Peter Truman

Same as Steve's, the daughters Mk2 Spit has had a cheap PRC full width aluminum rad fitted for 20 years it cost $100, there still sold locally here in Melb by the same company for $175 incl rad cap and free postage. The only weak point I can see is the inlet and outlet pipework there relatively thin and easily damaged so don't overtighten, the rad inlet pipe is made from two sections mitered and welded together so looks a bit untidy, but hey after 20 years obviously fit for purpose. To recore an original brass/copper Rad will cost well over $400, I keep an old one just in CASE! but it's a no brainer I'd replace with a cheap PRC Ally when the time comes! A local and obviously better made ally rad by a specialist rally rad Co for the Vitesse would cost me well over $800,

Speeders!

Also be aware the chrome rose nut that holds the choke push/pull to the dash come in different sizes ie OD and dependent on the switch/push/pull control they have different threads too. I recently built up a Spit Mk2 Heater Valve push pull/on off control using an old Triumph Choke control with detachable knob, it reqd the new aftermarket generic choke cable outer sheath and inner cable to be soldered into the respective parts of the Triumph push pull assemblies. I also had to change the sign in the knob from a choke to heater matrix, this only requires the plastic lens to be prized out of the knob and the thin alloy pic disc to be changed then reassembled. Daughters very happy BUT when in Aus is she going to use the heater esp when she lives up the coast near NSW!!! I do as I'm told!

Without stealing Iain's thread has anyone tried a concentric clutch slave cylinder as used extensively on modern's, reason for asking is I have an 1850 Dolly single rail gearbox with J Type OD, and major surgery is reqd to the Vitesse/GT6 bellhousing to accommodate the single rail selector and hence the clutch pivot pin and operating lever has to be mangled too. By using a concentric clutch all I'd have to do is make an oil tight boss for the single rail selector where it protrudes thro the front of the gearbox case, as no pivot pin or operating lever is reqd. Would a concentric clutch slave help in Iain's setup/issues?

I had a misfire issue with my Dolly Sprint with all the HT leads when I got it 8 years ago I purchased a set of new HT leads with the proper long plug caps ex UK they were graphite/carbon filled & fitted in the small 7mm dizzy cap side entry holes. I just unscrewed the tapered screws holding the old leads in the cap and replaced the new leads screwing the tapered screws thro the cable and carbon/graphite filling. all was OK for a couple of drives then the misfire started, upon stripping the dizzy cap down I eventually noticed burning where the tapered screw went thro the cable, this investigation unfortunately took a couple of weeks of pulling my hair out! After determining the cause I pushed a thin strip of brass up the inner carbon core and bent it back over the outside of the cable, pushed that up the dizzy cap holes and used a flat ended screw to clamp the cable into the cap no penetration of the cable, it required fine alignment of the brass strip and screw. No more misfires and still good many years after. An old hand was looking at the arrangement and advised me to hold the graphite cables as if they flapped around the core could break causing a misfire so obviously I made HT cable clips to stop any excessive movement.

It's my spare set of Vitesse keys complete with an aftermarket brass ignition key with the Triumph (Standard) shield as the main part. I keep the broken on that set so their easily found out of the 3 Triumph model sets of keys& spares I keep on my bookcase. I agree I think it was broken on first run in 68 there are radial scores on one side and no rubbing/wear marks on either surface, as said previously I think the Rotaflex drive feeling any effects.

Pete here's a pic of my Vitesse's brass inner spherical Planet Gear Thrust Washer after a diff case strip & clean up. There was no apparent diff noise and the Rotaflex's hid any slack, it looks as if it failed very early in the cars life, I replaced it with similar thickness domed washer from a Diff Rebuilder where it came from an Aussie Holden, I hope it hasn't subsequently sheared like the original. Did I find the other half of the original thrust washer No not even bits of it?

What an ugly looking thing, and looks like f/glass so won't even rust in peace!

We live in a smallish estate surrounded on 3 sides by a golf course, so when we were younger and all had kids we all knew each other very well. One wife/mother Jill a local beauty rang me asking for help with her broken down cloths drier, being an engineer I was Mr Fixit, so I went over and after stripping the drier down and removing a broken coiled nitride heater wire I couldn't work out what appeared to be a bi-metallic semi circular strip welded onto one end of the nitride wire there was no end connection point, so off I go to the Hoover service depot where the chap behind the desk asks how near the end was the wire break I said about an inch he advised just reconnect it it'll work and not overheat, I asked what does this bi-metallic strip connect to, his answer one word BRA, I responded what BAR, he dead faced replied it's the underwire from a bra, I left red faced!! I went home picked the wife up went over to Jill's asked her to jump up and down, they both looked at me dumbfounded I responded I just want to see if a missing Bra underwire makes any difference? obviously laughter all round, and I dined out at many BBQ's on that one!

Bakers Fluid still available at Bunnings here and electronic's shops See my attempt to solder the plastic lid, had to happen!

We had a3lt Jaguar X Type for 18 years several times over that period at around 5 year intervals it used to loose some from the plastic header tank each time it was the plastic header tank splitting on the underside a new header tank cured it for another 5 years the first time it took quite a while to find the leak as there was no sign of fluid It wasn’t much leakage just enough to make you think it ain’t right

I think nowadays the multi stranded inner Bowden cable are stainless so cannot be soldered but somewhere/someone told me to superglue the cable where you cut it to stop it fraying. Haven't tried it myself

Here are my Mk2 Vitesse Master's with Girlock Extensions, and a pic of my daughters Mk2 Spitfire with I assume standard style Master's all have been modified with S/S sleeves. Interestingly I've just noticed on the Spit the brake master is shorter in height than the clutch, maybe the clutch slave is larger requiring more volume? I'm in the process of converting the Spit from Type 12 to Type 14 Calipers so will have to upgrade the brake master cylinder I have a spare large volume (PBR now Bosch here) Vitesse type so I took it to my local brake service guy who S/S sleeved all the other masters he's saying that the S/S sleeve could be over $200, I can buy the NOS aftermarket Spit Mk3 plastic reservoir type for $130?? Didn't expect that would like the S/S sleeve for longlevity but not at that cost! Anyway I'll still have the larger Vitesse Brake Master as a spare to sleeve if needed in the future. Next issue. will the new larger Spit Brake Master clear the windscreen wiper rack?

