Chris A

I've the same type of hub caps on my 13/60. I remove them with the tool referred to by Trigolf. I have a short piece of hose pipe on it which protects paint. I would post a photo but car & tool are up the road having work done, which happens to be to rear brakes so I removed the hub caps before hand - easier than letting the mechanic try and do it 🙄 Oh, I'm surprised Mr Lindsay didn't point out the difference between a hub cap and nave plate - he must be slipping 😁

Not a period photo of a Triumph but sort of related. The photo was on the French Triumph club site who had borrowed it from a site that posts old advertising paintings on buildings. This one has been restored, see plaque in bottom right hand corner. Apparently it is on a wall by a Belgian industrial site that built Standard Triumph cars. The factory is L'Usine Imperia near Liège, I found an article about it, they built cars from the early 1900s AND had a roof top test circuit - does that ring any bells? The article : https://www.gaudry.be/photo/imperia-usine-abandonnee/#:~:text=L'usine Imperia&text=L'usine fut d'abord,marque Impéria%2C créée en 1901.

Time will tell, early days yet. N.B. My time scale is based on the fact that 'urgent' or 'straight away' aren't in my repertoire & a calendar is used more than the second hand of a watch for timing events. I've been in Normandie so long 😁

My car's system is better than either of those, on each front wing just after the wheel arch is a lever. No electrics no cable, you don't even need to get into the car to operate them. I wonder if the concept will catch on . .😉

Definitely! Except . . . and . . . . . and . . . . . 😁

My 13/60 convertible came with a set fitted plus the steels in the boot. I went back to standard as I prefer the look. Don't rush into changing the wheels, drive the car, look at it and photos of cars with the Minilites then decide. If it is of any help I have Accuspark fitted since 2015 without any problems.

OR - you lend them to others and never see them again 🙄

I know what sites you have been looking at (well some sites at least) as I saw them as well. We need to get out more 🙄

It wouldn't be my first choice either

It might well be NOS, but an item that failed quality control back in the day. A couple of years ago I bought a NOS glove box door for the Herald which was a slight second, tiny bit of contamination below the varnish layer, better than the one it was to replace.

Although I have no problems with the Herald ( that's cursed it) after the winter lay up, although it does get run occasionally, the mower, strimmer & hedge trimmer all cause me grief. I put it down to them becoming damp during storage and move them into the boiler room for a few days before their annual service to dry them out. Maybe next year I'll try putting freshly bought petrol in to see if that makes a difference.

Same here, never had any problems due to stale fuel after a winter lay up and I have used 95 in the past before 'upgrading' to 98.

I've just checked mine, I had the same problem as you a while ago, with the door locked the button sits with the lip flush with the handle and there is about 3mm of slack when you press the button. I have no idea if this is correct but the door locks and opens as it should.

I'm no longer an apprentice but the rest of the statement still applies,except beer has been replaced by wine and/or whisk(e)y. 😉

They'd have used whatever was kicking about at the time . .

I would agree. Looking in close up at some of the photos where there is background text I found a couple the seem to be in Italian and one in German. The top on the Triumph could have been a styling exercise to test reaction I suppose. Add me to the list of interested parties . .

Mine? Not enough. 'Must try harder' New year resolution

And the swear box.

From your description it is the same problem I had on my 13/60. Yes you need to remove the door card. There is a bolt that probably just needs the slack taking up against easy to do. If you look at a parts diagram it is clear. I'm not near my main computer so can't post one at present.

when we bought our first house here, ok building constructed in year 10 ( hence its name L'An Dix) of the French revolution calendar, that had never been connected to electricity, plumbing consisted of 1 cold tap sticking out of the wall etc. We met up with our chosen builder to go through the work to be done and had so many problems with the terms and techniques he went off to his merchant and came back with a mass of leaflets for us to study . . . 'O' level French didn't cover the building trade back then 🙄

Much more straight forward here - we don't do them 😁 There is the standard protection for a buyer against hidden faults you can't see as you go round. 'Vice caché'. Any major work carried out by a professional legally has a 10 year guarantee. The first time we bought here on the day we signed the initial contract the agent got his calendar out counted 3 months and said the sale would be completed that week, he apologise he couldn't be more precise. Yes, he was right and it held true for the sale of that house & purchase of this one. It also worked for the house my wife bought as a workshop and again for its sale. Oh, something you will like - once both parties have agreed should either pull out they have to pay 10% of the price in compensation. Both parties can put clauses into the contract to cover eventualities such as not getting a loan. For us we stipulated that both of us should be alive and for the purchase of this house that the other was sold within a period of 6 months, the seller had to accept that. It turned out not to be a problem as we sold in less than 1 week. . . Ca, c'est la vie en rose! Oh, there are surveys for lead, energy efficiency and electrical conformity - forgot about those, but everyone just shrugs and files them 🙄

I've left the fridge door open to let the warmer air out 🙄

I noticed the same thing with mine

I was certain it would

Most of us spotted them but didn't want to give away the location of your reserve stocks