daverclasper

Don't leave too long in the sun, if a repro seal. It be knacked. Only half joking. Dave

So long as it's "whatever", that's good enough. Was just wondering if there was a simple reason. Dave

Hi. Always wondered why the softer metal wears less than the harder?. Cheers, Dave

If you have the vernier adjust on dizzy, then for fine adjustment, I have found that as little as 10 clicks (which I understand is only a fraction of a degree), will alter timing from pinking to not (and vice versa). That's on my Vitesse. Dave

Doh. Thinking about it, Stroms are fastened to manifold horizontally, rather than yours (SU's?) which appear vertically fastened?. Dave

Great idea Peter Will look to see if I can do something like it, for the Strom's, on my Vit (have some stuttering on very hot days, slow moving). Looks like the're clamped on top and bottom studs?. If so, could they be clamped on just the bottom ones?. Dave

I've been wondering at bit about that. My hose internal Diameter along the whole run is 1/4", which fit over the metal pipe sections, which are, ext diameter 1/4" / int 5mm. My plastic filter, apparently for 1/4" hose, has only int diameter of only 4mm. Likewise, an inline fuel tap, I've recently fitted in the boot (as an anti theft device), for 1/4" hose, is only 4mm, int diameter. Dave

Cheers Pete. I'm also assuming the nipple is standard. it's the threaded end. A pretty small/narrow blanking grub screw, with for an Allen key on the U/J and a grease nipple on the prop, sliding joint (which I have been able to grease) which has the corresponding narrow thread shank. I want to ideally, buy a couple of the same size nipples to make up an extended nipple, as the grease gun wont get into the U/J. Will phone Canley, as it appears they supplied the prop.They might shed some light?. Dave

Hi. Need rear side window rubbers (or at least the off side) and also rear window rubber in good condition and reasonable price, if anyone can help please. Thanks, Dave

Hi. These look a lot smaller than usual. The shortened prop was fitted, as part of a J Type O/D conversion on Vitesse, around 2003 by Canley. Is this the usual size for generic prop and prop U/J please?. Thanks, Dave

Is that the steady pins. I have seen them so corroded, that they are a lot thinner. Just an idea. Dave

I think one just in front of pump is normally fine (mine never seems to get dirty), though others fit more than one (there may be a question of too many restricting flow?). Dave

Hi. Just out of interest. If an oil light comes on/goes off at around 7 PSI, and a gauge confirms this. Is that an indication that the gauge is likely to be accurate at the higher pressures?. Cheers, Dave

They come up on Ebay fairly often and cheap, though "good condition", might be subjective. Also the ones I've seen, have always been "collection only" as difficult/time consuming to pack safely I imagine. Somewhere like Spit Graveyard may sent them, as always found them dead obliging?.

Did the same with a Stanley spirit level, stopped on a busy one way and dodged cars to get it. It was still straight and the bubbles accurate.

I'm the sort of person (if they have rhem), who pick ups washers, bolts, cable ties etc off the street + hoarding other things I come across (kettles, toasters etc), therefore never have buy much except for food, booze (even then I brew beer and a bit of wine). Whenever I have been nagged to put stuff out and de-clutter (have a front wall system here and everything gets taken, eventually), I swear I find I need it within a few months, it's weird.

Hi. I have always been generous with this (about 1/8" at the tyre) though I have nipped them up a bit more to avoid the usual advisories for MOT and poss fail as using a different tester this time. They now have about 2mm play at the tyre, when rocking on the vertical plane, though can't feel play at the horizontal plane. The stub axles bearings surfaces have always had (since I've owned it) a bit more wear on the bearing surface at the bottom, that may account for this?. Wondering if this is ok to continue running like this, or if best to back them off a bit after MOT. Any opinions on this gratefully appreciated. Thanks, Dave

I think I dodge to compensate for this wear is to elongate the M/C bracket holes and move it forward a bit?. Dave

Bargain of the year. The anodesed bumpers maybe worth that?. Original key?, still in the ignition. There's barn finds, and barn finds

Low mileage 2 owner car, oop Scotland. No link to advert, as don't know how to do that. Dave

Hi. Not as sometimes happens with cam spindle. This is the spindle that holds the vacuum capsule. About 1mm side to side at capsule end and a bit less the vernier wheel end. Also the the spindle will turn about 1mm. Never noticed this before, is this normal do you know please?. (PS. Haven't been worrying about car for a couple of weeks, so thought I'd best find something!) thanks, Dave

A simple way, (though can't remember if the connecting rods to spindles at one carb have to be separated at the UV joint?) to determine if the bodies are worn, is to move the spindle along, to an unworn area of it and check play. Dave

Thanks Johny. Yes. I do that with trunnions and also a crowbar under tyre for up and down play. Was thinking more of ball joints (rack and track rod ends)?. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Wondering the best way for this. Reading up in in my various old school books, it says to check joints with front up and suspension on droop, which I can see as showing wear, as no load on the joints. During past MOT's in various vehicles, I have often sat in, and rocked the steering from side to side, under load with tyres on the ground, which I can also see as a way to show wear. Any info/tips, great please. Thanks, Dave

Thanks for that Gully. Dave