Interesting all the actual B post covers I've seen in photo's and for sale are like yours ie 2 pieces, but the early Herald Conv rear tub I have here in Aus there a one piece! So are there two variations early and later models OR is it Aust specific ie made locally by AMI for the CKD models where 20% of the car had to be made locally to reduce tax/import duty? Here's a photo of my 1962 Herald Conv rear tub B post covers

Here's my bespoke Trunnion Oiler the oil can has a brass pump in it not plastic. I strip the trunnion's down remove all grease, put new rubber top covers on & soldered the steel/brass washer in the bottom of the trunnion to avoid them leaking, ie it keeps a reservoir of oil in the trunnion.

As a kid I remember a box of restrictor’s ie snubbers in our home workshop from the instrumentation in petro chemical plants and steel plants that dads company used to build here. brass female and male threaded ends with a small hole in a disc. They we’re to damper out any surges so the gauge didn’t bounce about. The instrument boys at our water board used to just kink/flatten the pipe to the pressure gauges, also used oil damped gauges.

sounds right, an old hand warned me about the inner seal eons ago and I never forgot his advice

Iain last week I lost a 1/2in washer couldn’t find it anywhere even using a PL magnet eventually found it Friday I my working shoe obviously slipped down the side only then because it had moved to a place inside that hurt my foot! Should this be in blonde moments

Good job we don’t wear trousers with turn up hems any more

Didn’t drop the screws this time but I did loose the newly purchased O ring pick and couldn’t find it for around 5 min not under the car or slid under the engine/steering rack or behind the starter, it was outside the engine bay near vertical in the suspension neat hide and seek trick.

I hadn't started my Vitesse for nearly 2 months having worked on the Spitfire, sold the Sprint and spent time up at my daughters after she moved some 300klm north. Anyway turned the elect fuel pump off, ran the starter to prime the oil up, switched the pump on to let the pump push fuel thro, pulled the choke out and almost immediately she started and idled well on the choke, then I got out to check things and the front carb was spewing fuel out I mean pouring it out turned everything off, played silly bug**rs and got the fuel bowl off, removed the float and needle valve pushed the needle up and it was very sticky, didn't just drop ! Realised that the needle valve was gummed up from the stale unleaded 5% ethanol 98 fuel I use, cleaned it out with Carby Clean & the needle moved freely, replaced the jet O ring as a precaution that was easy after buying an O ring pick tool, reinstalled the Stromy Fuel Bowl those 6 screws are a pain fitting upside down even with Allen heads, started the car & then the fuel hose to the same front carby leaked so replaced the 3 short hoses at both carbies and their inlet pipework, restarted again and no leaks finally. As a precaution after warming the engine up and then turning it off I removed the carby's inlet rubber hoses and sprayed Carby Clean down the two Carby inlet pipes to flush any old fuel out of inlet needle valves, damned modern fuels and gumming up! If it happens again before I remove the fuel bowl I'll just remove the inlet hoses and spray Carby Clean in the carb inlet pipe reckon that'll free the needle valve up!!

I've been a club member for around 20 years, but living in Australia I don't get to avail myself of club meetings or events been to the club offices twice and Stafford once whilst on holidays. Membership gives me a fantastic magazine the "Courier" and access to 40 years of very comprehensive Courier Technical Articles with a great index, as well as a great Forum supported by all Triumph enthusiasts. My TSSC membership is a lot more expensive than my local Aus club fees, but I don't begrudge them as it supports the continuation of the marque and my love of Triumphs and thro the Forum I get to communicate with like minded enthusiasts/friends, both members and non members, who definitely have great input and I hope they continue. I'm a non-financial member of the Triumph Experience Forum from memory this limits the number and size of photo's that I can upload and see, that's my choice & I accept it!

Parcel_Shelf_Information.docDon't know if these help they are for USA LHD models, don't know if there just mirror imaged? I made mine the bottoms thin plywood with light timber 1/4in wide 1in high upright flanges back and sides, with the shelf sides and back from new millboard screwed into the base upright flanges. Easy to remove by unscrewing and no distorting the millboard to pull out, also the fuse box flasher can and wiring is easy to access. On the drivers side in the new plywood shelf base I've cut a rectangular hole and mounted the radio at an angle so the front is above the shelf (can be seen to access knobs) and the back below the carpet overlay hides the radio top, hence the shelf can still be used to store soft things. Spitfire_PS_Back_T.pdf Spitfire_PS_Bottom-Back_T.pdf Spitfire_PS_Left_T.pdf Spitfire_PS_Left_T.pdf Spitfire_PS_Right_T.pdf

Very ingenious construction ref emergency 4 way flashers I’ve fitted the old style Lucas push/pull switch style to both my Mk2 Vitesse and the daughters Mk2 Spitfire dead easy just replace the single bullet connectors as they indicator wires come out of the steering column with dual and push the emergency wiring connectors into them you have to find a live battery wire to power the flashers even when the ignition is off It took me about 3 hours to install and rewire

Any pic’s of the rig esp Herald pick up