Peter Truman

Yep the existing back window was moved forward it was an official Aus Standard product of the early 50’s before They sold out to AMI (Australian Motor Industries) around 58 I think who assembled CKD Triumph cars

Definatley a rrrremote!

I assume as a Lotus it would be a Ford box so could that modified remote. Be used with a type 9 box

Re the catch’s those bolt heads appear to be resistance welded and that process is a professional job, that’s why I question why and what car! Re lightening yep highly probable just wondered if a Lotus owner. Would know

These Michelotti bonnet catch's are on ebay, one appears to have bracket rivetted to it for the aftermarket lock, but the way the bolts are welded to the catch it looks like the catch mounting is all on the inside of the wing as the bolts are welded to the catch and there is no ability to bolt through the wing, anyone seen these before and what car they were fitted to, of interest only! The second set of photos show a Stanpart Triumph small chassis remote gear linkage, which was by it's description fitted to a Lotus Elan, look at the lightening holes not only along the sides but also in the gear lever ball housing, do you reckon it was a Lotus modification or an owners attempt to reduce car weight. Oh, the ebay price for this Lotus remote is 180 quid, I know I mis-spelt Michelotti on the photo's, shit happens!!

No Herald Ute's made in Australia by AMI but Leyland Aus did make a land crab Morris 1800 ute, quite a decent load area, and very collectable nowadays I believe quite a few have been exported to the UK by collectors. No cars made in Aus anymore last Holden built was around 2 years ago, and the last model Holden Commodore and Ford Falcon Utes were big V8 beasts with lowered suspension, probably useless as trade vehicles, a club member had one of the last style Falcon ute's 5litre something with a turbo went like stink reckon it could shred a set of tyres in one good burn out. He sold it for more than he paid for it, there was one recently for sale that had been brought as an investment they wanted over $120k for it. Same member (around 45yrs old) has had his 2000 saloon since he was 16 it has a 2500 engine blue printer with triple Su's (Aus MD style) and it produces 180bhp at the wheels, it runs Corvette brakes, does eat clutch's tho!

Job well done good to start a new life with a good foundation, enjoy

Ahebron, the bottom eye fixing a good idea as all shocks irrespective of any shock adjustment screws can fit, no cut outs needed, might see if I can find a 50mm length of 100mm across flanges channel and bolt that onto the bottom plate, but then I'd have to buy longer threaded bar, if the channel presents itself I'll do it, bars cheap @ $5.

At the bottom I used a heavy duty spring washer and nut on the threaded bar, for safety I think I’ll drill a hole thro the protruding bar and put a D pin (split pin) thro it so it can’t unintentionally unscrew. After use I want to be able to strip it down to it’s seperate components for easy storage.

As you dismantle take photo’s it took me ages to work out where the thin 24inch coat hanger type wire that clips around the rear window guide was held with which bolt at the front. I wonder if anyone is reskinning a door could provide a photo for you

I know the Club Shop sells a Coil Over Spring Compressor SC001 cost 60quid, & it weighs 3Kg which could cost 80quid to send to Aus, plus our GST/Import tax so all up say 160quid or $300A, So I decided to make my own (DIY), 2 pieces of 175mm by 100mm by 13mm thick bar/plate steel cost $11.5, it took me 2 hrs with the drill press to drill the 7 holes, except the two big 38mm and 45 mm holes, one in each end plate, the 10mm metric threaded bar I had, but the 6 nuts cost $2. Ref the two big holes like Colin L I have access to an extensive machine shop (neighbour's gear manufacturer) cost for drilling the two big holes Nix, but I'll take a bottle of good SA red over & we'll drink it! So all up it cost me $13.5 and 2.5hrs of my time, no its not powder coated, but I will etch paint it & as it's kept in my garage and a tool chest it won't be susceptible to rust! As you can see I've used it to replace the perished bush's at the top & it's great and more importantly safe to use unlike the hook versions!! One job I have to do is modify the bottom plate to accept the GAZ adjustment knob, another reason why I made my own. The nuts are = to 5/8 UNF & I don't have a ratchet spanner that size, 9/16 and 3/4 Yes, so I think I'll treat myself to one.

I've just replaced the daughters Mk2 Spit rear slaves after checking the manuals etc with the correct 0.75in NOS Girlock originals, the seized ones I had fitted 20years ago were Vitesse 0.7in units as I had them as spares, If I remember correctly my research showed Mk1/2 were o.75, later Mk3 & 4 went smaller at 0.625 and 1500's back to bigger to 0.7in. So now i've rebuilt the Girlock 0.7's as there was no bore damage cleaned with meths and a dremmel round softish scour sponge type bush a couple of times up the bore, bores perfect, piston no rust then new seals and boots. Prefer tp keep the Girlock's rather than unknown aftermarket?

