Peter Truman

As you dismantle take photo’s it took me ages to work out where the thin 24inch coat hanger type wire that clips around the rear window guide was held with which bolt at the front. I wonder if anyone is reskinning a door could provide a photo for you

I know the Club Shop sells a Coil Over Spring Compressor SC001 cost 60quid, & it weighs 3Kg which could cost 80quid to send to Aus, plus our GST/Import tax so all up say 160quid or $300A, So I decided to make my own (DIY), 2 pieces of 175mm by 100mm by 13mm thick bar/plate steel cost $11.5, it took me 2 hrs with the drill press to drill the 7 holes, except the two big 38mm and 45 mm holes, one in each end plate, the 10mm metric threaded bar I had, but the 6 nuts cost $2. Ref the two big holes like Colin L I have access to an extensive machine shop (neighbour's gear manufacturer) cost for drilling the two big holes Nix, but I'll take a bottle of good SA red over & we'll drink it! So all up it cost me $13.5 and 2.5hrs of my time, no its not powder coated, but I will etch paint it & as it's kept in my garage and a tool chest it won't be susceptible to rust! As you can see I've used it to replace the perished bush's at the top & it's great and more importantly safe to use unlike the hook versions!! One job I have to do is modify the bottom plate to accept the GAZ adjustment knob, another reason why I made my own. The nuts are = to 5/8 UNF & I don't have a ratchet spanner that size, 9/16 and 3/4 Yes, so I think I'll treat myself to one.

I've just replaced the daughters Mk2 Spit rear slaves after checking the manuals etc with the correct 0.75in NOS Girlock originals, the seized ones I had fitted 20years ago were Vitesse 0.7in units as I had them as spares, If I remember correctly my research showed Mk1/2 were o.75, later Mk3 & 4 went smaller at 0.625 and 1500's back to bigger to 0.7in. So now i've rebuilt the Girlock 0.7's as there was no bore damage cleaned with meths and a dremmel round softish scour sponge type bush a couple of times up the bore, bores perfect, piston no rust then new seals and boots. Prefer tp keep the Girlock's rather than unknown aftermarket?

My 68 Vitesse Mk2 was a saloon but the front tub with incorporated windscreen was original and I was very surprised to find it didn't have the conv hood clamp anchor bolts fitted as std on all models, not even dimples as to where the clamps should fit! Must admit re Rivnuts I measured for their locations several times from measurements & template off another car to check, also trial fitted the conv hood frame before committing. Good Spit Mk1 to 3 windscreen frames can be found I picked one up here locally off fleabay for $20 absolutely perfect in every way no signs of rust anywhere, but there was a lot of sand from sandblasting in the inner part of the frame, took some getting out!

also make sure you don't slacken the bleed nipple to much that you can draw air in down the threads into the bleeding poly pipe, some people use plastercene or blue tack to seal the bleed nipple during bleeding. The biggest problem I have is keeping the bleed hose on the bleed nipple, gawd it makes a mess when it slips off!

Aren't the Alternator designations 15AC being non regulated, with separate regulator and 15ACR being regulated, with built in regulator. Pete if your asking me re the 4TR Regulator no it had an Australian Lucas unit similar to that used in Aus Holden's of the era, probably part of the local content necessary to get import duty credits with CKD assembled cars. I think they used to achieve around 30% local content rads/cooling, electrics, upolstery, glass, brakes etc.

Yep a friends PI had a separate regulator on the suspension turrent and when he replaced the alternator & regulator, he didn't realise about the different alternators ie built in regulator the result was the tacho read twice the old and actual engine revs, took ages to sort out?

I just can't believe people can be so stupid, WHY WHY would the PO weld the rad to the chassis, when for a little more work they could have made & welded the brackets on Uugh! The only possible cynical upside would be heat transfer from the rad! Good luck in sorting,

Have you thought about using larger steel Rivnuts in the windscreen frame, rather than cutting welding to fit anchor nuts. I used heavy duty Rivnuts on my Mk2 Vitesse saloon windscreen frame when I converted to a convertible.

I know were talking sparkplugs, mixture & run on, my 68 Vitesse Mk2 has run on for the 51 years I've owned it & how many miles I've driven to check the plug colour I'd hate to think. I used to stop the run on by stalling the engine in gear using the clutch! around 5 years ago I gave up and fitted a solenoid to de-pressure the inlet manifold etal later emission reduction practice, ie solenoid shuts when ignition switched on and vents to atmosphere when ignition is switched off, there's a small filter on the solenoid vent. I use the Lucas solenoid but would prefer the all metal Ford type, I'll eventually find one. The downside it's another thing to check when the engine won't start ie has the solenoid shut!

