Peter Truman

It's not damp from brake fluid up there on the pedal and support so the rust is presumably from an old brake master cylinder leak. There's no actual locking of the brake M/C piston and the push rod/ brake pedal, so the pedal can return to the off position when the brakes are released being spring aided but the master cylinder piston could be slow to respond or suffer from stiction, ie the piston and dome end of the push rod can separate. Oops meant CLUTCH not brake same mechanism

As Johny says there's a welsh/core plug immediately above the drain tap/plug. Attached is a photo of a 6 cylinder 2 lt engine stripped and with no head/manifolds that show the orientation. On your photo you can see the plug wet/weeping

Wasn't the Honda S600 sports car chain drive to, wonder what that was like to drive, & the UK Berkley, but I think that had a thumper of a British bike engine.

I've brought 2 replacement supposed Lucas 15ACR Alternators here in Aus off fleabay at separate times they have come in Bosch box's, 12v 34A Part No. 912447 6034-943, imported into the EU by RB (presumably Robt Bosch), one was fitted to a friends TR4 around 5 years ago and works well the other is my spare. I paid under $100Aus each, The other one I have as a spare is a South African made Prestolite A127 copy brought from a local motor factor, which was given/fitted to a friends PI and failed after 6 months, he gave it back to me and i purchased a new diode pack very cheap from an auto elect, it was then fitted to the Sprint for 6 months after it's original failed, I rebuilt that original Lucas unit with a new again cheap regulator pack & that rebuilt unit was refitted and has been in 4 years. Ironically the Sprint came from the chap who has the TR4, both Regulators failed within 3 months, of course my Sprint one failed after I'd given my then spare Bosch/Lucas 15ACR to the TR4 owner! Whilst I've brought new aftermarket replacement Alternators they have been used as temp fixtures whilst I've successfully rebuilt the original units with new Diode and Regulator packs very easily and cheaply.

My Sprint ran out of fuel but was still indicating half full thought it was ultra efficient the float some how got stuck not a drop in the tank Iwas doing 110kph on a freeway no indication of a problem it instantantly ran out. easy to check as float goes thro the top of tank why it stuck I never determined just replaced float and double checked it was free when refitted.

Doug not just the Master but The GRAND MASTER & were the blue rocket crew! you've got to acknowledge he deserves the lofty title.

Why is it that all posts whether by old or new members have a Newbie Rocket against their name even Pete Lewis? is it a problem with the Forum or my local issue. Secondly Bernard even tho the current Courier has been uploaded even after Logging in I can't access it. Logging in acknowledges me with a welcome when I click on the Courier it requests me to log in again, again & again. Is it my issue or a website problem? Regards Peter T Member 70692

Thanks for the info and photos helps a lot. Chris the holding down bolt must be right on the radius of the inner half of the wheel arch. I'll print the photo's out and look tomorrow, it's blowing a gale here tonight, 100kph winds will have to clean the pool out tomorrow first I'm 6'2 so the strap should be quite high in the slot but having regard for cars use should last eons

Thanks for that there the same belts as I have, does the belt pass thro the slot in the inner trim side panel and line up to go over the seat backrest without stressing the trim panel. 68vitesse you answered re trim panel as I was posting Thanks

trouble with satin it will show all the oily marks, whereas gloss will wipe clean a lot easier.

I know there's numerous posts re Seat Belts including comments re mounting the retraction module on the inner rear wheel arch, but no photos showing the installation, I think Chris A has fitted them. I'm interested re it's location on the wheel arch so as to keep the webbing straight & in line through the slot in the inner side trim panel & over the seat back. Also the belt only extracts so far which could be a problem with the limited seat travel backward in the convertible restricted by the larger B pillar. I should add that the retractable seat belts are Securon purchased from the club shop a couple of years ago. Any photo's of the installation would be greatly appreciated.

Roger the Little Grey Fergie is held with a lot of esteem here in Oz and are very valuable a few years ago they did a Rally from Geelong to I think Mildura quite a feat slow but steady. At a Victorian Triumph Concour around 15 years ago an old hand country engineer brought his rebuilt concour Fergie and put a sign in front of it calling it Triumphs F1 model little wheels at front big wheels at back.

so long since I cleaned both the Vitesse & Spitfire trunnion cap and thread I cannot fully remember Colin, but as I cleaned them all and have lubed frequently with brass acceptable oil it's not an issue, I also soldered the bottom steel trunnion sealing washer to the brass trunnion body so the oil doesn't leak out ie there's a reservoir of oil kept in the trunnion. I have a spare set of assembled front suspensions on the spares shelf sans backplates and discs, I looked at those, in fact I popped the trunnion bolt out and slid the trunnion out of the lower wishbone that's why I thought it was so easy! My error.

A Wanner grease gun full of oil should displace the hard grease and freely expell oil thro the top trunnion seal. But removal of the bottom trunnion bolt and unscrewing the trunnion and cleaning both the vertical link screw thread and trunnion isn't too hard, I've never bothered to jack the wheel up to take the load off. If oil is expelled thro the top seal I've always assumed it's lubed, mind you I give it a good flush. I oil the trunnions twice a year its messy but that's what paper towels & old newspapers are for.

Beautiful drilling job there Ed, did you cross drill the trunnion and fit a grease nipple, also plenty of copper grease on the tie rod bolt, mine are solid!!!

