Nigel Clark

The master cylinder failed suddenly on my GT6 on Monday morning, 2 hours before MoT test booking! I last replaced it nearly 20 years and 30k miles ago. I'm fitting a new cylinder over the weekend. In my experience, new seals in old cylinders don't last long. And after so many years, I reckon the car deserves a new master cylinder. Nigel

Well done to Aviv, Martin and the team, great to finally see this episode. Sadly, my career as a film star is probably over before it even started! Nigel

Thank you Paul, very helpful. I had a feeling this info was already on the forum but couldn't find it when searching. Nigel

Thank you Pete. Maybe I should stop being so tight and pay for the Revington sensor which will definitely fit. Nigel

The sensor needs to screw into the speedo output on the overdrive, where the normal angle drive would normally attach. As above, the thread is approximately 3/4" diameter and fairly fine pitch. Nigel

Thank you Pete. On the J-type I have on the bench, the fork in the overdrive holds a threaded output adapter with an approx 3/4" diameter thread. I think Demon Tweeks Smiths side is to fit the normal Smiths cable end, more like 1/2". So I'm still not sure. 18mm is close to 3/4" but would Laycock and Smiths have used a metric thread back in the day?? Does anyone know the thread type for sure? Nigel

Sir John Black, past managing director of Standard Triumph did a deal with Harry Ferguson to build his tractors under licence after WW2. The little grey Fergies were made at Standard's Banner Lane factory. Cash flow from tractor production bankrolled Standard Triumph car development through the 1950's. Nigel

I'm converting my GT6 to an electronic speedo that can be home-calibrated to match its 3.27:1 final drive and wheel/tyre combination, so I need to fit an electronic sensor to drive the new speedo. Rather than fit a bolt counting sensor by the propshaft, I like the neatness of the sensors that replace the (now redundant) speedo angle drive on the side of the overdrive. Revington TR have one that's suitable but it's expensive at £66: https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr8558-1/name/sensor-speedo-drive I think something like this Brantz sensor from Demon Tweeks would do the job cheaper: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/brantz-speed-sensors-241419/?sku=BNZBR4&istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wptilaxlm&istBid=t&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh_eFBhDZARIsALHjIKfn4xcRmayYspw7ENsutJ2ZJB585xjkuaGz8S6EclCS-eO2_s-Oa-waAsF8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Does anyone know the thread type on the Laycock overdrive's speedo output? And are all Laycock speedo threads the same, as I plan to swap the D-type overdrive for a J-type in the fairly near future? Thank you in advance. Nigel

+1 Pressure washers can remove paint and protective wax. Garden hose for cleaning my cars. Save the pressure washer for cleaning oil off the driveway! Nigel

This car has twin SU HS6. The point about flooding at idle still applies, so worth checking float chambers for float height adjustment and condition of needle valves. Nigel

Your compression readings are good. That suggests the first two rings in each piston are doing their job. The lowest (third ring, often called the oil control ring) on each piston prevents oil from climbing up the cylinders and entering the combustion chambers. My Scimitar engine had a problem with oil consumption but ran well with decent compression. When I stripped it down, the oil control rings were stuck in the pistons and lost their springiness, so ineffective, allowing oil to get above the pistons. Of course you don't want to strip the engine simply to check the rings on one or two cylinders. Sometimes, pouring diesel into the cylinders via the plug holes and leaving several days to soak will free stuck piston rings. Could be worth a try before driving deeper into the engine. One other thought... If you have access to a boroscope, try taking a look inside the cylinders to see if there's any visible scoring in the affected cylinders. There are cheap laptop compatible boroscopes on eBay. Nigel

The wheelbarrow twin exhaust is loud, loud enough to leave one's ears ringing after a long run. You have a good manifold. Couple that with a standard centre silencer and semi sport back box from the club shop, and you have a system that sounds purposeful without causing ear ache! As for setting up, fit the rich carb mixture needles recommended by some suppliers for use with sports exhausts and air filters, retune the carbs and you should find the engine runs fine. Standard ignition timing should be okay. That's how I ran my GT6 Mk3 for many years. Nigel

Same on my GT6 Mk3. Club Shop starter fitted with the original alloy spacer but no steel shims. Nigel

It could also be that the sump flange has distorted from the load, or sump bolt(s) have pulled out, most likely from the alloy rear crank oil seal housing, its threads aren't strong and won't take much abuse. Unfortunately, the obvious next step must be to remove the sump and check what's actually bent/stripped/damaged. Sorry not to offer a happier prognosis. Nigel

