Jump to content

ed.h

Forum User
  • Posts

    115
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ed.h

  1. I've used some of the cheap ones on bronze bushings, and they worked fine. Ed
  2. The original finish is very tenacious, and the veneer very thin and fragile in places. If you have no experience with this kind of thing, removing the finish without damaging the veneer will be difficult. Trying to repair the finish will likely end with color variations. Reveneering would likely give better results. Ed
  3. I use one as a cleaning step before electroplating. I clean the parts well as i can with solvents and wire brushes or wheels then in the US tank it goes. When I hit the switch, I immediately see plumes of crud come from recesses and crevices. Ed
  4. If the base metal is aluminum (you can easily tell by weight), they are certainly anodized. This is an electrolytic process and not a paint. Ed
  5. Some ingenious work shown on this thread. I fixed up my tunnel back in the 80s with aluminum and fiberglass patches, and it worked great for decades. In my current restoration, I decided I might be able to design and make a tunnel from scratch, with a few tweaks. http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-74/GT6-74.html Ed
  6. ed.h

    CRC Evapo-rust

    Evaporust works well, especially if you need to preserve plating or paint on an object, but i find it gets spent much faster than some cheaper and quicker acid based products. Ed
  7. That's pretty typical with HCl because of left behind chloride. OTOH, I use quite a lot of HCl, and with proper cleaning (but no explicit neutralization), I don't see a flash rust problem. Ed
  8. Vinegar is a weak acid, and will dissolve rust. Slightly stronger acids will do it quicker, and without the smell. Ed
  9. I added a port to access the speedo cable fitting. The whole cover was a one-off. More pics here: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-74/GT6-74.html Ed
  10. I used Silicone O-ring cord stock. It comes in various thicknesses. Ed
  11. These were made from Delrin, an acetal plastic with good compression strength and lubricity. More pics here: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-8/GT6-8.html Ed
  12. Weight of course depends on what is included. 6 cyl block is 135 lb. Crank and bare head each about 60 lb. Ed
  13. You seem to be asking if gauges can be refurbed DIY. Yes, many have done it: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-43/TR6-43.html http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-29/GT6-29.html Ed
  14. All of the tools I looked at for inserting those bullets seemed flimsy and overpriced. My solution was to do a slight mod to a pair of "channel lock" type pliers. Ed
  15. I found that the replacement pins were all slightly oversized, which might be OK, since some of the wear is to the bore. The bores will still likely need drilling and/or reaming. If the bores are too big, you can sleeve them. Boring TR6 hinges: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-62/TR6-62.html Sleeving GT6 hinges: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-40/GT6-40.html Ed
  16. It's not easy to find good information on this, but here is some pure speculation: The Four wire may have an explicit ground wire, while the two wire uses the case for the ground connection. There are two ways for the regulator to sense the system voltage. In "remote sense", there is an explicit wire that connects directly to the battery. In "machine sense", the regulator senses battery voltage from the same wire that charges the battery. This might be hogwash. Ed
  17. You could consider Italian-made Spal fans: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-58/GT6-58.html Ed
  18. This is a useful table for comparing plastics properties. Ignoring the engineering ("designer") plastics, and focusing on some of the more common plastics for this application, Delrin acetal is designated as POM H, Nylons as PA, UHMWPE as UMHW, Teflon as PTFE. The most important properties would be Compressive Strength (higher is better) and Coefficient of Friction (lower is better). For example, PTFE (Teflon) is very slippery, but also very weak in compression. The table doesn't seem to include fortified plastics, like Nylatron, which I believe is just a Nylon infused with Molybdenum disulfide to reduce friction, which would seem to make it a good candidate. https://precisionpunch.com/wp-content/pdf/PropertyComparisonChart.pdf
  19. They were home made: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-8/GT6-8.html Ed
  20. I used Delrin (Acetal). It is almost as slippery as PTFE, but has much higher compressive strength. Ed
  21. Signs like that are a thing. This is on my office wall. Ed
  22. New stainless tube in a TR6 manifold: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-16/TR6-16.html Ed
  23. Colin-- I didn't keep meticulous records beyond what's on my page, but I'm sure that all mounting points had at least one pad. Ed
  24. This is a common confusion. All the suppliers disagree. See if this helps. It's for a GT6, but it should be similar. Actual body mounting starts about halfway down the page. http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-42/GT6-42.html Ed
×
×
  • Create New...