Gully

My handbook states 'place the jack under a body mounting bolt at the corner of the chassis nearest to the wheel being lifted. Make sure the jack lifting pad is square on the chassis'. So the key is making sure you're on the chassis and not the tub! I tend to use the same points at the rear as I do with the trolley jack, whereas I trolley jack the front under the crossmember as opposed to under the outrigger body bolts with the scissor jack. Gully

Thanks for the progressive outlook, Jane. All sounds very positive and, most importantly, controlled! As many have said, the different social media seem to have different uses - very much horses for courses. I wouldn't ask about my overdrive on Twitter and expect to get a useful answer in 140 characters! However, I'll happily post pictures of my car or Triumphs at car shows generally via Facebook - on both my own feed and posted to the TSSC group. Forums (or Fora for the pedants) are great for technical stuff as they become excellent archives. The important thing is for the Club to be accessible to people through whichever route suits them. Gully

Thanks Pete. One for a warmer spring day as I need a new tunnel seal anyway! Gully

I must admit to being a little disappointed that TSSC has stuck with the tax disc membership indicator again this year. I thought it a nice novelty last year, but I, like many others I'm sure, have now gone down the route of a 'period' tax disc and finding room for two holders on a GT6 windscreen isn't ideal. I wonder if we will return to the smaller cling sticker at some stage? Anyone else had similar thoughts? Cheers, Gully

I have a similar issue apparently developing to that outlined above, but with slight differences as outlined below... The D type overdrive on my GT6 has started engaging slowly, or struggling to engage under load. If I take the load off the drivetrain it engages smoothly and quickly, staying engaged under all conditions without slipping. My first thought was that the oil level in the gearbox was low (it does leak), but having checked it and topped up a little as required (100ml), the problem remains. I'm guessing it's a tunnel out and check the solenoid throw and clean the filters as the next step, unless anyone has any other pearls of wisdom? Many thanks, Gully

I have the same tool Pete has identified - bought it from Chic Doig on EBay. Very simple to use. Gully

The issue with the iPad is that when you press and hold the thumbnail you get various options for it (save, open in new window etc), but the location property is embedded in the menu header and inaccessible. If you open in a new tab, the header URL is shown as a general TSSC zone, but not the specific file - no idea why on that. I guess the way forward if working solely on an iPad would be to actually save the thumbnail within the gallery as a separate image, or back onto the photo stream and then upload again as a new image. Thanks again, Gully

Many thanks, Kevin! The need for right clicking is always a barrier on a tablet... All the best, Gully

I've managed to upload a photo into my galley now, but blowed if I can work out how to make it my avatar! I suspect the photo is too large, as when I select the option to use it as my photo I just get a small box that I can move around the image, but not enlarge. Guess I need to get off the iPad and onto the PC where my photo software is and try a smaller file size... Still - a step closer Gully

Thanks all. Having gone back to the job in the daylight today (was racing dusk last night and an appointment with a pint at our local TSSC meeting!), I removed the new panel and still found the door tricky to close. Turns out a former piece inside the capping had been pushed upwards by the better fitting panel and was causing the issue. Bit of reshaping with the Stanley knife and the door card fitted without fettling. Still a little more difficult to close than before, but nothing that won't bed in. Just the driver's side to do now! Doug - yes, PLC do make the 'proper' repro split vinyl and fabric panels - that's what I have. Not sure about the colours, but my originals were black and so are the replacements. I've also managed to save and re-use the little silver capping on the door card - I'm sending Owen some detail pictures of those as whilst he knew of the capping trim, he'd never actually seen it. Gully

Hi all, A minor issue in the grand scheme of things, but irritating all the same and I hope the collective knowledge here may be able to assist please... I / my car received a pair of new door cards from Park Lane Classics for Christmas. I fitted the first one yesterday (near side), only to find that whilst it looks great, I now can't close the door without an almighty shove! The tight area seems to be the bottom corner of the door (hinge end). Okay, there are wear marks on the originals where they have been sandwiched against the door seals, but I wouldn't have expected the difference I'm encountering. I will drop Owen at Park Lane a note too, but has anyone else encountered this and come up with a solution? Many thanks, Gully

Best thing I did for the wipers on my GT6 was buy a set of NOS Trico PRB2-12 wiper blades off EBay - they're the correct curved screen blades and are curved in the right direction, which is more than can be said for the modern parts I've tried (Tex). Worth looking out for them - they come up from time to time and do work with the orig 7mm arms. Gully

John's correct - that's the case with mine which was poly bushed a couple of years ago (I bought the blue kit from Canleys). Gully

Picked up the Haynes Zenith Stromberg manual cheaply off EBay and it includes the needle application charts. Turns out there were 3 different needles for the UK model Mk 3 GT6 as follows: 1970 carb ref 3369L/R needle B5AJ 1971/72 carb ref 3335L/R needle B5BT 1972/74 carb refs 3507RH/LH & 3432RH/LH needle B5CF All with Blue springs. Gully

Confused picture isn't it! I'm conscious that my early Mk 3 has always run rich and in the early pictures of the restoration the previous owner completed it was running pancake filters, which had been changed to the standard air box by the time I purchased the car. I was going to check the needles fitted and wanted a reference to see if they were right or not - but I couldn't find anything definitive. No plans to change the filter arrangements. Most sources seem to agree that the later Mk 3 needs the B5CF, but both B5AJ and B5BT are listed in various places for the early Mk 3 cars (which mine is - KE83, built Nov 70) with CDSE carbs. One source indicates that the B5BT was for the Triumph 2000 only... Thanks all for your inputs, Gully

Hi all, Just wondered if anyone had a definitive list of metering needles for Strombergs and their applications, please? I can't find anything official on the web and there's contradictory advice across the various car fora. I'm specifically interested in needles for the early GT6 Mk 3 - with both the standard air box and pancake filters (which I assume would need different needles to optimise). Thanks, Gully

Good to see the new ranges of TSSC clothing at the NEC yesterday, along with a great selection of Triumphs in Hall 3 from all the leading Triumph marque and model clubs. Thanks to all the volunteers and owners who made it possible. I thought it a shame the TSSC stand was a little separated from the others, otherwise there could have been a Triumph Village! Despite wandering the show for many hours, I still didn't spot a single GT6... :-( Other than that, a grand day out! Anyone else from here go along? Gully

Happy birthday! Sounds as if you've had a good day, which is great Is that 3 meals in one day?! I can only reiterate all the thanks posted here for the support you provide to us all, as well as your efforts on arranging events etc for Herts and Beds area. All the best, Gully

Happy birthday! We need a picture of said picture, please Gully

Any news on this yet? I know it's out of Admin's control, but it's been a while. Thanks, Gully

Thanks Pete. Mine has MoT history back to October 2010, which is when the previous owner completed the restoration, so all makes sense. What I don't know is how long it was off the road prior to restoration - 2nd owner had it from around 1980 until mid 2000s. Gully

I had a similar issue when turning right - usually on the first occasion after reversing. Turned out to be a worn near side lower wishbone bush allowing a little lateral movement under load. Just a thought. Gully

My Mk 3 GT6 has exactly the same issue. With the sender unit float in the empty position the gauge reads one quarter full. That's with a separate gauge and slow moving needle! The resistance question is one I've been meaning to ask - will give mine a check. Gully