I must be the holiest person out the number of stitches I’ve had over the years working on my cars lucky my Dr lives close by.

my Trunnion Oiler with permanent hydraulic Coupling, oil can has a brass and steel pump not plastic, and uses Penrite brass compatible EP90 oil

Pete I've rebuilt a couple of engines and replaced the welsh plugs with the brass cup plugs, I would never use silicon, but after cleaning the plug seat just scraping a screw driver blade nothing more aggressive as I don't want to make the hole seat any bigger, then I've used a smear of Permatex Aviation gasket goo (brown black stinky stuff) to help the cup seal, never had a subsequent failure, Question for future reference right or wrong decision re using the old style Aviation gasket goo, irrespective I ain't taking them out again. Whilst I had the welsh plugs out I did a serious clean of the block cooling passages removing years of built up rust esp between the bores and with special attention to the rear of the block. I used a short length of old Bowden cable in a high speed Dremmel drill the cable unwinds at the end and thrasth's around loosening the brown deposits to dust which is hoovered out with a 1/2in pliable plastic irrigation pipe extension the head was off so access from the top was also possible. Yes the engine was out of the car.

It ain't a Triumph so there's no wood dash, but by gee it makes up for it with the timber overlay floor covering in the drivers cab area. Where's the sleeping accommodation I assume the table drops down to give a flat area, but it look a little short! Only experience I've had with camper HiAce was the wife's Canadian girlfriends son who fronted on our doorstep in the early 00's brought one which needed serious welding around the rear tailgate by my mate who restores classics, and at 3 monthly intervals over 18 months this Canadian lad returned from all over Aus for ongoing major vehicle surgery including an engine transplant, he sold it for twice what he paid for it to an English couple doing the round Aus tour! I gather HiAces never die! Back in Canada he still has a campervan some big classic Chevy thing that our son has used a couple of times to tour Canada with his family, and Yeh it's broken down a couple of times, and we get the trans Pacific call, Help "International Rescue".

Pete L think I've worked out what's wrong re Courier access, my membership was due early June & I haven't been notified so yes it accepts my login and says successful but I have no membership access? emailed Angie to sort out my payment

Whilst the rockets have finally blasted off, I still cannot access the latest courier No492 even after logging in and getting acknowledgement, clicking on No492 just sends me back to the log in menu repeatedly ie "ground hog day" over and over,

It's not damp from brake fluid up there on the pedal and support so the rust is presumably from an old brake master cylinder leak. There's no actual locking of the brake M/C piston and the push rod/ brake pedal, so the pedal can return to the off position when the brakes are released being spring aided but the master cylinder piston could be slow to respond or suffer from stiction, ie the piston and dome end of the push rod can separate. Oops meant CLUTCH not brake same mechanism

As Johny says there's a welsh/core plug immediately above the drain tap/plug. Attached is a photo of a 6 cylinder 2 lt engine stripped and with no head/manifolds that show the orientation. On your photo you can see the plug wet/weeping

Wasn't the Honda S600 sports car chain drive to, wonder what that was like to drive, & the UK Berkley, but I think that had a thumper of a British bike engine.

I've brought 2 replacement supposed Lucas 15ACR Alternators here in Aus off fleabay at separate times they have come in Bosch box's, 12v 34A Part No. 912447 6034-943, imported into the EU by RB (presumably Robt Bosch), one was fitted to a friends TR4 around 5 years ago and works well the other is my spare. I paid under $100Aus each, The other one I have as a spare is a South African made Prestolite A127 copy brought from a local motor factor, which was given/fitted to a friends PI and failed after 6 months, he gave it back to me and i purchased a new diode pack very cheap from an auto elect, it was then fitted to the Sprint for 6 months after it's original failed, I rebuilt that original Lucas unit with a new again cheap regulator pack & that rebuilt unit was refitted and has been in 4 years. Ironically the Sprint came from the chap who has the TR4, both Regulators failed within 3 months, of course my Sprint one failed after I'd given my then spare Bosch/Lucas 15ACR to the TR4 owner! Whilst I've brought new aftermarket replacement Alternators they have been used as temp fixtures whilst I've successfully rebuilt the original units with new Diode and Regulator packs very easily and cheaply.

My Sprint ran out of fuel but was still indicating half full thought it was ultra efficient the float some how got stuck not a drop in the tank Iwas doing 110kph on a freeway no indication of a problem it instantantly ran out. easy to check as float goes thro the top of tank why it stuck I never determined just replaced float and double checked it was free when refitted.

Doug not just the Master but The GRAND MASTER & were the blue rocket crew! you've got to acknowledge he deserves the lofty title.

Why is it that all posts whether by old or new members have a Newbie Rocket against their name even Pete Lewis? is it a problem with the Forum or my local issue. Secondly Bernard even tho the current Courier has been uploaded even after Logging in I can't access it. Logging in acknowledges me with a welcome when I click on the Courier it requests me to log in again, again & again. Is it my issue or a website problem? Regards Peter T Member 70692

Thanks for the info and photos helps a lot. Chris the holding down bolt must be right on the radius of the inner half of the wheel arch. I'll print the photo's out and look tomorrow, it's blowing a gale here tonight, 100kph winds will have to clean the pool out tomorrow first I'm 6'2 so the strap should be quite high in the slot but having regard for cars use should last eons

Thanks for that there the same belts as I have, does the belt pass thro the slot in the inner trim side panel and line up to go over the seat backrest without stressing the trim panel. 68vitesse you answered re trim panel as I was posting Thanks