daverclasper

Thanks Dan Electrickery not my strong point. So fit dynamo (so it it is earthed?), then would a wire from pos terminal of battery to small terminal on dynamo do it?. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Intend fitting my apparently recon dynamo (if I can the pulley off the old one). It was bought off a private seller on ebay some years ago. Can I assume it is negative earth do you think. If not, what harm may it do if I fit it. Also is there a simple test to determine it's polarity please, if I should do this before I fit it. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Just interested. The un-greasable joints are greased at the manufactures?, though not sealed for life, as such?. Dave

I understand the Mk1 manifold is not a great design as gasket sealing goes and this is compounded by new gaskets not being so good. I have seen old threads on this problem and folk considering using 2 gaskets, though no more info on this. PS. Apologies if this info has given you, yet another headache, but thought it worth mentioning?. Hopefully others may have more conclusive info on this. Dave

My rockers weren't getting much oil, mainly 123456, even though my oil pressure was reading healthy. I stripped it down, expecting gunge/blockage in shaft/rocker holes. It was pretty clean, though the shaft had worn heavily at front of engine, going less so to rear. This meant the small scroll oil channels that are inline with the exit oil holes in shaft, in the rocker areas were non existent. New shaft and oil was coming out of the rockers. I should check it, as now 2 years down the line, as the new shafts have a poor reputation. I think some folk view it as a replacement service item. On second thoughts, the rockers weren't noisy and no quieter with new shaft. Maybe I could have reground the scrolls on old shaft with a dremel small disk and got the same result?. Dave

Thanks folks. Nope, haven't got an impact wrench (it's on my "ideal" list, though maybe it should be on the"must have"?). Haven't got an old fan belt either, though may try rope?. Dave

Hi. My nut is quite rusted onto shaft. Will try pent fluid and maybe some heat, though is there also a way of locking the shaft, without damaging pulley or fan. Failing that, I can cut the nut off, though is it a common size thread to replace it. Cheers, Dave

And if it's a new repro?, it could be crap?. Dave

Hi Pete. I could well be wrong, though there does appear to be a slight ridge/lip at the bottom, (around where the inner edge of the outer bearing sits if my memory serves me). Maybe not the case as you say, as I assume also, this would have worn through any surface hardening and this maybe visible/wearing quickly?. Dave

I think the brushes can be replaced in the Lucas ones, if that's the issue. Dave

I have always had more play top to bottom. The stub axle appears to have more wear at the bottom in the bearing area (more bearing load on this bit maybe?). Could yours be this?. Dave

Can you explain that please, as Iv'e no idea.

Thanks Paul. Have a torch already, though always appreciate your buying tips. In fact, I think there should be more of this (and general tips on alternative parts/repair solutions) on forum. I try to do this myself. Keep up the good work. Dave

Hi Pete. Is that motoring, or monitoring?.

Thanks folks. I have an apparently recon dynamo, that I picked up for a cheapish price. Will fit that and see how it goes. If ok, then dismantle the old one to see what's, what. If there is an ignition light on at engine rest and idle, does that infer the cut out contacts are not staying closed and therefore working at some level?. Dave

Thanks Johny. It has the charging issue, since I bought the car five years ago (disgraceful Iv'e only just got around to it, I know!), so maybe no burnt smell anymore?. Dave

Hi. I have hopefully diagnosed this as the dynamo, as with a connecting wire between the 2 dynamo terminals give rapidly fluctuating readings of between 4 and 6 volts. Apparently these readings point to the armature being damaged, maybe by the control box cut out contacts not opening and battery charge going into the armature. My ignition light is on at rest and with the engine idling, so maybe I can assume the cut out is currently working?, before I replace the dynamo. Anything else I should look out for in control box?. Thanks, Dave

Hi Tanky. Usually at least a few issues to work through when you buy a "classic". Good luck. Regarding seals. If buying new, would this be more like, impossible?. Dave

Hi. Glad your sorted. Out of interest, can a spring be reformed (regarding maybe straightening, or forming a 90 degree for example). Did you anneal it first?. Dave

I assume that's severe oil burning, causing that amount of carbon?. If the bore stuff is ok. What areas of the head were causing that, do you know? and did it burn a lot of oil?. Dave

Yes. Use to use lolly sticks

Off the top of my head, I think Gt6/Vit calipers are, 16P and 16 PB imperial, then the later caliper metric, though can't remember the reference. Rimmers site is good for ID ing parts to different models. Dave

When I got my Vit, the vinyl had worn/torn, where seat had pushed hard past the A post. The seat bracket bolts were not positioned so the seat would move inwards when tilted. Fitted correctly and the seats still snag a bit on A post, though quite handy, as with Johny. Dave

I guess pushing the choke lever back in will return it (and some spring return of the one carb which has the spring will keep it off), so car usable?, If you need to get it going before you get one. Dave

Hi. It does make me wonder, if it's best to use to the good old fashioned points?. After I changed back to them (after suspect E/I), they have been fine for me, and no diff in running that I can tel. seem very realable as well. Maybe if you have a worn dizzy shaft , etc, or into proper racing it can make a difference?. Dave