My 68 Vitesse Mk2 was a saloon but the front tub with incorporated windscreen was original and I was very surprised to find it didn't have the conv hood clamp anchor bolts fitted as std on all models, not even dimples as to where the clamps should fit! Must admit re Rivnuts I measured for their locations several times from measurements & template off another car to check, also trial fitted the conv hood frame before committing. Good Spit Mk1 to 3 windscreen frames can be found I picked one up here locally off fleabay for $20 absolutely perfect in every way no signs of rust anywhere, but there was a lot of sand from sandblasting in the inner part of the frame, took some getting out!

also make sure you don't slacken the bleed nipple to much that you can draw air in down the threads into the bleeding poly pipe, some people use plastercene or blue tack to seal the bleed nipple during bleeding. The biggest problem I have is keeping the bleed hose on the bleed nipple, gawd it makes a mess when it slips off!

Aren't the Alternator designations 15AC being non regulated, with separate regulator and 15ACR being regulated, with built in regulator. Pete if your asking me re the 4TR Regulator no it had an Australian Lucas unit similar to that used in Aus Holden's of the era, probably part of the local content necessary to get import duty credits with CKD assembled cars. I think they used to achieve around 30% local content rads/cooling, electrics, upolstery, glass, brakes etc.

Yep a friends PI had a separate regulator on the suspension turrent and when he replaced the alternator & regulator, he didn't realise about the different alternators ie built in regulator the result was the tacho read twice the old and actual engine revs, took ages to sort out?

I just can't believe people can be so stupid, WHY WHY would the PO weld the rad to the chassis, when for a little more work they could have made & welded the brackets on Uugh! The only possible cynical upside would be heat transfer from the rad! Good luck in sorting,

Have you thought about using larger steel Rivnuts in the windscreen frame, rather than cutting welding to fit anchor nuts. I used heavy duty Rivnuts on my Mk2 Vitesse saloon windscreen frame when I converted to a convertible.

I know were talking sparkplugs, mixture & run on, my 68 Vitesse Mk2 has run on for the 51 years I've owned it & how many miles I've driven to check the plug colour I'd hate to think. I used to stop the run on by stalling the engine in gear using the clutch! around 5 years ago I gave up and fitted a solenoid to de-pressure the inlet manifold etal later emission reduction practice, ie solenoid shuts when ignition switched on and vents to atmosphere when ignition is switched off, there's a small filter on the solenoid vent. I use the Lucas solenoid but would prefer the all metal Ford type, I'll eventually find one. The downside it's another thing to check when the engine won't start ie has the solenoid shut!

I must be the holiest person out the number of stitches I’ve had over the years working on my cars lucky my Dr lives close by.

my Trunnion Oiler with permanent hydraulic Coupling, oil can has a brass and steel pump not plastic, and uses Penrite brass compatible EP90 oil

Pete I've rebuilt a couple of engines and replaced the welsh plugs with the brass cup plugs, I would never use silicon, but after cleaning the plug seat just scraping a screw driver blade nothing more aggressive as I don't want to make the hole seat any bigger, then I've used a smear of Permatex Aviation gasket goo (brown black stinky stuff) to help the cup seal, never had a subsequent failure, Question for future reference right or wrong decision re using the old style Aviation gasket goo, irrespective I ain't taking them out again. Whilst I had the welsh plugs out I did a serious clean of the block cooling passages removing years of built up rust esp between the bores and with special attention to the rear of the block. I used a short length of old Bowden cable in a high speed Dremmel drill the cable unwinds at the end and thrasth's around loosening the brown deposits to dust which is hoovered out with a 1/2in pliable plastic irrigation pipe extension the head was off so access from the top was also possible. Yes the engine was out of the car.

It ain't a Triumph so there's no wood dash, but by gee it makes up for it with the timber overlay floor covering in the drivers cab area. Where's the sleeping accommodation I assume the table drops down to give a flat area, but it look a little short! Only experience I've had with camper HiAce was the wife's Canadian girlfriends son who fronted on our doorstep in the early 00's brought one which needed serious welding around the rear tailgate by my mate who restores classics, and at 3 monthly intervals over 18 months this Canadian lad returned from all over Aus for ongoing major vehicle surgery including an engine transplant, he sold it for twice what he paid for it to an English couple doing the round Aus tour! I gather HiAces never die! Back in Canada he still has a campervan some big classic Chevy thing that our son has used a couple of times to tour Canada with his family, and Yeh it's broken down a couple of times, and we get the trans Pacific call, Help "International Rescue".

Pete L think I've worked out what's wrong re Courier access, my membership was due early June & I haven't been notified so yes it accepts my login and says successful but I have no membership access? emailed Angie to sort out my payment

Whilst the rockets have finally blasted off, I still cannot access the latest courier No492 even after logging in and getting acknowledgement, clicking on No492 just sends me back to the log in menu repeatedly ie "ground hog day" over and over,