daverclasper

Are they for soldering Pete?. If so, go easy with the amount of solder I guess. Thanks, Dave

I use it on these areas as well. Quite simple to brush on (from a tin) and not messy this way Iv'e found.

One more question (hopefully). If the steel segments on the main body of armature have surface rust, is it worth cleaning this up, or is it the depth of steel that does the job?. Thanks, Dave

Thanks Iain. Will do. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Any reason why I can't fit the shorter/less output C40 dynamo (kindly donated by Paula (remember her), who had it on her Vit 6, with a RB106/2 control box ) for the time being, with a suitable spacer, or would this do something drastic to my RB 340 Vitesse control box, or any other issues (apart from less charge). I guess the C40L was fitted to Vit/GT6 due to more ignition demand/D Type solonoid demand?, or other reasons?. Cheers, Dave

That's why I wondered if Hylamar could work without running/seeping. I guess the end of exhaust still hotter than than the engine areas it's used for. As an aside. I fitted a new petrol tap in boot, that had threaded hose stubs. These were leaking. Phoned Hylamar and they said they had done some tests on petrol fittings and had worked, though couldn't guarantee it. Sorted it out, though fuel not under pressure before pump and will have to see how it is long term. Thanks for you help. Dave

Do you think this product would be good for getting more life out of screen/window rubbers?. Mine are a bit shot. Thanks, Dave

Hadn't driven a auto for yonks, until few years ago when I borrowed one of mate. Couldn't get drive. Had to phone him up. Felt a bit of a lemon.

I guess were not all coming from the same place.

So, maybe not too much after all, Am I getting paranoid.

I know. We will become even more like the "bots", ourselves. Maybe?.

The hedgehog effect, is often just very fine particles, which is normal I think.

Also, maybe not good to hold the clutch down, as causes thrust washer wear?, or am I being anal again ? (I even just dip my clutch a tiny bit, when going through the gears). Dave

Potentially a really good buy, that one, I reckon.

Hi. Couple of the clamp joints blowing a little bit, between smaller box and back box. Haven't used cement yet, though was wondering if Blue Hylemar might work, as I have some and could make joints easier to separate in the future. What do you think please?. Thanks, Dave

jobs a good un Colin. Looks really good.

I think from memory, it's fixed to the outer. If so, maybe a bit of loctite near the end section of pin.

Mine keeps on coming out on one side. I guess this is meant to be fixed for life (as I can't see an easy way of removing it, if you wanted to). If so was thinking of using loctite?. Thanks, Dave

Someone mentioned once, that those Records are cast iron, which surprised me. Can the square section, definitely be used as an anvil?. Dave

I've had £15 ones on a 6 cyl for 4 years with no issues

Goodness. Who would thought that (not me anyway). I know there's a lot of crap parts about, but maybe you were unlucky with that batch/manufacture,er?.

Wow. Thanks Iain. Love those, old school, simple, but effective ways. need more of it, I reckon. Dave

Yes. So many of these cars have been messed about with/bodged/different parts/flashed over, nice and shiny, horrors lurking underneath, mech/body etc,etc. Unless it has proper evidence of been a sound car, I would go for something that presents/is, honest (a bit like buying a Victorian house) . Dave

Thanks guys. I did knock up a bracket a while back, for the front part of pipe, that I attached to a bell housing bolt, as apparently they had them fitted from new?. This has no rubber, though I didn't think the original did, as the idea was to make this area rigid between bracket and manifold?. Mine is not the sturdiest and has a bit of flex, I imagine. Will this be ok, or should I remove, do you think?.

Hi. Used a flexi stainless from "Every Exhaust Part Ltd" who also sell on E Bay. Loads of different stuff. £15.00 inc clamps and cement and postage. Arrived next day. Thanks for that tip. Just wondering. The rear bracket, just after back box is currently a thinish strip of rubber, fastened to chassis bracket and the exhaust sways about some, I assume with bumps etc. Was thinking it would be kinder to manifold it I used a solid bracket here, as still has a flexible bracket just before back box, plus the flexi joint just in front of this, so exhaust can absorb engine movement. What do you think?, please. Thanks, Dave