Peter Truman

I agree a very cheap charge by SKF for the work reqd, I'd buy a couple as spares..

Roger there must have been exceptions, I had a 66, 1200 Herald Conv from 67 to 70 that had a darkish burr pattern which was a perfect mirror image with a distinct line down the vertical centre line of the dash. Gee how I wish my current Mk2 Vitesse (1970 to current) had that dash, the Vitesse's dash is mediocre by comparison it's a light stain and no where near a mirror pattern, as you said a bean counters special!

just check the float chamber stays vertical ie the bolt holding it hasn't come loose or the nylon/plastic locating bush broken down. If either of these have occurred the float chamber can rotate to be near the exhaust manifold and cause vaporisation, yep it can happen!

Ref 1 man job, a fellow club member here does his Stag hardtop by himself using an electric winch and forward/reverse rail plus a traverse system mounted from the roof of his carport, it's the same equipment used in hospitals to pick up and move patients. He is lucky he runs a business installing same in hospitals and aged care facilities. I did an article for our Club Mag I'll see if I can find it. Found it and attached

My Mk2 Vitesse was an import in 74 (me when I returned to Aus) so has the UK strengthened chassis, ref Aus AMI CKD cars I believe the very early ones had the early Herald chassis switching to the stronger rear diff & shocker set up around 1960, any specific extra strengthening I'm not aware of and Toyota destroyed ALL AMI records late 70's. The chassis were shipped to Aus assembled, where all body parts were separate CKD and Jig assembled. I know GMH substantially strengthened the Commodore from it's European origins esp around the suspension turrants etc, my 82 Series 3 XJ6 Jag reqd extra reinforcing around the shocker mounts due to our country (dirt) roads, with less than 5yrs use, I had it 8yrs from 84 to 92, when a Semi wrote it off!!!.

Just received my May Courier 491 today and it has a pic & article of the clubs new aquisition the one off Vitesse Factory Coupe on the cover, here in Australia the Vitesse was never available and the somewhere between 20and 30 examples here were personnel imports, BUT AMI here in Melbourne in the early 60's produced a Herald 12/50 Coupe from CKD components which had the Vitesse 4 headlight bonnet fitted, a very attractive car, it didn't have the Vitesse extruded bumpers but similar chrome steel overlays, as all 12/50's it only had the 1147 engine but with twin 1.25in carbs. Not a lot were made. My own 68 Mk2 Vitesse has a AMI 12/50 Coupe bonnet fitted after my original was damaged here in 1976 in a shopping centre accident when some harrased mother backed into my wife, fortunately I found an AMI 12/50 Coupe bonnet in a local wreckers , no rust & straight. In retrospect I should have tried to get the Coupe roof as well, but I did subsequently get an AMI CKD rear convertible tub which I fitted so I suppose the old girls 50% Aussie CKD, the bulkhead, doors, valances, boot lid, and chassis are original UK fitment as are ALL the mechanicals. I believe Vitesse's were CKD assembled in New Zealand. Hope you find the attachments interesting.

Can we have a pic please, is this for a round or square tail Spit I always fancied a TR4 Surrey top arrangement

I've had my rivet gun since the mid 60's looks very similar to the Halford one and I use it at least weekly, only issue I have with some aftermarket rivets is the rivet stalk sometimes gets stuck in the gun after shearing off the rivet head, solution only needs another rivet to push it up and out. Some rivets which appear to have thinner stalks are OK & I keep one handy to release the thicker stuck rivet stalk, so presumably cheap PRC rivets. There again the fault could be fair wear n tear after 50 years, but I do service it strip it down and oil!

the mazda has an electric handbrake & I hate it every time you stop the engine you can hear the cable being tensioned up & streeetched the wife's X Type that we had 16 years had a conventional manual handbrake & I reckon I used it maybe a dozen times a year if parking on a slope, otherwise in the garage or angle parking P was quite adequate.

Daughter in laws VW Polo definitely doesn’t like brake and acc applied together at traffic lights it just bogs down and takes a few secs to clear the confusion at get up and go! How can you do wheelies that’s why I keep a Dolly Sprint! Brake on build revs up to 4500 and then drop the clutch, Whoopie! ESP on 5 year old tyres.

