Peter Truman

Pete is the issue with reconditioned or new aftermarket calipers, I thought the issue was with new aftermarket calipers where the profile of the seal groove in the caliper body was different affecting the seal/piston operation.

I used the plastic type fitted before the mechanical pump but it was the one with right angled top outlet, it works well cheap and easily fitted , only issue I've found is the plastic pipe tends to neck with the petrol pipe clips, I use the sprung type of clip. often wondered if the necking was due to ethanol affecting the plastic. The filter has the advantage of two sized molded inlet and outlet pipe 1/4 and 5/16in you just cut the smaller off if using the 5/16in hose.

Colin my starter is fitted the other way round ie connections on the bottom but toward the block there was adequate clearance to fit cable eyelet and washer/nut even with my big hand. Re The flywheel and starter ring position on my Vitesse Mk2 is original and only has 19mm from the front face of the backplate to the front of the flywheel starter ring hence the need for a thinner (5.2mm) aluminium adapter plate, this resulted in the leading edge of the starter stationary gear being 17mm from the front of the backplate, ie 2mm clearance to the flywheel starter ring. The half thickness aluminium adapter plate was what Teglizer advised with the cheaper Isuzu style hi torque starter, if I’d used the normal 10mm thick spacer the stationary starter gear would have been around 7mm back from the face of the starter ring. Looking at your set up It looks like it would have been about the same BUT mine would have had the full thickness 10mm aluminium spacer fitted.

John thanks for the op explanation, always wondered re the pre-engaged description, the starter gear can be pushed out a significant distance so in reality did I need to have the alloy spacer reduced in thickness, having the starter set back might not have been a problem, any thoughts from the members? So no need to remove the starter in a month and check meshing, good I don't have to bugger around with the gearbox cover again, removing it made it easier to fit and tighten the starter mounting bolts single handed

OH&S wise where your head rests on the seat relative to the roll bar tube I'd think of fitting the foam noodle tubing for head protection. I agree with Peter H why did you go for the convertible initially, lets face it the Heralds saloon roof isn't that strong anyway it'll crush very easily.

The machinists comment was the alloy spacer being thin it was difficult to hold and kept coming loose causing issues with an uneven/ constant thickness ie took a lot of hands on supervision! Knowing the issues now I'll get another and do the daughters Spit, what I really must do is the Dolly Sprint but must research what Hi Torpoe starter to use as the specific ones designed for the Sprint are around $500 vs around $130 for the Spit/Vitesse.

I’ve just fitted an Isuzu Trooper 2600 (Aussie Holden Rideo) type high torque starter as per Teglizer directions and had to get the starter alloy spacer cut down to approx half thickness .205inch thick. I had it done in an ex-neighbour’s machine shop he told me to pay what I thought was fair as it cost a lot as it was difficult to hold the spacer to skim it down as it was it was too thin, I gave him $50. Like the suggestion previously it’s probably easier & cheaper to determine the thickness of spacer reqd and get it cut out of alloy plate. Too get adequate clearance I had to fit a thick steel spacer too. Mine a Vitesse Mk2 was 19mm from front of engine plate to front of the ring gear and with the starter at rest the geared drive is 17mm with spacers fitted, appears to work starter spins with no grinding noises. On mine the starter gear can actually spin out quite a distance how far the inertia lets it I don’t know. I was a little worried whilst I set it up to clear at stationary I did worry it would spin out too far and the rear of the starter gear would contact the starter ring so I’ll probably run it a month and remove the starter to see all’s OK with the starter gear and starter ring.

I think it was on this forum long ago the advice re putting a new felt seal in was to soak it in oil for some hrs then compress the felt over a period of days not just to get rid of excess oil but to attain the right felt thickness so you don’t have to keep adjusting the hub play as the seal compress’s now your making me think which way I’ve put the seals in a job for next week, like the rear drive shaft hub seals go in backwards so the excess grease can push past them

Whipper snappers I’m 76 in a month and like Iain I sometimes have to look at a calendar to check the weekday but the date nah forget that no hope that’s what my trusty 60 year old watch is for ! Fortunately my wife is extremely organised and puts everything on the calendar even when bills have to be paid and birthdays except hers never forgotten that. Oh and I remember our anniversary by the fact it’s the day in the early/mid 60’s my Sprite had to be roadworthied, funny how your mind works. A COVID 4 month lock down really upset the date/time issue

A fellow clubmate here in Aus has a ring of LED's around his outer dipped beam lens on his beautiful and fast Stag, effective but looks horrible!

Don’t think dads 1973, 164 had the dipped beam driving light function! My son brought a 3yr old Mits ASX ex Govt which always had its dipped beam lights on when ignition switched on we assumed it was a Gov’t requested mod but when he put it in for its first service they replaced under warranty the defective light switch/controller now no driving lights on!

Another Triumph inconsistency my 68 Mk2 which I’ve owned 50 of it’s 52 years has the throttle lever spring and anchor rod items 9 & 10. the bar/rod has a Z bend in it so the spring tension can be adjusted by tightening the bends in the Z. Without this extra spring installed the throttle cable nipple at the pedal on my Vitebsk can be dislodged ie disconnected quite easily.