I use this EP80w90 GL4 from Comma for my Triumph gearboxes and diffs: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372411853071?epid=249087511&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item56b579e90f:g:ND4AAOSwakxdTVLr&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickk8ihYa55VeJusc0Ydu6jng2ebyMdY7Au5V7BhxHe3wpYk8sjpksKnqnximHdpDwWERJ9WWSQi6Yqrz7aWXiNLG3G19tVSiAJ2%2FdtPE2Y8gUIJJAtqjXb1hSlpcxz01JXJ8LM9L66T4cV3F8rtJwlWn34vw6MPhc9oP%2BzksO9GaCa1Fe0WfFhVSzGDyz20qZyFJJfo2f1RA9e%2B4%2BZG8gNDQUPcSDW3lDBhHyKaN6jenUQlktMXZr%2FDqTmZCfEh4K5rZapN7g8ZwDImDk8rAd5aw1jENYhqEDKe9s1ax6XrtV1QdUG6ahCa8HBTECCXtPcZyO6l0hagU2MLyW1cGUMRz3aT%2B%2BMWpWrfn6cTJL3YfsBuWF5DPotL37mM5firJkOhCHmaj8ptv5v78fzrkvKjZ0G5WmI38orm%2FcEVUdorCeblNjx0%2FsztnmzZ%2BxoquZr24dPpYUSH6kVM5%2Fhd%2BwEO%2BQfZ1ajQycU5WWjVz1vp9Ay1GJvddonY%2BHh%2Fo4%2FVMKlvaCvMWTfJ1dNOHgBro51uLkWq6papDiH2%2B4Nqp%2B1%2BO12QGfsX%2BnGGajBYV6%2BqoJgVLkIb%2BfbWBHqfDKvhHDWqyyba7PoW4LCEN64m2iUIhrGZ2cVPFVKySeYYWHx8VkIImkEC%2BYiHu4VDheBQSxjOWZFCf9puOl5BxcE5cPVnFPv%2BBfAqPf7er97DxXYR96tdf%2BqGQ7wSTudfMpZ47vmcyQZv3yakNLbegoXGNlXwaNNaMg1LRU3kkjFOr6oy55edbqRvnJ%2FjhqXCrdq6gQ076DqoG969b%2FV5Jw5QuSt3ZF4%3D|cksum%3A3724118530710beef2f6ef5a4f4dae71523d1675f60a|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 Halfords also list similar, for those in the UK (probably supplied by Comma): https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/gearbox-oil/halfords-gear-oil-ep-80w%2F90-gl-4-1l-724443.html Nigel

Unfortunately an aluminium spacer won't help, as aluminium is a very good conductor of heat. Also spacing the pump from the block will affect the stroke of the pump's operating arm, possibly reducing fuel delivery. Some pump and engine combinations use a fibre spacer. General the Triumph 4- and 6-cylinder OHV engines don't seem to be badly affected by fuel vaporisation. When it does happen, most often it's due to the routing of the copper fuel pipe from the pump to the carbs, or possibly a weak fuel pump. Make sure the pipe from pump to carbs doesn't rest against the engine, and particularly that it's not sitting against the water pump housing. There should be a metal clip on one of the water pump housing bolts. Make sure the clip is in place with its rubber grommet, and that it holds the fuel pipe away from the pump housing. You could also try wrapping the fuel pipe in insulating tube, like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114717830816?hash=item1ab5b72ea0:g:yT0AAOSwVLNfDKe4 I've used similar insulation successfully on the fuel feed to the Ford V6 in my Scimitar GTE, where vaporisation in the fuel pipe that runs over one cylinder head to the carb in the middle of the Vee is a big problem. I've never needed to do the same on my GT6 or Spitfire though. Nigel

I've used Classical Dash: http://classical-dash.co.uk/ Excellent workmanship but be prepared for a long lead time, unless ordering and off-the-shelf replacement. Nigel

A good programme, with insight into the leaders of the Coventry motor industry from their family descendants. Anyone notice Chris Allen (former TSSC Birmingham Area Organiser), in the Herald with presenter Mark Evans at MIRA? Nigel

Set to record! Nigel

I've always had mechanical oil pressure gauges on my classics. A retro fit Smiths gauge, adaptor and plastic pipe bought from the Club Shop 20 years ago on my GT6, and factory fit mechanical gauges on my TR6 and Scimitar GTE. None have given trouble. There is an aftermarket stainless braided pipe available from Scimitar specialists but I never felt the need to fit one. Mechanical gauges are simple to fit and, in my experience, they are reliable. Nigel

The kind of child only a parent could love! Nigel

Don't be too concerned about having to change the gasket behind the front plate, if it needs it. I've just done this on my GT6 and would say is an easier job than replacing the sealing block with engine in situ. Nigel

The Club Shop supplies fitting kits with the necessary clamps, rubber mountings etc. That's the easiest way to ensure you have everything required. However, Mikalor clamps are better than the standard U bolt clamps (search the forum for more info). If you go that route, you will need to buy the necessary sizes of Mikalor and rubber mountings, working out what's needed. More complicated than buying the fitting kit but a better result in the long run. Final tip is to assemble the pipe joints with copper grease, not exhaust paste. Makes life so much easier when needing to take the exhaust apart in future. Nigel

It's fairly straightforward to measure valve lift with a dial gauge on top of exhaust and inlet rockers, and this may give a clue to the type of cam fitted. Checking valve opening and closing degrees is more difficult but with the radiator removed, it may be possible to attach a 360deg protractor to the crank pulley and deduce approximate valve timing. Nigel

Probably engine back and a GT6 bonnet to gain enough clearance for the tall OHC Rover engine in a Spitfire. Nigel