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Triumph 2000 camshaft query


Woody2000

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Hi question have a auto 2000 with road cam in it doesn’t run properly got a camshaft from Colin Lewis quick question if I take the head off etc what about camshaft bearings or would it be easier to change auto box to a manual to suit the engine (camshaft ) and leave it in the engine ???

just wondered what people thought ?? 

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Cranks are NOT different between auto and manual.

Highly unlikely the block has bearings in the cam way. None did from the factory and to fit them involved line-boring the block so rarely done without good reason.

taking the head and chain case off to change the cam will be less aggro than a manual gearbox conversion. Unless mk1 as cam needs to be withdrawn through the nose cone……

What actual cam is fitted now? Could be that carburettors and distributor need recalibrating to get the best from it?

Nick

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Hi Nick not sure what is fitted was told by the guy I got it off that the cam had been reprofiled it has su carbs fitted spoke to a old school rolling toad place and he said straight away to change the cam back to standard 

Quite happy taking the head off but not sure about the oil pump drive and dizzy asking around trying to get some help with it !!!!

it’s a 1973 mk 2 

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1 hour ago, Woody2000 said:

spoke to a old school rolling toad place and he said straight away to change the cam back to standard

Based on what? It’s been messed with so parts are mis-matched, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that it can’t be made to run well without delving into the bowels of the engine. Are you saying it didn’t originally have SUs? What was the Colin Lewis reference in your first post?

Worth doing a bit of research up front or you might do major work unnecessarily.

Nick

ps. Whereabouts are you?

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On 07/06/2022 at 20:25, Woody2000 said:

Hi question have a auto 2000 with road cam in it doesn’t run properly got a camshaft from Colin Lewis quick question if I take the head off etc what about camshaft bearings or would it be easier to change auto box to a manual to suit the engine (camshaft ) and leave it in the engine ???

just wondered what people thought ?? 

"it doesn't run properly"

How?  In what way is it improper?     One ' Colin Lewis' ground it?  Who he?    Have you asked him?       It's an "auto 2000" without an automatic gearbox???? 

So very many questions that you raise and don't answer!   Not even the age of the car.

A regrind would not be required just to fit SUs (Strombergs originally?).    Please, give us more details to work on!

John

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5 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

Based on what? It’s been messed with so parts are mis-matched, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that it can’t be made to run well without delving into the bowels of the engine. Are you saying it didn’t originally have SUs? What was the Colin Lewis reference in your first post?

Worth doing a bit of research up front or you might do major work unnecessarily.

Nick

ps. Whereabouts are you?

The Colon  comment was he supplied me with a good original camshaft I have had the head off already so quite happy to that point

I have tried and are trying to research this but at the end of the day I would like to just drive it without stalling and enjoy driving it which I don’t at the moment !!

I’m in Surrey 

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Sorry Colin comment !! 
he supplied me with a good second hand original camshaft 

it’s a 1973 mk 2 2000 auto all original but with twin 1.5 su carbs and a reprofiled cam in it idles ok put it into drive the revs drop and during driving you have to put it into Neutral then back into Drive 

hope this helps 

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10 hours ago, Steve P said:

Whereabouts in Surrey?.

Steve

 

10 hours ago, Steve P said:

Whereabouts in Surrey?.

Steve

Hi Steve I’m in Coulsdon CR5

 

 

Sorry Colin comment !! 
he supplied me with a good second hand original camshaft 

it’s a 1973 mk 2 2000 auto all original but with twin 1.5 su carbs and a reprofiled cam in it idles ok put it into drive the revs drop and during driving you have to put it into Neutral then back into Drive 

hope this helps 

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OK, you have a car that runs, AND another used camshaft that you want to fit?

It is far more likely that an engine that doesn't deliver power needs adjustment other than a new cam!       Ignition timing, fuelling  more likely problems.    If you have fitted the reground cam yourself, then and with respect, the timing of the cam shaft has to be suspect.     See accounts of "Equal Lift on Overlap" for a way of cam timing that doesn't involve protractors.   For a way to quickly and easily check  the cam timing, see: A new method of cam timing - Engine and Ancillary talk - Sideways Technologies (sideways-technologies.co.uk)

John

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John the car was taken to my mates garage and had electronic ign fitted new leads plugs pipes etc carbs adjusted ,rebuilt fuel pump ,tank drained etc it runs ok but the owner I got it from told me about the cam and the fact that it shouldn’t have been fitted but it was by a family member that owned the car before him .

I will have a read of the article you have mentioned and thanks 🙏 

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is this stalling work  from idle to D    or you loose power in D when driving 

doesnt seem a cam problem unless i=as john suggests its timed incorrectly 

and fitting electronic ign def needs the ignition timing correcting /checking its not a straight swap it need adjusting after fitting 

Pete

 

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Don`t take this the wrong way but, did your mates garage know what they were doing swapping to electronic and setting up afterwards, as Pete said the pickup would be different to the points setup so timing may be way out. Also carbs need to be setup properly.