I’m the second owner of my Mk2 Vitesse if you exclude the Triumph garages where I assume it was a demo, or traded in, the previous private owner to me was the Marquis of Zetland estate, where it was a year fill in vehicle for his young lordship till his MGB GT arrived obviously they had NO Class!

Correctly if I'm wrong but we seem to be concentrating on the pedal and cable restraint, when I undo the carb throttle cable lever at the rear carb the nipple always falls out of the pedal & won't stay in there (no clip) until I refit the throttle lever return spring items 9 &10 on the Kipping pic, the individual carb return springs aren't strong enough to keep the cable tension tight. So does your arrangement include the throttle lever return spring and retaining rod (coat hanger type rod) that clips under the sump flange behind the starter motor. when I refit this it keeps pressure/tension on the cable and the cable nipple on the throttle pedal is held securely in position. It's just my thought to ensure the cable is held tight & the nipple doesn't fall out of the pedal.

Pete thanks for the thorough easy to understand explanation, why do some Strombergs use a spring and others a bolt on heavier weighted annulus on the piston, but not both. Ref your comment re use engine oil I've always used auto trans as the engine oil looked a little heavy compared to the Penrite special SU dashpot oil. I need a couple of springs for my Spit 1500 dual 150CD carb conversion, who has the largest range & any idea which spring to start with, I currently have the extra weighted pistons.

Dwarf, Swarf what the Heck! bl++dy predictive text! Merry Christmas to All irrespective of persuasion, nationality, gender, religion, colour, politics, and all variations thereof, it is the season to be Merry! I hope you in the UK, and northern suburbs of Sydney cope with the isolation, Living in Melbourne been there and done that for 4 months continuous, a real bummer! My Triumphs have done less than 100klm this year. Re diff plug insitu, when I pulled my diff down I found the planet gears brass hemi-spherical shims had sheared and only half the shim was still there, all still working OK, I did replace the shims with like.

Ref diff drain plug surely it can be done insitu as the dwarf will drop down and anything that remains in the diff can be flushed out thro the new drain hole and a magnetic plug will catch anything that there could be there!

In the 60’s we lived on the NY moors and I believe there were adders which were moderately poisonious but not lethal to us humans only small animals I never saw one!

Knew that'd get a response from Ahebron hadn't realised they were such a big problem over there in NZ, the ring tails are very small kitten sized, but the normal possum can be quite big but still protected here, the Leadbeaters Possum is the Victorian Animinal Emblem. We've had them in the roof a couple of times "Peter the Possum Man" catch's them and moves them onto a new area supposedly a fair distance away BUT ??? We had a Tassie variation one time and also a white albino which ended up at Melb Zoo, not saying anything in case!

The PO did my Dolly Sprint with a similar product it looks great but I’ve found the extra thickness of the resin in the instrument holes and esp the cubby door which has extra build up on the aperature and door edges caused fouling and required some sanding of the edges to make for a good fit

Colin not so easy when i did a friends Spit 1500 in a farm shed by taking only the front off to get the diff rebuilt, job was logical and progressed well until I looked over my shoulder to see a Copper Head snake curled up around a meter away, I was lying on my back under a mini hoist (tyre repairers hoist), I tell you I cleared out very quickly for a then 70 year old! Copper Heads are extremely poisonous & in Indy's words "I hate Snakes". The shed was home to a couple of small ring tail possums & the snake probably fancied them, Possums are protected in Aus but Ahebron is from NZ where there hated and I believe they hunt them! When I put the diff together I had loud music on, snakes hate noise!

Whilst rebuilding a 1500 engine recently I replaced the shaft and all rockers because the originals were scored, I replaced with std from Paddocks bushed were available but the annual mileage of a classic is limited so std will last forever! Eons (79) ago I had 6 potter (76, 2500 TC Mk2) rocker ie seize due to the locating countersunk Phillips head grub screw coming out but it didn’t fall down the pushrod holes thankfully.

Non Member thanks for the explanation I’l have to digest. Someone might correct me but the single speed mod to twin speed I suggested for the square motor I think results in the fast speed being faster. I’ll try and find the article and post, it might take me a little time.

I have looked at modifying the std Vitesse single speed square wiper motor to run slow and fast by modifying the internal wiring as per seperate web advice, but i want to try it on a spare motor and haven't got one yet to experiment on. I have a later GT6 style 3 position rotary switch for that purpose, this has also been modified for electric pump push contact use also. Alternatively 'non member' with your obvious electrical knowledge can you see are there issues in wiring in the Quascar AS8093 variable speed controller with the later Gt6 3 position rotary switch which is normally, off, slow (fixed speed), normal speed, with the Vitesse ground-side switched wipers. So that the 3 position switch becomes off, intermittent variable, normal or fixed speed, keeping the ground sided switching operation. Hoping you can help/advise any issues Regards PT

can't load the video gaphics on my computer but it all ran OK on the iPad