Peter Truman

Pete my felt seal is as you state and whilst newish I soaked them in oil for a few days then compressed them hard with a press for a further 4 days then greased the surface and installed so I’m relatively happy with the seals fitting. The one with the disc hub is OK just a little off centre but acceptable. The issue re packing needed is the drum hub which isn’t as deep as the disk hub, 3 mm shorter so looks like I try and get another hub (disk) or make a shim spacer.

I have as spares fully rebuilt LH and RH Herald front suspension uprights that have Drum to Disc adapter brackets, I have one drum front hub that has been machined at the wheel flange underside to clear the caliper, the other hub is for a Herald early Spit disc set up. Putting Type 14 calipers on the disc hub set up has the disc/rotar running just off centre in the caliper channel/groove a 1mm spacer between the disc mounting flange and the hub rear mounting face is reqd to make it dead equally spaced in the caliper, whereas the drum hub would require a 3mm spacer (drum hub is not as deep as the disc hub, approx 41mm to 38mm). Question did Triumph make various thickness spacers for the disc rotar to rear hub mounting to get the disc to run dead centre in the caliper groove. Attached I've included a rough cardboard version of what I think the spacer might look like, I could use washers under each of the 4 disc to hub mounting bolts to achieve the correct spacing but it sounds a bit hillbilly, and unprofessional for something as important as brakes. I can get individual 1mm and 3mm steel spacer shims as photo made up relatively easy, but was wondering if Stanpart items are available.

Pete So t's a must have! for us oldens, there again its just more to clean when you finally remove the filter and that warm black stuff drains everywhere. Ref the bolt at the back it would be very good for priming the system after an oil change, something that was VERY problematic for one member.

I have extended a pipe up into the tank so the draw off level is the same as the reserve level to avoid drawing any debris off.

Bob a friend had a similar fuel problem the electric fuel pump on his Stag wasn't performing, bigger replacement fixed it, well he did have a Leyland 4.4ltr in there!

When I rebuilt my daughters Spit Mk2 engine around 18 years ago (need a refresh) it had that horrible leak at the rear N/.S of the head to block ie the rocker oil feed. I was bu**gered if I was going to remove the head to fix this little dribble so I made a nappie that fitted over the top of the bell housing to block joint area, which I regularly replaced/cleaned, here is our then club magazine editors response when he saw it, think you'll find it amusing.

I sometimes custom make the pop rivet if it’s to long, tap the rivet off the stem/nail saw to required length ie the of material plus a little protrusion (say 1/8in) quick file of the cut end put the rivet back on the stem the right way and fit in hole and pull up, all nice and tidy

Won't bother buying one then, usual price for a 2 Row Spit Alloy here appears to be around $150 to $180. I paid around $100 around 15 years ago for a Spit Mk2 Alloy Rad locally sourced,

Get well soon

I've seen this Spit 1500 Oil Filter Adapter advertised on ebay frequently tho' I think USA predominately. What's it purpose and why was a remote adapter reqd over the straight screw into the block filter that's the normal arrangement. Was it to do with LHD and the steering shaft alignment and clearance going thro the turrent. I'm just curious?

How can you beat this at $59Aus with free local delivery, for a Spit 1500, a 3 row Aluminum radiator. Even if the weld looks a little heavy, you can can afford to replace at 5yr intervals

plus pump to use more of that precious battery power/storage, always thought they should be converting that heat into energy, Ha!

nice aspect Colin, pity to drop oil onto it!! You obviously have enough wheels (incl trailers) to keep you very busy! Like you and Matthew I have enough spare parts to mech rebuild a herald or spitfire, spares mostly on 7mts long by 2.2mts high 5 shelf industrial shelving around the biggish double garage walls, a full front suspension set up both sides incl turrents and brakes, plus rear drive axles, hubs and vertical links, spare engines 1500, and 2 lt, spare g/box's Dolly 1850 for Vitesse, and a 1500 with J Type, spare 4:11 diff rebuilt, herald/Vitesse rear wings, Spitfire rads, NOS Herald steering rack, rebuilt steering column incl new indicator & headlight switch's, plus grey steering wheel, box's of new suspension and steering parts, box's of new wheel bearings for Herald/Spit and Vitesse, Herald/Vitesse NOS Stanpart front outriggers, home made Spit front outriggers, spare Spit GT6 chassis, various prop shafts, I could make a bitsa Spit/GT6 rolling chassis!! Oh I also have a spare complete Sprint engine, must rebuild it in case!! daughter would love to put a Sprint engine in the Spit, not going there to much mod reqd. In case I fall off the perch all parts have tags or titles on the box's explaining what there for and their state of reconditioning, so the daughter (Spit Mk2) can sort out what she wants to keep or get rid of, sons not interested. I now have a little spare shelf space having given away all my Jag X Type spares to a Jag fanatic for use by that club. Now what can I buy!!

