Gully

I know this thread hasn't been the most active in terms of participation, but I've been thoroughly enjoying it, so thanks Steve! Looking forward to CA Britten up in Liverpool - original supplier of my GT6! Gully

Sorry - just realised there are two of these threads running! That said, I'm not able to assist I'm afraid. Gully

I have the same wheels / tyre size / car combination and run 28 psi all round - I found with the lower pressure on the front the steering was heavy and I could feel too much slop / lateral movement on the sidewalls. I'm running Avon fronts and Hankook rears. When the fronts wear out (or more likely get too old!), I'll go for Hankooks there too. Gully

Sorry - what are you asking? Gully

I see according to Rimmers the fuel tank references are different between early and late GT6s, but my parts catalogue indicates it's not an early / late issue, but Germany v the rest of Europe (US is different again). All done to confuse! Anyway, after all this my early GT6 has the right tank and sender, yet still never reads below 1/4 full! Voltage stabiliser is fine too. Reads perfect accurately from full down to 1/4, then stays there. If you lift the sender out, it still reads 1/4! Must try a replacement one day, but I know when it gets to 1/4 I have 50 miles left... Gully

I think Kevin is looking at the breather pipe which connects to the sender unit in the parts diagram. My sender unit doesn't have this breather port - I suspect this is missing from 'modern' replacements. Gully

I have 2 Wanners too - one for grease ('borrowed' from my Dad who bought it in the 60s) and an identical one I picked up from an autojumble at Luton Transport Festival which is filled with gear oil. No leaks from either . Gully

My Mk 3 GT6 doesn't generally need topping up between annual oil changes and I do around 2500 miles per year in it. But there is no 'norm' really. I had 2 Vectras on an S plate a few years ago. The first one, which I had from new, was run in carefully as per the instructions, always used around 500ml per 5000 miles, right up to the point when my now wife wrote it off! The replacement from the company car pool was one which looked as though it had been through a much harder life to get to the same mileage, but never needed a drop between the 10000 mile services. Gully

So, having procured a replacement speedometer via the great Bay of E and added it to the growing 'spares' pile in the shed, my existing speedometer has decided to go quiet on me again. Clearly, all it needed was two weeks of weather and holiday induced rest! That's the sort of repair I like! Just leaves me with a rust bubble needing repair and an overdrive to fix... Cheers, Gully

Thanks all! One for after Drive it Day :-) Gully

I'd be interested in a set of discounted stainless steel Mk 3 bumpers! Rear on mine is okay, but front is shot and a new front one will show up the okay rear... Gully

Hi Stewart Did you access the rear of your speedo via the centre dash panel as opposed to from below? Thanks, Gully

My car runs Minilites - as fitted by the PO. However, when I bought it I also took ownership of the original steel wheels. My plan is to refit these following their refurbishment as I prefer the original look, but I suspect the extensive corrosion may have rendered them irretrievable... Gully

Hi all, My GT6's speedo needle has always been a bit wavy at certain speeds, which I've put down to the need for a bit of cable lubrication required at some stage. However, over the past couple of weeks the speedo has developed a rotation- related scrape, which is fully speed dependent. Mostly clears above 45mph, but is present up to that and also when slowing below it again. The scrape is in time with the waving needle and poking my hand under the dash whilst moving I can feel the scrape through the speedo body. Mileometer seems to be unaffected. I'm wondering if the cable is not fully engaged in the speedo, or if there could be a bearing issue in the speedo. Any thoughts or guidance welcomed! Many thanks, Gully

Nice bloke and great quality work too. Glad to hear he's back at work after his heart troubles. Gully

I completed the same upgrade a year or so ago. I piggybacked a live feed from the wiper switch (which I changed to a rocker unit at the same time) and earthed to the body via the pump mounting. Current is low and not for any protracted period; Triumph's fuses easily accommodate! Gully

Not sure what car you have, but Robsport picked up that the NS driveshaft was lightly contacting the chassis of my Mk 3 GT6 when they undertook the CV conversion. There is a very slight twist to my chassis which was the cause. The removal of a minute section of flange overcame the issue for my car - it really was a very slight rub - but depending on the extent of problem you have, you may need a different solution. Gully

I can thoroughly recommend Park Lane for foams and covers - I did my GT6 seats a couple of years ago and was delighted with the outcome. Halfway through doing my door cards now with more product from Owen. I have tickets for Triumphest and Silverstone classic too Gully

I know it was the standard equipment, but for my money 1st gear was too tall - no argument with those who are happy with the compromise on acceleration in favour of non-overdrive cruising. Without OD, my feeling was that the gearbox needed a wider range of gearing. Each to their own. Gully

Pete's right about avoiding over gearing. When I bought my GT6 it had a 3.27 diff and overdrive - rarely used the overdrive (aside from motorway / dual carriageway blasts) and pulling away uphill took way too much clutch slipping for my liking. Swapped to a 3.63 diff and it's ideal gearing for 'fun' roads and perfectly happy on faster stuff. I think Cookie runs the same combination. Gully

Well, I wrote to the editor praising the new look, but criticising the paper used inside, and was delighted to receive an immediate reply. The publisher has promised an improved paper stock for the next issue - more aligned with the previous quality, which is great news. Top marks to TW editor, Simon Goldsworthy, for both responding to both my message and addressing the paper issue - thank you. Gully

I'm a TW subscriber - no issues with the new look as it was a pretty cluttered layout before, but the paper is awful! I shall be providing feedback as requested in the editorial. Gully

I usually stay logged in on the iPad, but had to re-log on a couple of times in the week - seems back to normal now. Possibly an update or two on the forum software? Gully

This thread's taken an interesting direction! I'd never considered I may have the wrong door seals as mine look worn enough to be original - Furflex finished, but a thin balloon seal profile. They've clearly been in place a long time and look 'period' so were clearly replaced at some point in the car's life. With regards to the join point, mine are jointed in the middle of the sill. Gully

In the GT6 / Vitesse workshop manual there is a table giving the laden and unladen geometry figures. Interestingly, in the unladen state the rotoflex cars have the same front and rear toe figures, but in the laden state whilst the front toe is the same, the rear is greater on the GT6 - testament to different springs I guess. My point is that I don't think you can assume the Spitfire and Herald figures are the same. Gully