry, but thin form nuts are unlikely to withstand the torque required on the out axle shaft. It would be potentially dangerous to fit anything of a lesser speciation than the original part. Nigel

As above, that nut appears correct to me also. It's essential that the nylon locking ring engages fully, and I'm puzzled why it wouldn't. Nigel

Your Vitesse looks beautiful and, if I may say, that's a very well written advert. Good luck with the sale. Nigel

Remember how unleaded was going to kill all our classic car engines in short order? More 'end of the world tosh' to quote Pete. I ran the GT6 for nearly 30,000 miles on mainly super unleaded without additives and when I eventually removed the cylinder head for a full engine rebuild, there was only the slightest trace of valve seat recession. I'm convinced E5 will be fine for classics as long as good quality hoses and seals are used for the fuel system. We will have to wait and see about E10. Nigel

Yes, I'm going back about 3 years when I said the super was zero ethanol. Tesco Momentum is indeed now E5, and my classics still seem to get on fine with it. Nigel

E5 in the standard but zero ethanol in the super unleaded. Nigel

I agree with Pete (yes, really!), Spitfire brakes are decent especially with Mintex 1144 pads. As for the engine, why not simply enjoy the car with its present engine this summer? If you decide you would like more oomph, consider uprating the present engine as a winter project. Just my thoughts.... Nigel

I used to run a village garage with my brother and we stocked super unleaded (he's still there, I retired from it a few years ago). We would generally be taking fresh deliveries of standard unleaded and diesel every 7-10 days. For super, we refilled our tank roughly once per month. So the super did turn over slower but not enough to cause a problem. Nigel

Hi Paul, long time no see, I hope you're okay! I'm surprised your 2500 misfired on standard unleaded. Of course, our cars all prefer super unleaded at 97 octane or better still 99 octane like Tesco Momentum or Shell V-Power. The only expected problem with using standard unleaded at 95 octane would be pinking under load, which can be cured by retarding the ignition timing a couple of degrees (at the cost of reduced performance). Not sure why it would have misfired on the ordinary Texaco but sounds like you have cured the problem with fresh super unleaded. When touring Ireland in my TR6 I couldn't get super unleaded, so retarded the the ignition to stop it pinking on the ordinary fuel and it ran well enough, just a little down on power. Nigel

Yes, 10 thou cold inlet and exhaust for a standard TR5 cam. Nigel

I've always used the resistive versions of Bosch and NGK multi-electrode plugs in my Triumphs, and never had a problem. That's with electronic ignition and high output 'sports' coils. Nigel

Multi electrode plugs are best for our engines, NGK BUR6ET, or Bosch WR78. The search facility will bring up past threads about m/e plugs. Nigel

I've seen that mix of threads on my 1977 Scimitar GTE track rod ends, which has Triumph TR derived front suspension. The replacements were specified for an Austin Princess, no grease nipples though. Nigel

+1 Good to hear from you Keith, sorry I can't help with the valve clearances. Kent Cams provide camshafts for some Triumph specialists, so may be worth contacting them to see if they ground cams for Jigsaw. Nigel