Snap, did the same on my Vitesse around 1973

Attached is an email between me and a friend who is responsible for the AOMC (Assoc of Motoring Clubs, here in Victoria) keeping of Registration Records of Pre 84 Victorian Registration Records, an old card system, the AOMC do paid search's of Vic Registered vehicles for historical and legal confirmation of previous registrations to enable re-reg of old vehicles. The search's are important on some specialized models like the Ford GTHO Falcons and AU Torana's which are worth nearly up to $1M, and if you review the enquiries there appears to be more claims to fame than original models produced! Can anyone answer Phils query re how to search for the number of rare vehicles that currently exist in the UK ie Registered or I believe Sorn'd Thanking you in advance Regards Peter T 70692

The proposal of a tee in the outlet pipe will let you drain the tank or divert fuel for other uses, but if you want to isolate the tank to work on the outlet to pump hoses without draining the tank an in line valve plumbed into the tank outlet fixture would be reqd, the TR6 looks similar to the early Spits ie fuel is drawn from the bottom of the tank with a compression olive and pipe nut locating and sealing a short length of steel/copper pipe which protrudes into the tank to avoid drawing crud off the bottom of the tank. In the case of the daughters Mk2 Spit I replaced this arrangement with an in line valve with a male screwed end incorporating a compression olive with a short length of copper pipe to extend into the tank was screwed into the tank base female threaded fitting, the tank and its contents can now be isolated permitting the easy replacement of any in line hoses and fuel pump pipework. I was lucky I had access to a selection of process control valves (all best quality) with all sorts of end fittings, plus in line, right angled and even a 3 way valves, I chose the right angled valve to minimize the length of the arrangement and located the outlet in the direction I wanted. The valve ends had the same olive/pipe nut fitting as the original set up so it screwed directly into the tanks existing fitting compressing the olive onto a short length of pipe, can't remember what the tank base fitting thread was it was 20 years ago and I had access to our organisations substantial Fixed Plant Maintenance crew and stock. If I want to drain the tank I simply shut the valve, disconnect the rubber joiner in the outlet piping and connect a length of hose to waste/container and open valve, then have a coffee and wait. The Vitesse I have also modified to draw fuel from the tank bottom rather than sucking from the top, here I removed the drain plug that goes thro the boot floor and put in similar process control fittings, valve and extended pipe into the tank to the same location of the existing pipe depth, this enables the tank tp be isolated and the delivery pipework to the pump is always charged/drowned so the pump can easily suck via gravity not by syphon through the tank top.

I think there are 2 lengths of the clear plastic horn biro available you need to ensure you get the right one

Not having a good day inserted the tables into the Spotted section so I've deleted it and will start again, Bu**er! Please let me know if there's any errors, & I must revisit and work out the best speedo gear for a Spit 1500 engine and single rail 1500 gearbox gears (fitted into a 3 rail case) with a J Type Overdrive mated into a Spit Mk2 with a std 4:11 diff, and speedo head. Peter T

Your making me feel guilty and I should get that old copper Spit rad I have in the garage recored just in case and whilst there's still experts to do it!

For what it is worth an analysis I did a while ago trying to determine what speedo drive (No of teeth) to fit with Spit 1500 single rail internals into a 3 rail box with J type O/D with a std 4:11 diff. Oops how do I upload a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet?

Colin your building up enough spares to build another Herald!

Colin how is your one damaged if its just seized pistons try the grease gun trick, I've just done it on a set of Type14's, & it worked a treat, my usual 100psi compressed air didn't work. I had to make up a bleed nipple (top broken off) with a grease nipple end attached (threaded in). Once the pistons are out usually any caliper piston bore damage/rust can be sorted, and new pistons and the full car caliper seal kits can be purchased for around 33quid UK (biggred4u). I'm just in the process of doing it for the daughter's Mk2 Spit upgraded brakes, but I'm having to use early Escort/Cortina Type 14's due to non availability of Triumph bits here in Aus & the 2nd hand units I purchased off UK ebay were scrapped by the UK shipper as dangerous items, Thankfully I was fully refunded & seller was paid to. It looks like the Escort Type 14's will need a little fettling to get the rotar to run central in the caliper, it requires either shim the rotar off the hub or machine/file a little off the inside boss on the caliper mounting, won't affect the caliper mounting strength, hey it keeps you busy in lock down's. At least dong it yourself you know the quality of the workmanship!

Should be a Mayflower around the south somewhere as my mate last year shipped one back to his brother in law from here in Melbourne.It was another deceased members car and was very tidy except the wood dash was a little bleached. Interesting before shipping we had to rebuild and refit both the engine and gearbox as the previous owner had fitted a Datsun 1200 engine and auto box! It was shipped with enough spares to nearly build a new car!

Another way to look at carrying spares is it reduces the luggage space so SWMBO can’t buy more new clothes esp on a 2 week club trip to Tassie Oh and I didn’t need any of the spares so a win/win.

I wouldn't buy PRC today but it was 15 years ago, when the PRC weren't the piranha's of the world & poor world citizens they are today!