daverclasper

I also find those coffee stirrers, very useful, use them all the time.

Thanks a a lot Guys. Really useful, will go for a connecting piece I reckon. Dave

Hi. Not a great day, went up a high curb today, and ripped off rear half (of stainless) exhaust, which swung out and trapped in the wheel. now got about a 45 degree kink in a connecting pipe and two bent brackets. This section which has a smaller, silencer?, welded to it, looks to be maybe around a ton to buy. Was hoping I could maybe straighten it and remove a likely corresponding dent (with some sort of longish dolly in the pipe, if I can find something?). If this can be done, I guess I would have to heat, to make malleable, hotter than ordinary steel?. I have a Map Gas torch and maybe heat to cherry red?, often?. What do you think and any tips please. Thanks, Dave

Loving this thread. Could the title also include "tips and tricks" (please, please sir). Dave

Hi, Say I wanted to do a bit of welding on a door, that's painted and still attached to car (maybe not a good earth to body through hinges), any tips on earthing the welder, apart from removing an area of paint from the door. Also any earthing tips for other areas of car that are painted. Thanks, Dave

Canley etc, used to do them, for about £7, I think. Dave

Normally quite a few for sale in "Car and Classics", online

I did change, just the boots in the upper ball joints, about 4 and a half years ago, as advisory on MOT. The joints were mainly free of grease and starting to rust, though no play. I regreased with that motor bike chain stuff, in an aerosol, that comes out thin, then thickens. Boots and joints have been ok since. Dave

Hi Paul. Was there any indication that it was rusting, before you removed the underseal?. Thanks, Dave

Never had a modern. Does that include sub frames not treated?.

Thanks Clive, I'm in no hurry. I'm on a right budget with car and have been using waxoil (with a bit of engine oil mixed in which seems to help quite a bit, with it drying out). Go on. What's the slander on it?. Dave

Hi Clive. If that's up for grabs, I'm interested please. How much do you have?, I know others may be interested. I live in Bristol, though can arrange a courier if a collections possible. Thanks, Dave

Good the first got out in time, I hope. Sad. For the second?.

Good one Paul, will maybe use that technique as my boot is catching on one side (though doors are not Gull wing, who knows what folk have done to make thing fit in past 30 years?, so maybe this will mess up my door fit? ). In the last Courier, in the "Bond" section, the guy had used the "push out" from top of B posts. He had angle ground a slit (1mm disc I assume?) at inside, bottom of B posts, each side to give less stress/creak I assume, then welded up the gaps after. Guess this could be done on just one side, if you only want to only move out one side, as this will be more prone to move?. Dave

From memory?, when I replaced shaft on Vit Mk1 2 Litre, it was same scenario as for Colin. Dave

Thanks Richard. I pretty sure it's a charging problem (separate post, just before this one, at the mo). Have read, it's only once to touch the terminal, though will try that. Cheers, Dave

Hi. I have read that this should be done, every time the battery's disconnected (which I do frequently, to give a trickle charge, as battery not charging properly, at the mo). Is this correct, do you know, never heard this before?. Also. is it just a second or so, battery pos, to field terminal, will any longer cause harm?. Also read that, if this done too often, it doesn't work?. Just looking to get the original set up working if I can with my time/free/cheap, before going to the prince of lightness (alternator). Actually, found the genuine Lucas stuff pretty reliable on my car (In 5 years, only electric problems (apart from occasional modern plug and one bulb, original indicator switch) have been nil. Never broke down, apart from 2 modern failed condenser's early on (NOS one since then). Lucky?, or very impressed. Mind you I think the wiring was replaced at some time and appears correct and in good nick and the the connections are maintained to prevent oxidization with AC 50. I'll shut up now, as could start to feel smug and car will prob break down tom, now I've said all that. PS. Maybe don't get distracted, (If I should be so lucky) by all my rambling, as would appreciate any answers about the dynamo, please. Thanks, Dave

Hi Pete. Is that a useful upgrade, do you think?. Dave

I have done my wheel arch areas with Shultz, over sound/painted metal, as is quite resistant to stones, etc flying up. I have found that if applied over even tiny amounts of surface rust, which is quite common practice, it is ok for a while, though when it dries out, it can harbour moisture and can cause rot in the thinner metal areas. A bugger to get off and very messy. I think there are a good number of folk, who won't use it?. Dave

Iv'e also had that (though more like hunting/less extreme) with jets set too rich on Vitesse.

Thanks for that info guys. Just wanted to be certain I couldn't be doing anything wrong, as the tests on old and new unit gave the same readings. Also, I understand the dynamo is the first thing to check for a charging problem. Dave

Especially with that extra Spitfire engine.

Hi. Have fitted the recon dynamo. The voltage, direct from dynamo, is reading similar to the old one. It looks like it has been reconditioned, in that it all looks very clean/new through the back cover, the bearing felt looks new, I think I can see the brushes extending about 10mm from the top of the carriers. The 2 screw heads are a bit mullered, though maybe they use the old ones?. The field coil resistance is 6.3, measured with dynamo fitted. Is this a tad too high to make much difference?. Could I be doing something wrong, when measuring the voltage?. Thanks, Dave

How many speedo's do you need?. Dave

You may be able to narrow it down, if you jack up the front and see how it is unloaded.