Gully

My books say from Jan 72 the Triumph 2000 cylinder head was fitted to the GT6 - from engine KE10001. The domed pistons were introduced to make up some of the difference caused by the deeper combustion chambers, but the compression ratio still dropped from 9.25:1 to 9.0:1. The milder camshaft introduced at the same time to improve emissions didn't help performance either. The GT6 Mk3 parts book suggests a further change at KE20000. Gully

My GT6 with 13lb rad cap will perform in a similar manner. I got caught in a bad traffic queue a few weeks ago: engine was up to temperature when I met the back of the queue. Over the next 35-40 min we crept forward, with me eyeing the temperature gauge. It moved from just below half (its usual position) to around 3/4 quite quickly, then slowly moved up to just below the red where it sat for 10 minutes before I cleared the queue and got onto the A1. Within a mile of normal flowing traffic the gauge was reading its usual mark again. I flushed my block through when I changed the rad to an updated core one last year. Gully

Just one thought back on thread (perish the idea!) - I had a thrumming style noise from the rear of my GT6 when it was running too much rear toe. Disappeared when the wheels were properly aligned - free fix too! Gully

Welcome! Great to see a lovely early car Gully

I've used the club shop aerosols and touch up paints with Halfords primers (standard and high build) with no compatibility issues. Gully

That's useful to know - thanks Doug Gully

Is that the o-ring around the needle adjusting screw which is retained by the infamous spragg washer? Have thought about doing mine, but keep deciding that topping up the dash pots more often is considerably easier! Gully

My Wanner gun was either £15 or £18 from the autojumble at Luton Transport Festival. It copes fine with pumping EP80/90 through a grease nipple as long as it's aligned okay. £75 seems somewhat over-priced... Gully

My GT6's engine mounts look like your discarded ones - I've been wondering if they might be contributing to the clutch judder I'm getting in reverse gear (particularly bad when the engine bay temps are high). Gully

It's the trip reset for the speedo. The end labelled speedo screws into the back of the speedometer and the other end mounts just under the fascia. Can never remember which way it turns, but it turns the trip back to OOO.O Gully

Sounds like a GT6 footwell!

All subjective as to right and wrong. I learnt to drive in the 1980s and until I bought my Triumph had never owned or driven a car with indicators on the rhs. My Dad's Mk 1 Escort had them on the right, but from his Mk2 Escort onwards they've been on the left. My wife's 1990's Nissan Primera also had them on the left. If I had the choice I'd go for indicators on the left as that's what I'm most used to, but I don't actually care! As for the stickers, I think the headlamps one was the first thing to fall of my Triumph after I bought it! Gully

Good to see another Herts & Beds GT6! Looks like it's had a new rear spring? Hope to see you at Duxford or The Crown, Gully

Good beer / black stuff! Gully

My GT6 has a lucas AB12 electronic ignition fitted. I experimented with different plug gaps (having re-gapped from 31 thou to the book value when I first serviced the car) and found 30 thou to be best - car seemed 'flat' with the gap in line with the handbook. Gully

I successfully tackled the cleaning of the green Jewel light in-situ on Sunday morning using hi-tech workshop equipment - namely lightly moistened cotton buds! Holding the speedo up to the sunlight, all three jewels now shine beautifully Gully

I suspected that may be the case! Thanks all - I'm sure I can live with it Gully

I'm going to be changing my GT6 speedometer for a correct ratio version as I picked one up recently (also the bearings in mine are going). However, I've noticed the oil pressure green plastic 'jewel' in the replacement is dirty and / or damaged - quick attempt to clean it with a cotton bud did nothing. Are these removable without taking the gauge apart, or not, please? The one in my current speedo is fine, so I'm thinking I could swap them over. Thanks, Gully

The captive nuts look in decent enough condition and the existing cones screw in with no problems at all. The nuts supplied with the new polyurethane cones don't fit the removed cone threads, so could be a case of metrication, or just error. The new cones came with two nuts and two anti-shake washers on each thread, so clearly not expecting to be screwed into a 1970s captive nut! Gully

Another vote for Wanner guns here - I have one for grease and one for EP90. I've not had issues with leakage. Gully

I've just bought some polyurethane bonnet cones from Rimmers as I was fed us with adjusting the relatively new but crumbling rubber ones on my car. Unfortunately, the GT3 Mk3 cones screw into a sliding captive nut and the Rimmers ones have the wrong thread. I'll be complaining and sending back tomorrow... Next stop the Club ones - need to order a few other bits anyway! Gully

Glad to see you're out and about blogging again! You're not the only Triumph driver currently making the most of foreign climes - I passed a very nice looking French registered Dolly Sprint on the M25 yesterday! Look forward to hearing all about it Gully

Welcome! Gully

One of those semi skilled muppets at a tyre centre in Stevenage managed to strip 3 nuts across 2 wheels on my GT6 trying to put 110 lbs on them - thought a Ford Focus spec would be about right... I'm still on the original studs! Since then I've left the car at home and taken only the wheels to have tyres put on, before reattaching myself! Gully

Thanks, Pete! Gully