trigolf

Oh yes! Hopefully the job will see me out, before revisiting! I've Tippex marked the Jub clips relative posns etc. I think it comes back to ' just. because the shaft balances on the balancer does not necessarily mean it'll run true when fitted to the car'

Having ruled out all other causes of vibration at 50+mph( wheels,diff mounts,gbox mounts, driveshafts etc), I bought a new prop for my OD Vit last year from Bailey Morris. Cost £300.00.😟 Looked like a nice job, but when fitted I noticed a small amount of play in the sIiding joint and still had vibration! So back it went for a rebalance. They also replaced the sliding jt . Fitted prop again, still had vibration! 😡I ended up taking the car to Vibration Free Services in Bicester. They put it on the ramp and ran her up. After a lot of testing,they measured 28 microns out of balance at the diff end, IIRC. They did'nt want to disturb the welded weight already on the prop, so eventually fitted 2 jubilee clips and that figure came down to 3 microns. This process took about 3 hours of test, adjust weight posn and orientation,measure again + a couple of road tests. Car now drives fine. I've never really understood why some Vits seemingly don't suffer from prop vibration at all, and others do. Are convertibles more prone? Are Mk2's ( mine) more prone? Does the extra weight of roto wishbone, and cast v links increase the likelyhood?

Years ago I replaced the horrible strap drive prop on my 1360 for a solid prop extracted from a 1200 in a scrapyard. It got rid of the horrible vibrations.

Fastest lorry in the world- according to Bugatti, IRC ! 😄

Mock scuffs in paint quite clever at a distance. Imagine the mess it would be, if it were real, with an aluminium body😭😟

Yes,as I recall, Richard could talk for England😄

That reg looks vaugely familiar. I bought my one previous owner H reg Vit from a guy who promptly replaced it with a slightly younger J reg one! It might even be that one?

Yep. Have to agree, it looks very Hillman like.

Unfortunately made of unobtanium - unless you're very lucky! 🤔

Gary, 'It's time to pee or get off the pot ! ' - as my Dad used to say at times of indecision🙂

Am I right in thinking that ( years ago) some engine specialist could reclaim dropped thrust washer block damage by machining the block crank face and fixing( pins?) an extra thrust washer to the block face?

Hmm... I suspect you might now be looking for a Vitesse Unicorn!🤔 I 'm wondering if you now regret selling your previous Vit, which looked immaculate.

If all else fails you could contact Cast Iron Welding Services, who specialise in classic car cast iron cylinder head repairs etc. I've not used them, but they seem to have a good reputation. Might be pricey, but if you're stuck...

Try Canley Classics or Spitfire Graveyard for a s/h one.

You could try Canley Classics or Spitfire Graveyard for a s/h one. Can't think there would be any NOS left now.

I hope you're going to clean that engine bay before you put the lump back Ian. Looks fithy .....ahem! Gav

Having been caught in biblical rain back in September, on a 90 mile journey home, I was very impressed and relieved with the grip levels of the Uniroyal Rainmasters fitted to my Vit, as I don't normally drive her routinely in very poor weather nowadays.

Nice job Ian! 👍 Gav

If it's brush painted DIY underseal, try a rag soaked in white spirit ( the trad stuff, not the modern rubbish). If its hard, a hot air gun and and paint scraper might be needed to chip it off. Gav

Paul, this is what I bought recently, from Euro Car Parts. It's a compact filter ( Herald size),which fits my spin on adaptor location easily. It's listed for Alfa 164 3.0 1994 I think. Second pic shows Euro C part number. It has an anti-drain flap.

Hmm... If it was me, I would resist the temptation to replace some or all original bars with copper bus bar, although a good idea. I would just do as John suggests and 'clean' the connections and coat with conductive grease. If the car was involved in an insurance claim it's likely they would spot the unofficial mod and refuse to repair?

Hi Danny. Swapping from carbs to EFI seems a bit "sledgehammer to crack a nut" solution to me. The car was designed to run on Stromberg CD 150's and there are plenty of people still running their GT6 or Vitesse on them, with very few persistent running issues. If it was me, I would stick with the carbs and plod on, trying to eliminate one component at a time, rather than swap lots of things at the same time,as it muddies the water.

So, are you implying that the "Heron by the Ford" does not serve meals of high enough stodge (calorific) levels to enable you to remove a siezed Mk 2 cylinder head?!😜

No shims ever fitted on rear of my Mk2 Vit either. It has offset radius arms too. Many years ago I had the rear tracking set up by a knowledgeble local tyre fitter using the adjusters on the radius arms.

The arguments about grease or oil for trunnions rage on. But Triumph specified EP90 GL4 Oil, so I've always used same. Pumping the oil in should force the grease out eventually. Taking the weight off the wheels helps to force it in. If it was me, I would get the grease out.