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One popular home brew penetrant is just ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) mixed with some combination of acetone, kerosene, and/or mineral spirits. If mild anti rust properties are needed, lanolin is sometimes added. Ed

Oh! Oh! Do a TR6! Do a TR6!

Tom-- If you are planning a rotisserie restoration, you presumably have some welding skills. Have you considered building a rotisserie? Ed

Thanks, Peter. No grease nipple, but plenty of anti-seize. Ed

You may have to resort to drilling. The radius arm bolt is trickier because It's pretty long. http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-9/GT6-9.html Ed

After claaning my TR6 fuel tank:

Couple of thoughts on buying a rebuild "kit". You probably wont know the brand or quality of the bearings. A good rebuild includes shims with thickness determined by a measurement process. Unless they include a wide range of shims, you may still have to find the right ones. You might be better off buying needed parts individually. Ed

Yeah, I think the camera was a little tilted. Ed

Yes, as mentioned in the article, the flywheel and clutch are just mounted temporarily so they don't wander off. No disc or pilot bush yet. Ed

I was surprised how light the GT6 flywheel was, compared to the TR6. I took off a couple more pounds anyway. http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-61/GT6-61.html Ed

Soldering stainless is not easy. It does take the right materials as mentioned, but some skill, too. An inexperienced solderer will struggle, and likely make a mess. Ed

Best way to ensure a hose stays on a tube is a "bead" on the tube. I addad this bead to my new intake manifold coolant pipe using a modified pair of "lineman" pliers. Ed

On this side of the pond, around 20 cf/hr is common. I believe that is about 9-10 lpm. Ed

This is a TR6, but the idea is similar. You can construct sort of a surrogate frame with most or all of the body mounting points in the right places. Once the body is fastened down and dimensions are checked, the door braces can be removed. Ed

It's mostly for looks, I think. I like it on the boot lid, too. Ed

Sorry, Roger, I neglected to translate from King's to American English. We tend to call the prop shaft a drive shaft, and drive shafts axle shafts. Ed

The brackets allow you to use non-rotoflex dampers on a rotoflex car. This shows how they work, though installation will be a little different if the body is on the frame. http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-41/GT6-41.html Ed

This is on the spline end of a '69 GT6 drive shaft. Of the eight ways to assemble the joint, seven of them are wrong. There was a cutout on one of the arms to clear the zerk. Ed

Not sure why honing should be necessary. Reaming to size is easier and quicker, and can easily provide the necessary size accuracy and precision. Ed

Car sheet metal of the era seems to be about 19 gauge. This is a standard gauge, but not that common outside the automotive industry. I think most restorers use use 18 or 20 gauge. If you buy it in metric size, 1mm is pretty close. Ed

A dashboard is essentially an outdoor application, even for a non-convertible. For a dashboard finish, look to the wood boat crowd. A true marine varnish has attributes that will work well on a dash. I used Epiphanes, but there are others. Ed

Dont know if this is helpful, but the TR6 definitely used walnut on their dashes. This is documented in several period ads. My GT6 dash appears to be the same wood as the TR6. Ed

I don't have a drawing, but there are some pics of the construction on this page and on some subsequent pages up to about page 39: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-34/GT6-34.html Ed

Yes, thanks, your latest quote is much better. The first one was apparently just a case of sloppy writing. It implied that Calcium and Magnesium carbonates are somehow decomposed by boiling water temps. It is the Bicarbonates that are unstable, and decompose to carbonates, which may precipitate if the concentration is high enough. I'm not sure how much it actually softens the water--it certainly depends on initial mineral concentrations, but it surely wont make soft water out of hard water. Ed

I'm not sure where that info about carbonates came from, but I would dispute it. First, calcium carbonate wont decompose at boiling temps in neutral solution. Second, magnesium carbonate and hydroxide have roughly the same solubility in water at 100 degC. Can you reveal the source? Ed