Simple 4in vice and DeWalt 14.5v Li-on drill, and very slow drilling with a lot of checking the alignment. Re sharp corners just got back to working on the cars after slicing the back of my hand around 2in long and requiring 7 stitch's, the small movable vice on the pedestal drill fell off the drill table & I missed catching it! PRC stuff has very sharp edges, of course it happened on a Saturday morning around 11AM medical centre closed fortunately our Dr. also friend lives near by and was just packing up to go to his working farm so he stitched me up, he's just out of a back brace himself after cracking a vertebra from falling off the farm house roof, did he get some grief from his collegues over that, I won't tell you what he called me when I fronted up at his front door with a dirty bloodied rag around my hand!

On a 3 rail box gear stick I did drill a hole down the centre very carefully it worked out OK the hardest part was profiling the lower outlet hole so the wire radiused out and didn’t get caught where the wire comes out of the stick. Re switch I just used a push on push off in the top of the gear knob ie min protrusion I suppose I drilled around 2.5in down the shaft.

I've just brought a set of Hel branded S/S braided hoses for the daughters Spit Mk2, to replace the 20year old Goodridge S/S ones which aren't Roadworthy compliant here in Aus, the S/S braiding needs to be plastic covered where its swaged at the ends, ADRules are worried about the S/S fatiguing where it flex's at the ends? I need to replace the old ones to get a local Roadworthy to transfer ownership into her name, complicated she was working for VW in Germany when we brought the car so it's all in my name. Interestingly I brought the Hel set locally, well ex Queensland, but only 3 hoses turned up, I queried why only 1 rear hose for a car with Independent rear suspension, answer was some owners only ask for 3 hoses, (Crap) but sir we do a 4 hose set too, I argued with them got the extra hose at cost and no postage costs, and their Customer Dept is reviewing their advertising! Even with the extra cost they were marginally cheaper than buying and shipping ex UK. Mind you the Hel product looks good, the S/S braiding has a plastic sleeving over it's whole length similar to the later Goodridge ones I got for the Vitesse around 8 years ago.

I refurbed the daughters Mk2 Spit plastic steering column cowls using black vinyl spray even in the Aus sun its still good after nearly 20 years. Re the switch panel wood effect, here in Aus Bunnings (Hardware superstore) used to have larger Formica/Laminex type swatch's for Laminae flooring finish's which were around 14in long 8in wide, there were some nice finish's in their range. The extra size swatch obviously very handy it was double sided laminate finish only no timber/planking backing. I had a set of steel cowl's but gave the turn lever one to a club friend for his TR4 rebuild.

Roger thanks for that info, obviously too much time on my hands? I'll take heed of what you advised and & will revert to the std Vitesse solenoid setup, but I'll now re access the battery in the boot set up I have, and consider how to refit the brake servo as per Pete L's Vit 6 set up ie the battery as per normal set up with servo mounted next to it but in line/orientation with the engine, I had moved the battery & mounted the servo transversely where the battery was. I step forward then back!!! to much time on my hands with another lock down!1

Gary thanks for that,& Pete I’ve now got 5 solenoids spare round ones sq ones and even sq with remote buttons it just seemed tidier to remove the solenoid as it was surplus. Its like all jobs they create more work had to remove the hi torque starter to access the spade terminal for the ignition wire to get to the starter bolts had to remove the transmission tunnel what a bummer, whilst I’m there I might heli coil the top starter bolt in the bell housing and fit a stud (threaded bar) should make life easier in fitting and removing the starter. There’s always something to keep you busy during lockdown

Can any one please advise what gauge the thick brown wire connecting to the starter solenoid of the Mk2 Vitesse, similarly the white red ignition wire to the same solenoid. Reason is I’ve bitten the bullet and connecting the High Torque Starter direct to the battery feed bypassing the original solenoid cause because I’m sick of catching my hand on it when fiddling around the carbs

I think I've described this before, I have fitted the later saloon, Spit, Dolly Dipping Rear View Mirror to my Mk2 Vitesse and daughters Mk2 Spitfire, It required a little work as you cannot get the ball out of the later dipping mirror without destroying that mirrors body & the Vitesse mirror ball is slightly smaller than the later dipping mirror's ball. I cut the taper off the later dipping mirror (pic1) leaving the ball insitu using a Dremmel cutting disc, then tapped the insitu steel ball in that mirror (pic4, it doesn't rotate easily very tightly held in the dipping mirror plastic body, next I cut the ball body with clip out of the old Vitesse mirror (pic3) and screwed that fitting onto the dipping mirror via the tapped hole in fixed ball of the dipping ball (pic2), then I simply reassembled the Vitesse ball clip to its repositioned body on the dipping mirror. I've done it 4 times now on our 2 cars, a friends Vitesse and another club members Mk 3 Spit, in all cases the original cars mirror stem was retained. End result a substantially larger and more attractive mirror, which is dippable too!

Out of curiosity did the Heralds main dash surround have holes already drilled for the Vitesse style two small gauges fuel and temp?

Sorry Colin we don’t appreciate the issues your damp wet climate causes you as our cars are garaged and seldom get taken out in the wet and definitely not salted slush I think I’ve only had to cut thro one bolt in 47 years and that was because a Sprint sub frame bolt lock nut seized it started then locked electric saw sorted that in 1 minute.