Colin I agree the lack of suitable photos has always stuffed my search's up. Club Postage costs couldn't be any worse than eBay international rates compared to the best suppliers who are substantially cheaper

I had a Series 3 XJ6 Jag in the early 80's with the electronic Oil Pressure Gauge, gauge was OK but I had problems with the sender unit, I had 3 units over 6 years I think water ingress or condensation was their failing, eventually the lads in our M&E Maintenance Dept found a suitable & reliable replacement, but don't ask me which one?

We've just got a new Mazda 3 because it has ALL the Bell's n Whistles on it, but the noise/vibration when you cross the roadside white line and the lane departure wheel tug directing you back annoy's the hell out of me!! You'll never be lonely it's always talking to you, Oh it doesn't like left foot braking, it's a No No to touch the brake and accelerator together, Beep Beep Beep, what the hell have I done now! One things great tho the fuel consumption 6.8l/100klm, vs our old Jags 12 to 14, running around town.

don't know any difference re bushing, but my Vitesse Mk2 from new had two nuts and bolts one for each bush mounting whereas my old Herald and daughters Mk2 Spitfire had one long bolt thro both bush's. I believe all/both bolts same dia.

Continuing on the Sprints fuel pump oil leak problem I mounted the pump using the studs instead of the original bolts, and blue hylomar on both surfaces let them get tacky dry and then fitted the pump. Went a 30klm drive no oil leak until I stopped in the garage turned the engine off then after around 1 min or so an oil run started from around the rear possibly mounting stud area and ran slightly/dribbled for around 5 min, I had also tapped and plugged the little breather hole in the back side of the mech pump. I'm getting to the point of giving up on the mech pump, fitting a blanking plate and converting to an ECCO electric pump. Any ideas why it only leaks after turning the engine off not when running, I'm pretty sure that I achieved a seal on the pump/block mounting, could the oil be coming down the bolt/stud thread in the block, but why does it only leak after the engine is turned off? The sump/engine breaths/bleeds off to the carbs and carbon canister so it shouldn't build up any pressure. Any ideas from the brains trust!

A member of our club here in Melb is "Mr Dent" remover and hat he achieves is just short of marvellous I'd give them (your local equivalent) a try also relatively cheap.

sorry we won't OWN that one. Reported the other day on the news here Chris Hemsworth is starring in a new film to be made here a remake or continuation of Mad Max, & the world goes round n round!

Wasn't there a thread where someone was 3D printing one in the US, or was that the other site "Triumph Experience Forum" do I get demerit points for mentioning that site!

I run 2 LED flashers at the rear with incandescent at the front with a old bi-metallic flasher all OK, then I switched to an electronic flasher & it did funny things so disconnected power reverted to the old set up with LED rear only and all OK again, emergency Lucas 4 way set up also OK with mixed LED/incandescent too. Daughters Spit the same set up been that way since around 2004. I should go ALL LED's with LED electronic flasher can, on both normal and emergency and see if it all works OK,

I seem to remember the British armed forces overseas eg Malaysia etc the soldiers repatriated their vehicles back to the UK don’t know if it was like the US boys where they could/would always find space on a returning cargo plane to achieve this.

Nigel was the Rover SD1, 6 cylinder 2.6 the same as used in the 73/76 Australian 6 cylinder Leyland P76. I had one as a Co car in July 74 it went very well. I think it was used in the Tasman or Kimberly before that they were Land crab derivatives.

Cliff just seen an old type adjuster on ebay item No. 224458259651 6.95 GBP if you still need

Colin another possible source of the external pronged circlip is from some old UJ's I found a couple spare units in my box of circlips where I put the old UJ circlips, keep them if I have to adjust the UJ bearing float. The one's I have appear to be the same dia as the master cylinder ones.

You can get different length Helicoil/Recol's I've used the shortest to refurb a couple of the bolt holes in the hinges on my Vitesse.

you forgot the Exhaust!