trigolf

Hi Danny. Swapping from carbs to EFI seems a bit "sledgehammer to crack a nut" solution to me. The car was designed to run on Stromberg CD 150's and there are plenty of people still running their GT6 or Vitesse on them, with very few persistent running issues. If it was me, I would stick with the carbs and plod on, trying to eliminate one component at a time, rather than swap lots of things at the same time,as it muddies the water.

So, are you implying that the "Heron by the Ford" does not serve meals of high enough stodge (calorific) levels to enable you to remove a siezed Mk 2 cylinder head?!😜

No shims ever fitted on rear of my Mk2 Vit either. It has offset radius arms too. Many years ago I had the rear tracking set up by a knowledgeble local tyre fitter using the adjusters on the radius arms.

The arguments about grease or oil for trunnions rage on. But Triumph specified EP90 GL4 Oil, so I've always used same. Pumping the oil in should force the grease out eventually. Taking the weight off the wheels helps to force it in. If it was me, I would get the grease out.

I've had a Newtronic ' Pihrana' optical igntion system fitted to my Vit for 15+ yrs now and it's always been 100% reliable. So I wouldn't condemn it yet until further checks have been carried out on the ignition system.

Straightsix, Assuming you were not part way through refitting the brake linings in your pic, I see that the top red pull off spring is fitted the opposite way round to the pic in the WSM. Also the bottom pull off spring is not located properly in the outer holes As to stiff rotation, I would support the driveshaft under the v link as in your pic then undo the inner lobro joint to diff flange and ease flange faces apart and see if drag is still there. If it is ( with drum off) then the bearings are suspect or end float incorrect (too tight). Spec is 0.5 to 2.5 thou.

Well, it might have as much charisma as a toaster, but at least it's not another hugely bloated chelsea tractor...🤔

I have two s/h, but serviceable, Lucas sealed beam lights removed from a Herald. Free to a good home. I'm in Christchurch( Dorset). Gav

Many years ago we used to use Letraset for labels, but I always found that that you'd get individual letters wonky - even with a reference line to follow. Very annoying!

Hi Ian, do you know anyone with a Dymo Label printer? I'm not talking about the original 60's embossed label machine. We had one at work for labelling small electronic projects. The label cartridges come in different widths and colours ( white on black, white on clear etc). The font is changeable as is character size. If you're really stuck, I might be able to borrow it. Gav

It would be interesting to know if there have been any failures of CDD's Rotoflex replacement CV shafts and how said driveshaft failed (snapping,shearing or other failure)? Out of curiosity, a while ago, I Googled the part number on the outer CV joint on my Vit MK 2 CDD CV shafts. It appears to be the same as a mk 3 Escort (FWD). The reported failures mentioned all seem to be to be with non- roto shafts, apart from the one Stag failure mentioned,which is non roto of course.

Ahh, now you'll start a debate about whether the grease get's anywhere usefull Ian!!🤔🙂

Have you tried slackening the nut on the long bolt (that goes through both outer bushes on the wishbone) and making sure that the bolt will actually turn in the bushes? They can sieze in the bush which can cause creaking. I slacken the bolt once in a while and check it turns, before re-torqueing.

I think at that price, I'll stick with rubber hoses....🤔

Colin, I think you are correct! 🙂

I totally agree! Along with the manicured nails and eyebrows,don't forget all the tatoos, that are not cheap nowadays...

My heater worked ok in terms of heat output, when needed recently, but the demister was useless, just when I really wanted it in pouring rain! Checking it later, I found several very small splits in the demister plastic pipes. Easily fixed with some insulation tape.

I'm sure I read somewhere recently that the Thames barrier will need modifying/improving to cope with global warming flood levels...😕

Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic EM121 paint gets very good reviews with Practical Classics mag. On that basis I've bought some - not had time to apply yet.

That is exactly the method I use, which works. I had also previously cleaned the piston, but it still jammed. It's a bit labourious tightening each screw a micron at a time, but heh ho. I often wondered if the top cover flange has been over-tightend in the past by PO and the flange is slightly distorted?

Puglet I don't mean to throw a spanner in the works. It's your choice at the end of the day! If you decide to go for bracket option, I seem to recall not only loosening the top chassis mount bolts (x)2 in the boot, but also the boot outrigger bolts( x 4). I then used a standard Herald scissor jack placed on top of the leaf spring to gently ease the floor up enough to wriggle the brackets in ( a bit Heath Robinson, but it worked,refer to StraightSixs pic in Shocked and Surprised). Of course other peeps might have a different method!

Back before I decided to convert to tele shockers(30+yrs) ,I initially replaced the original lever arm shocks, which were knackered, with a reconditioned pair from a local motor factors. Obviously they were'nt 'reconditioned' to a good standard as they started leaking from the arm seals within a year. So I was'nt very impressed!

To confirm, yes you can leave the brackets in situ AND still use the original chassis top mount. The brackets will probably be a pig to remove now anyway, as they are almost an interference fit between floor and chassis mount.

True. Have to say the Koni's I fitted have never been adjusted from factory setting ( you need to remove them to adjust) and I'm happy with the ride.

The front edge of the roof looks different too - the lip seems to be missing...