Nigel Clark

Very likely to be a fuel problem. I recommissioned my old Triumph 650 bike a few months ago. It had been standing for 2 years. The inside of the carb was full of solid deposits and the fuel in the tank smelled like varnish. I stripped and cleaned the carb, put fresh fuel in the tank and it was fine. Modern fuel doesn't last, especially when exposed to air and/or moisture. Nigel

That's real progress, you must be pleased! My TR6 gearbox is always notchy going into second when cold and I remember a mate's TR4A from years ago was the same. Seems a common feature of the big Triumph 'box but they carry on working fine for years and years like that. Nigel

1-5-3-6-2-4 Nigel

My answers as follows: 1. Yes. It's easier to tighten the nut and compress the olive off the car, plus you can disassemble to check the olive is gripping the pipe properly. 2. Yes, but make sure strands of PTFE tape can't get out of the joint into the cooling system. 3. I've never tried flaring the pipe so can't comment from experience. But it sounds like a good idea. Nigel

+1 That's exactly what I would do. Thermostats don't last forever, they're almost a service item. Nigel

Really sorry to hear of your continuing travails with this job. So much bad luck, things must change for the better soon. Best of luck, I admire your patience. Nigel

Focusing on one car is a sure fire way to make progress. It's great to have multiple classics, but there's never enough 'playtime' to get them all perfect! Nigel

For the exhaust, why not try Chris Witor? He won't sell anything if he's not completely happy with the quality. And assemble it with Mikalor clamps, as has been discussed recently in the Cooling System forum. Nigel

Hi Cliff, Don't know of its just me but I can't open your file and don't recognise the file extension. Would you be able to upload a .jpg image? Nigel

Well done Mathew. Back on the road soon! Nigel

How are you getting on Mathew? Hope your car going back together okay. Nigel

Could the pulley have come from another Triumph 6 (several US emission controlled models required ignition timing after top dead centre)? I would expect CP engine crank pulleys to be marked in degrees BTDC, with major marks at 10 & 20 degrees BTDC. These engines usually need 11-12, degrees static advance. If in doubt, I would set TDC accurately through no.1 plug hole, and measure around the pulley as Pete has suggested. Nigel

That looks usable to me. If I was being fussy I'd get it skimmed but don't think it's absolutely necessary. I do hope you still feel the flywheel was worth having. Nigel

Mikalor is also my 'clamp of choice' for exhausts. The design gives even pressure around the circumference, so it's possible to get the joint really tight without deforming the pipe. Nigel

I like and use Mikalor clips but as Nick has said, they do have a short operating range. I still believe in them, as they theoretically exert a more even clamping force around the circumference of the joint. They are also easier when time comes for disassembling, and leaks are a rarity. So plenty of benefits! I've invested in a range of sizes so I can pick the right one for fuel hoses, radiator hoses, heater hoses or whatever. Nigel

All sorted and Mathew will collect his new/old flywheel tomorrow! Nigel

All ready for a new flywheel tomorrow! Nigel

Good news I think! My 2500S flywheel is in decent condition. No visible cracks, ring gear looks almost unworn with 117 teeth. The clutch face has light surface corrosion, and would benefit from cleaning up with sandpaper. If you're being fussy, for a car you're planning to keep long term, it might be worth getting the face lightly skimmed, but not essential. I've also got a serviceable Borg & Beck clutch cover you can have if you need it. Just let me know and we can arrange collection via PM. Nigel

Hi Mathew, I will check my flywheel this afternoon and post pics of each side. From memory, it's in usable condition though there may be some wear on the ring gear. It certainly should be 'bolt straight on', as it came from a 2500S with an MM engine number. Nigel

Hi Matthew, I have a spare 2500S flywheel but is Market Harborough in Leicestershire too far for your to collect? I'm less than 10 minutes from junction 3 of the A14. The 2500S engine is in my GT6 with the lighter GT6 flywheel, so I will never need the original. I can dig it out and check the condition if you're interested. Nigel

CJ Autos have a good reputation. That is a very competitive price. My Draper trolley jack has made working on my classics so much easier. I've no doubt you will find the same. Nigel

She Dolomite1500 HL should have twin SUs, like the Spit 1500. Nigel

Aviv, Pete mentions hog rings. If you need some, I've got hog ring pliers and spare hog rings that you're welcome to use. Alternatively, some use small zip ties in place of traditional hog rings. Seems like a good idea to me, having had experience of using hog rings! Nigel

Safety warning: caustic soda is highly corrosive to human tissue. If you try using it, wear goggles and chemical resistant gloves or better still gauntlets. Any splashes must be washed immediately with lots of water. If it gets in your eyes, irrigate with lots of water and go straight to A&E. Nigel

I've been using this Draper 2 tonne low profile jack for a couple of years: https://www.drapertools.com/product/61829/Professional-Garage-Trolley-Jacks-(2-Tonne) It's great, low enough to get under the GT6 chassis, with enough lift to get the cars up high on axle stands for decent access. A word of caution if I may... You mention jacking up a car then lowering its wheels onto ramps. Our cars' suspension goes through considerable changes in camber moving from normally loaded position to full drop (not just the swing axle Heralds and derivatives). As the camber changes, the effective track or distance between the wheels changes. Lowering a car with suspension on full drop onto a pair of ramps may push the tops of the ramps outwards as the suspension compresses, risking them them toppling over. Our cars have good chassis members and personally, I would feel much safer placing axle stands under the chassis. Nigel