Spit 1500. Suitable heat insulation floor/tunnel/bulkhead

[chrishawley]

Ok. Engine overheating problems now solved due to new viscous coupling.

Problem now is driver overheating - generally hot in cabin area but left leg gets paticularly scorchy.

So, materials and methods:

• Materials: What could be recommended in terms of insulation materials for bulkhead/tunnel? So many adverts all with exorbitant claims. What's the practical experience with what works at a sensible price? For example, how would a couple of layers of Wickes finest 'bubble' type insulation stack up against sophisticated products at 6 times the price?

• Methods: Any tips on methods that work? I suspect that heat transmission from the exhaust down pipe is quite a contributor. Anything to be said for exhaust wrap? heat sheilds?

Open to any suggestions of the basis of engage brain before lightening wallet.

THNX

[Clive]

The biggest cause of heat is usually air leaks, either redundant holes in the bulkhead or the tunnel not sealing. That would be the first place to check. I use a glamous assistant with a bright light shing at teh bulkhead while I am inserted upside down in teh footwell, carpets out, looking for the light. Tunnel sealing requires the car to be driven. and feeling for the hot air. Try gaffa taping the joints too, may make a difference

If that is all sorted and it is still hot, there is no secret to heat insulation. I have used 10mm closed cell foam stuck inside my tunnel (I used tigerseal to stick it) and just carpet in the cabin., though any underfelt would help. 

I am sure there are some expensive options, but the key is trapped air, so foams etc are ideal. 

[Colin Lindsay]

I just used sheets of Dodomat, about £1 per sheet, and overlapped it round the edges of the gearbox tunnel which was itself sealed with foam. Seems like a cheap solution, no more draughts, the heat in the GT6 cabin dropped dramatically, and very quiet to drive.

[Stratton Jimmer]

42 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I just used sheets of Dodomat, about £1 per sheet,

I agree with Colin - Dodomat is excellent stuff.

[dougbgt6]

As Clive says seal the bulkhead and tunnel. Plus a lot of us have lined the inside of the tunnel with SilentCoat, keeps the heat and sound down, good stuff. I have it on the bulkhead and the floor, but it's surprisingly heavy, probably taken 5mph of my top speed!

Silent Coat Sound Deadening 2mm Compact 10 Sheets Pack Car Van Damping Mat 689789840283 | eBay

Doug

[Badwolf]

I have used SilentCoat around the car and (don't laugh at the back) am about to coat the inside of that abomination that also goes by the name of the gearbox tunnel cover. Might get it done for Christmas 🎄🎄⛄?? Colin, why did I read your tips for fibreglassing and insulating the bl**dy thing. Might even find a use for it on bonfire night!!!

[Pete Lewis]

to seal the undulations of the tunnel i bought a slab of foam from dunelm  and cut  quite  thick  strips to glue to the tunnel flanges  

cheap and effective  compresses easy do not buy any of the seal kits they are quite useless in most cases 

it doesnt have to be a closed cell for this you are stopping draughts and fumes 

and as clive says a patch of gaffer tape over unused baulkhead holes is easy  and replace any failed grommets 

make sure the flip seal bonnet to baulkhead is fitted as this will pass under bonnet heat down through the heater intake grille 

all these add up  ,small they may seem   but  important  to keep cooler and simple to fix 

Pete

 

[chrishawley]

Excellent advice all round. That gives me a 12-point plan to proceed systematically.

One further Q. What about the rubber boots on the master cylinders? Is there a handy wheeze for getting these to seal and stay in place?

[Badwolf]

I cheated with mine. The new versions that I bought were rubbish. Some sort of hard composite that wouldn't bend. So on Colin's advice I found the scruffy originals and gave them a rub down with black shoe polish. They came up a treat. I then slit them down the back to fit without having to mess around with the master cylinders, fitted them and put ties wraps around to hold them together. You could super glue them back together but why bother, tie wraps allow easier removal for future inspection.

[Pete Lewis]

3 hours ago, chrishawley said:

handy wheeze

patience works 

repro's  are best avoided they don't locate well 

Pete

[Unkel Kunkel]

Even thinking  this will be deemed heresy by some, but has anyone ever done away with these awful boot things which never very satisfactory   and fabricated metal box enclosures?
They could have removable gasket sealed  bolted tops for maintenance. 

[Pete Lewis]

im sure there were some devised on here a long time ago 

i guess you could make a seal from catswhisker type brush so it masks the pedal hole 

Pete