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Rear bearing


cliff.b

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18 minutes ago, johny said:

well yes its got to be the fit in the yoke that holds the cap stationary although I think if the cap isnt held against the end of the spider by the circlip it can move in and out (clicking sound) which wears the yoke hole....

Hmm, from looking quickly this evening there does appear to be a slight gap between the cap and the circlip so I will try fitting the slightly larger ones tomorrow and see what effect that has. 

If that takes up any slack, but the cap can still turn, what are the possible consequences?

 

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7 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

they take a lot of load from the suspension    

i dnt know if Loctite Bearing fit would survive is certainly gets a grip 

Pete

I was thinking that no matter how hard the UJ is worked, the force trying to turn the cap in its seating can't be greater than that needed to turn the spider in the bearing. 

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4 minutes ago, johny said:

Yes I think in some cases they can rust/stick in place and the problem goes away or they continue to rotate and eventually the yoke has to be changed...

So if that is the case, I either order one and change it now or run the risk that I might need to change it in the future🤔

I'm thinking that as long as I can get rid of any lateral movement I will fit it and see what happens. 

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I like the idea of loctite as thats exactly what its for and yes as you say there cant be much drive trying to turn the cap in the yoke. Its this last point that makes me think it must be radial movement of the cap that enlarges the yoke hole in the first place...

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2 hours ago, johny said:

I like the idea of loctite as thats exactly what its for and yes as you say there cant be much drive trying to turn the cap in the yoke. Its this last point that makes me think it must be radial movement of the cap that enlarges the yoke hole in the first place...

Thinking about it I dont think my theory holds water as the spider might push the caps out if theres play between them and the circlip but what could push them back in again repeatedly to cause the yoke hole enlargement problem🤔 

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Well, if the dismantling was surprisingly easy, the rebuild has been a pain, but mainly my fault. Several silly mistakes made, probably due to having too many other issues on my mind 🥺 But got there in the end and at least the UJ caps aren't moving now. Just completed a test drive with the hood up, so I could anything untoward. The original noise has gone, (although there might be a new one), nothing broke or fell off and the trunnion was just very slightly warm when I got back.

I will test further tomorrow 👍

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There is a bit of difference between sizes of replacement bearing cups, as much as 0.002 inch. Quite a few different makes around. Loctite may do the job if really clean and do use the thicker circlips or it will wear even more. You might have to replace the yokes.

In the long distant past I had parts nickel plated to take up wear.

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1 hour ago, johny said:

sounds like two steps forward😁How did you stop the cap rotating as I think I have one that does the same?

Yes, I had to dismantle stuff I had already done and then do it properly several times.

I used the slightly thicker circlips and a loctite equivalent on the caps. If it doesn't last I will know to get a new yoke.

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1 hour ago, Wagger said:

There is a bit of difference between sizes of replacement bearing cups, as much as 0.002 inch. Quite a few different makes around. Loctite may do the job if really clean and do use the thicker circlips or it will wear even more. You might have to replace the yokes.

In the long distant past I had parts nickel plated to take up wear.

That is what I have done so time will tell.

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I have just noticed something really strange.

Ever since I've had the car it has had rather a saggy rear end but since my test drive, it appears to now be riding at least an inch or two higher and there is far less negative camber at the rear wheels.

Wondering if it was something I have caused in some way but it's equal on both sides and I haven't touched the other one yet.

Could it be that the car has been up on axle stands for nearly a week with no weight on the spring?

Like the opposite of "settling" 🤔

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14 minutes ago, johny said:

A low back end does help handling up to a certain point though... 

Yes, it does seem to go round bends well.

Gives quite a few drivers of modern cars a shock when they decide to follow me at close distance 🤭

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2 hours ago, johny said:

gently squeeze the yoke in a vice

it would take a lot of effort to reform the yoke  you would need a big vice or a press  but this can upset the flatness of the flange if its the coupling end 

if on the shaft end    then  not ,  

think any idea of bending a yoke can mess with the concentricity  ,  a spread yoke is just as bad 

a tolerance of 0,003 to 0.005"  runout would be the std of the day 

Pete

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

it would take a lot of effort to reform the yoke  you would need a big vice or a press  but this can upset the flatness of the flange if its the coupling end 

if on the shaft end    then  not ,  

think any idea of bending a yoke can mess with the concentricity  ,  a spread yoke is just as bad 

a tolerance of 0,003 to 0.005"  runout would be the std of the day 

Pete

Probably for the best that I didn't think of doing that then lol

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1 hour ago, johny said:

hmmm I'll give it go if your loctite doesnt work out Cliff....

Might be worth trying to save the cost and effort of replacing a worn driveshaft but replacement yokes seem to be fairly inexpensive.

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