Can`t  think why the previous owner said the cam shouldn,t have been fitted, other than it`s a race type which wouldn`t be good on an otherwise pretty standard engine.

Steve

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yes guys all was done correctly my mates a fully qualified Saab mechanic and loves old school motors and owns many the timing etc  he has had it twice at the garage , reset the carbs retimed the engine think it was about 16degrees BTDC not sure but it was way out as we didn’t know what the cam had been reprofiled too ie fast road race etc  Sorry Colin comment !! 
he supplied me with a good second hand original camshaft 

it’s a 1973 mk 2 2000 auto all original but with twin 1.5 su carbs and a reprofiled cam in it idles ok put it into drive the revs drop and during driving you have to put it into Neutral then back into Drive 

hope this helps 

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Yes Pete was timed up afterwards when you go from a nice level idle into drive the revs drop and can into a rambling stall unless you put in N and revs it a little then D to go again bit of a pain 

certainly doesn’t like traffic 😳

I haven’t had a old auto box in any classic I owned 

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Modern cars open the air bypass valve or throttle by quite some significant way when you put the autobox in D. And the idle speed still drops. If you have a classic auto and set the neutral idle to where you would on a manual then it WILL stall when you put it in drive. As Pete says, bump the idle up a little.

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Pete it’s more when I driving around because it’s a lumpy idle I think due to the cam when you stop with your foot on the brake it can enter a rambling stall but I will try the idle It sits at about 800 /900 rpm at idle so I need to increase this ?? Thanks 

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On 08/06/2022 at 20:01, Woody2000 said:

but not sure about the oil pump drive and dizzy

You may be the other side of this now, but just in case.

The basic procedures are set out in the ops manuals and Haynes so I won't repeat those. Add on points are: The 2000/2500 manual does not make it clear that the oil pump/dist. drive needs to be removed to extract the camshaft. Clearer in the GT6/Vitesse manual. Removing dist. and drive distrupts the ignition timing even if camshaft not being removed. So, put marks on body of dist. and its pedestal so it can be refitted in the same orientation. Note which direction rotor arm is pointing in (so that when all reassembled it points roughly the same). Undo pinch clamp and extract dist. Remove distributor pedestal (two bolts) noting the presence of gaskets and shims (if any, endfloat may beed to be checked on refitting). Note position of slot in face of the drive and that it is offset from centre. Extract drive (magnet on stick or similar). Refitting is reverse of above except that when dropping the drive back in it has to rotate to mesh with the teeth on the cam so has to be fed in 'wrong' to allow for it to be 'right' as it rotates into position.

That way there's a chance of preserving an approximate timing. But only if the crankshaft is not moved and that a new cam is going in in the same timing orientation (to the crank) as the one that's come out. So best to set engine to TDC on No.1 firing before starting the work and keep it there. But from what you've said there's no 100% evidence, thus far, that the camshaft timing is correct.

!

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a silly cam can give a rougher /lumpy idle  and can need a rise in the normal   and valve tappet clearances can be different to std,  all this adds up

but if the mixture and timing are ok theres no reason an auto or a wild cam should induce a stall it seems to me the basic settings are in some trouble 

just what cam is fitted  do you have ant data on it |??

where abouts are you ???

 

Pete

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15 hours ago, NonMember said:

Modern cars open the air bypass valve or throttle by quite some significant way when you put the autobox in D. And the idle speed still drops. If you have a classic auto and set the neutral idle to where you would on a manual then it WILL stall when you put it in drive. As Pete says, bump the idle up a little.

What Rob and Pete say.

It is true that cams used in old school autos have characteristics biased to low end torque and this does mean that they produce more torque at idle and are thus better able to handle the load from engaging drive without excessive rev drop/stalling.

There are ways around this. The simplest is to add ignition timing advance. They can take a lot of advance at idle. The limiting factors are that: a) you need to modify the distributor advance curve so this doesn’t carry through to excessive advance further up the rev range. b) there’s comes a point where you can’t start the engine as it try’s to run backwards….

Extra air valves are another route. Plenty of possibilities on older FI cars from 80s and 90s that could be triggered from a micro switch on the linkage.

Nick

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4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

a silly cam can give a rougher /lumpy idle  and can need a rise in the normal   and valve tappet clearances can be different to std,  all this adds up

but if the mixture and timing are ok theres no reason an auto or a wild cam should induce a stall it seems to me the basic settings are in some trouble 

just what cam is fitted  do you have ant data on it |??

where abouts are you ???

 

Pete

Hi Pete I have no no info on the cam at all 

I based in Coulsdon Surrey 

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